Saturday Walkers' Club

Time Out Country Walks near London Volume 1

Walk 7 : Garston to St Albans

River Ver, Moor Mill & Verulamium

Length 13.6 km (8.4 miles), 4 hours. For the whole outing, including trains, sights and meals, allow at least 7 hours.
OS Landranger Map No.166. Garston, map reference TL 118 999, is in Hertfordshire, 2.5 km north of Watford Junction.
OS Explorer Map No.182 (with the first 100 metres of the walk on map No. 173).
Toughness 1 out of 10.
Features

This walk, although not the most beautiful in the TO Book (some unkindly call it “Ghastly to St Albans!”) is surpris­ingly unspoilt by twentieth - and twenty-first - century civil­iz­ation, despite being close to London and squeezed between Watford and St Albans, the M1 and M25.

From Garston the walk is through Bricket Wood Common (which tends to be very muddy in winter and after periods of heavy rain) to Lord Knutsford’s park and manor at Munden, passing the impressively converted Nether-wylde Farm, to go along the River Colne and River Ver to Moor Mill Inn, a possible early lunchtime stop. The walk then follows Ver Valley Walk arrows almost all day, up through woods and blackberries, beside lakes, along the River Ver to a mobile home park and on into Park Street, where you find your second option for lunch. Then its onwards, at times beside the River Ver and over water meadows (which can be waterlogged), as you head into the Roman town of Verulamium (which derived its name from the river) and so to St Albans Cathedral and its cloisters; then either back into the Cathedral grounds, down to the Roman walls, to head for the Abbey Railway Station, or you walk through the old town to the Thameslink Railway Station.
Shortening the walk You could call a taxi from your lunchtime stop. You could also take a train from Park Street Railway Station back to Watford Junction. Or, near the end of the walk, as you approach St Albans, you could head straight for St Albans Abbey Railway Station without sightseeing in St Albans.
History

Munden House is owned by Lord Knutsford.

Moor Mill , at Bricket Wood, built in 1762, was a working mill until 1939. A mill has stood on this site for over 1,000 years, known as Moremyll in Norman times. For 500 years it was under the control of the abbots of St Albans and was rebuilt in 1350. Its giant revolving waterwheel has recently been restored.

In its heyday, the River Ver once powered eleven water­wheels and sustained the Hertfordshire watercress industry. Steps are being taken to increase its flow once more.

The Catuvellauni tribe, in the Ver Valley, were defeated by Julius Caesar in 54BC. Boadicea destroyed Verul­amium in 61AD, while the Roman legions were in North Wales. In 209AD, the Roman Alban was beheaded for refusing to sacrifice to the Roman gods, on the orders of Geta Caesar, son of Emperor Severus, during the latter’s visit to Britain to put down a rebellion.

St Albans Abbey (tel: 01727-860780) and its monastic buildings were completed in 1088 with bricks from the Roman town (dismantled because it had become a hiding place for robber gangs). In 1381 its Great Gateway was besieged during the Peasants’ Revolt – it was later used to imprison the rioters. In 1455, during the War of the Roses, Henry V1 was wounded in the neck by an arrow and took refuge in the Abbey, while drunken Yorkists ransacked the town. The Abbey, now a Cathedral, is open daily until 5-45 pm: outside these hours you can enter for evensong at 5pm weekdays, 4 pm Saturdays and 6-30 pm on Sundays.
Saturday Walkers Club

Take the train nearest to 10 am from London Euston Station to Garston, changing at Watford Junction to platform 11. Journey time 32 minutes. Trains back from St Albans Abbey Railway Station to Euston via Watford Junction run about once an hour. There are also trains from St Albans Thameslink Railway Station to London Kings Cross Thameslink Station at least three times an hour.

The branch line between Watford Junction and St Albans Abbey is now open on Sundays, thus enabling the Sunday section of the SWC to do this walk on a Sunday.

Rail ticket: buy a day return from London terminals to St Albans (all stations).

This walk usually appears in the TO Book rota in mid-February each year. Being one of the Book’s shorter walks, it lends itself to a winter’s posting, although it makes for a pleasant outing at other times of the year.
Lunch

You have a choice of two places on this walk for your lunchtime stop. Just under half way into the walk, you can stop at the popular Moor Mill (tel. 01727 875557), part of the Beefeater chain of family pub-restaurants. Groups of more than 10 people should ‘phone ahead to book. Meals are served all day from 12 noon. The restaurant’s setting by a mill stream would be ideal – if it wasn’t situated almost underneath the M25 Motorway.

40 minutes further into the walk, and just over the halfway point, you come to the village of Park Street, which has two remaining pubs, one of which serves food. This is the Overdraught pub (tel: 01727-856030), an unpretentious hostelry which serves basic pub grub from 12 noon to 2 pm. 90 metres further along the road you come to the Falcon pub (tel: 01727-873208), a watering hole for beer drinkers.
Tea

The suggested tea place is Abigails (tel: 01727-856039), in the Village Arcade in the Cathedral precincts, which is open daily until 5pm.

An alternative is the Cathedral Cafeteria, just inside the Cathedral, which is open daily until 4-30 pm (4 pm on Sundays.

Lovers of fine ale might like to call in at the Ye Olde Fighting Cocks pub (tel: 017227-865830), below the Cathedral. It is one of several pubs which lays claim to being the oldest public house in England. This atmospheric pub serves a good range of real ales and guest ales, plus bar snacks, and meals all afternoon at weekends.
Travel by Train
  • Out: (not a train station)
  • Back: (not a train station)
Travel by Car

Start: Garston (Hertfordshire) Station is near : WD25 9QG [gmap]

Finish: St Albans Station is near : AL1 3TF [gmap]

Return to your car by train:

  • (park at the start) at 4pm
  • (park at the end) at 10am
OS Explorer Map

173 : London North [Amazon]

182 : St Albans & Hatfield [Amazon]
Revised

This walk was fully revised in : Apr-10.

Download the PDF (link above) for the revised instructions, but for the map, you'll still need the book.
Updates

Many changes - use the revised version [details]
Other Hertfordshire Walks Bow Brickhill to Woburn Sands, Bow Brickhill to Leighton Buzzard, Harlow Circular, Welwyn Circular, Baldock Circular, Watton-at-Stone Circular,

Walking Instructions 

[1] [Numbers refer to the map]

  1. [1] Coming off the train at Garston Railway Station, turn left off the platform down a tarmac path between fences, your direction 20°, with the railway track on your left-hand side.
  2. In 160 metres you come down to a car-road T-junction. Cross the road here by pedestrian traffic lights and turn right, your direction 85°. In 35 metres turn left on the road, Falcon Way, signposted as public bridleway no. 16, your direction 70°. Keep on this road, ignoring turn-offs.
  3. In 180 metres, when this road comes to an end, continue straight on. In 15 metres you go through a tunnel under the M1 Motorway. At the other end of the tunnel, take the tarmac fork up to your left, your direction 70°, steadily uphill.
  4. Ignore ways off and, in 400 metres, you pass the Old Fox pub on your left-hand side, and keep on the tarmac road. 50 metres beyond the pub, fork left on a signposted public footpath, your direction 10°.
  5. In 70 metres cross a gravel drive, keeping ahead past cottages on your left-hand side, and then go slightly to the right of a gated driveway. After a further 40 metres, you pass through a metal barrier to continue straight along a tarmac lane, with a thatched cottage and pond on your left-hand side.
  6. Some 45 metres beyond this cottage, pass through a wooden kissing gate into Bricket Wood Common (as marked on the OS map). [!] The route ahead for the next kilometre can be very muddy.
  7. In 70 metres, at a multiple junction, you have a choice of parallel paths – choose the one that looks the less muddy. Either keep ahead, to follow a series of yellow arrows on marker posts, or fork right to then immediately turn left to continue ahead, following a yellow arrow, your direction 20°. In 400 metres, at a path T-junction [2] – and in case of the right-hand path, by a four-armed footpath sign - [!] turn right, your direction 130°.
  8. In 180 metres, you go over a series of four car-wide wooden plank bridges. In 200 metres you come to a tarmac road, which you cross, to continue straight on, along a car-wide road marked “Munden. Strictly Private” (Bridle and footpath only), your direction 140°.
  9. In 40 metres you pass house no.18, ignoring a stile on your left-hand side, and go straight on past a wooden fieldgate and cattle grid on bridleway no.9, a car-wide road.
  10. In 300 metres ignore a wooden gate and footpath signpost to the right. In 50 metres fork left on a gravel car-wide road, which is signposted as a bridleway, your direction 100°.
  11. In 90 metres ignore a wooden kissing gate to your left. Then in 5 metres, go through a wooden gate (with a wooden fieldgate to its right-hand side) to go down a car-wide track, soon with Munden House visible on your right-hand side.
  12. In 180 metres, with a ford on your left-hand side, go over a wooden bridge with railings over the River Colne. On the other side, follow the path to the left, your direction 70°. This path is subject to flooding which may entail wading with your boots off, or climbing along the wooden fence on your right.
  13. In 150 metres you pass River Lodge on your right-hand side and go through a wooden gate. In 10 metres [3], go left on a bridleway, your direction 40°. In 40 metres you pass by a metal fieldgate and go through a trough to continue straight on. In a further 350 metres ignore a turn left to Little Munden Farm [4] and continue straight on.
  14. In 180 metres you pass under pylon cables. Ignore ways off and in 950 metres bear right on a new permissive bridleway, Bridleway 72, your direction 70°, initially uphill.
  15. In 250 metres you pass a private fieldgate entrance to the splendid Netherwylde Farm on your left-hand side, to continue straight on, your direction 50°. In a further 125 metres you pass a main gated entrance to this farm on your left-hand side. In another 30 metres, by a footpath signpost, at times half-hidden in the hedge [!] turn left, your direction 320°, with a hedge and tennis court on your left-hand side. In 60 metres go over a wooden bridge with railings over the river. In 6 metres [!] turn right along a potentially muddy footpath, due north.
  16. Some 150 metres along this winding path go over a two-plank bridge (with wooden railings on its left-hand side). At the other end of this little bridge, go right, your direction 40°, following the riverbank on your right-hand side and passing under mini pylon cables in 15 metres.
  17. In 170 metres you pass a pumping station on your right-hand side (situated on the other bank). In a further 20 metres [!] turn left, following the yellow arrow, with the field boundary on your right-hand side, your initial direction 330°.
  18. In 500 metres go over a stile or through the open gate on its right-hand side and follow the blue bridleway left along an earth farm road, your direction 300°. In 180 metres you come to a tarmac road, which you cross to enter the tarmac driveway signposted bridleway and Moor Mill, your direction 350°, a mill stream (River Ver) on your left.
  19. In 170 metres you come to Moor Mill Inn, your first lunchtime stop option. Retrace your steps for the 170 metres back to the car road T-junction. Here you turn right over the bridge, your direction 260°. 5 metres beyond the bridge, turn right on a signposted public footpath (the Ver Valley Walk), going through a wooden kissing gate, your direction 320°, uphill.
  20. In 350 metres cross the M25 Motorway on a footbridge. From the other end of the bridge, follow the arrows to the right, down alongside the motorway. In 35 metres [!] follow the arrow on a post to the left, your direction 350°, in a further 25 metres with the edge of the wood on your right-hand side.
  21. In 150 metres ignore a fork down to the right. In a further 500 metres [5] as the main path swings to the right, and by a notice on your left-hand side noting the site of Park Street Roman Villa, bear left to continue along the Ver Valley walk, with the field fence on your left-hand side, your direction 350°. Now continue ahead with the lake down below to your right, on a narrow, and at times muddy, path, following the field fence to your left. You come to a T-junction, where you turn left. At the next junction, [!] you turn right to descend with the path, down to the lakeside, to continue ahead with the lake on your right-hand side, often passing angler’s stations, your direction 110°.
  22. In 150 metres, just before the end of the lake on your right-hand side, turn left, cross a main path and a grassy triangular area to bear left (ahead) on the Ver Valley Walk. You are again between two lakes, your direction 320°, on a path of fine gravel.
  23. Ignore ways off. In 250 metres, your way rejoins the River Colne on your right-hand side. There, fork right, with the Ver Valley Walk path, hugging close to the river on your right-hand side, towards a closely packed town of mobile homes with aerials, your direction 50°.
  24. In 70 metres go over a plank bridge and follow the riverbank, ignoring other ways off. In 220 metres, you come to the A5183 road, with what used to be the Old Red Lion pub – now a self-drive centre - on the other side of the bridge.
  25. Turn left on this A road, your direction 340°. In 150 metres you pass the Overdraught pub at Park Street on your left-hand side (your second lunchtime food stop option). In 90 metres you come to the Falcon pub on your left-hand side (a lunchtime watering hole option). Here you turn right to go down Burydell Lane, opposite the pub, a tarmac road, your direction 45°. In 80 metres, you go over the River Ver on a brick bridge.
  26. In 110 metres, by Toll Cottage, follow the public footpath sign sharply to the left, your direction 340°, with allotment fences on your left-hand side. In 100 metres, at the end of the allotments, go through a metal kissing gate to follow the Ver Valley Walk arrow straight on, across open fields, your direction 350°, a line of thorn trees on your right-hand side. The way across the fields ahead can be water logged in winter.
  27. In 150 metres veer right to follow a footpath with a lightly wooded field boundary on your right-hand side, your direction 70°. In 100 metres ignore a fork off to the left to keep on, following the mini pylon poles. The simplest route, so as to keep dry, is to follow the mini pylon poles for about 200 metres, until you can clearly see the arch of the bridge in the far corner of the field, 200 metres away. And then to head north towards this bridge – although any not-so-wet route you can find towards the bridge will do.
  28. Go through a metal kissing gate (to the right of a wooden fieldgate) to cross the bridge, then turn right to follow the path with the river now on your right-hand side.
  29. In 35 metres, go under a bridge carrying the A414 road. In a further 25 metres, go through a metal kissing gate (with a metal fieldgate to its left). In 80 metres, ignore a metal kissing gate ahead to turn right over the river on a concrete bridge with scaffolding pole railings. Now follow the river walk arrow to the left, with the river on your left-hand side, your direction 30°.
  30. In 550 metres go through a metal kissing gate. In a further 80 metres you come to a tarmac road, with a wooden barn on your right-hand side. [7]. Go left on this road, Cottonmill Lane, your initial direction 330°.
  31. In 10 metres, you go over a brick bridge over water, and in a further 40 metres, you go over another brick bridge. In 45 metres ignore Butterfield Lane to your left and keep on up through the estate, your direction now 320°. In 270 metres, ignore Old Oak (road) to your right. You can now see the Cathedral ahead.
  32. In 300 metres, by house no.63, take the tarmac lane to your right [8], signposted Sopwell Mill Farm, your direction 70°. In 50 metres, fork left through barriers to go on a path parallel to yours, with a children’s playground to its left following the river walk arrow. At the end of the playground fence, go half left across the field, your direction 20°, towards the far left-hand corner of the playing field, 130 metres away. Once there, continue on the path to the next waymark post 30 metres ahead, by a concrete sluice, where you go left.
  33. In 35 metres you pass under a bridge and continue on a potentially muddy way, staying on the riverside path, ignoring all ways off, initially with allotments on your left.
  34. In 500 metres you come up to a tarmac road [9], by St Peters School. Go across the road and over the bridge, turn left down steps to continue on the river walk, with the river and allotments on your left-hand side, your direction 290°.
  35. In 200 metres go through gate posts and follow the path as it forks to the right, away from the river, your direction 290°, to rejoin the river in 130 metres. In a further 50 metres, go over the river on a metal bridge with scaffolding pole railings, to continue with the river now on your right-hand side.
  36. In 80 metres you come to the main road.
    • [!] Going left here will take you, in 200 metres, to St Albans Abbey Railway Station.
    But the suggested onward route is to go right, over a bridge, your direction 20°.
  37. In 30 metres, turn left, on a tarmac road, just before the Duke of Marlborough pub, your direction 300° initially. In a further 40 metres, you pass the left turn into Pondswick Close. Then in 45 metres, turn left onto Lady Spencer’s Grove, a footpath lined with horse chestnut trees, your direction 295°, gently uphill.
  38. In 140 metres, after passing the buildings of Abbey CE Primary School over to your right, the path comes out to an open green space where you turn right up the hill towards the Cathedral (or you could go straight on for 150 metres for a drink at the Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, a tea stop option). In 220 metres turn right along the modern outcrop of St Albans Abbey, in 7 metres coming to the entrance.
  39. After visiting the Cathedral, come out by this same door and turn left. Now follow the Cathedral buildings all the way round to the other side. Then go uphill away from the Cathedral, your direction 40°, passing Buon Amici and Lussmanns restaurants on your left-hand side. Opposite the latter, turn right uphill over a green for 50 metres towards the Village Arcade to come to the suggested tea place, Abigails, the last unit on the right in the arcade, ahead of you.
  40. Coming out of the tearoom, keep ahead (right) down the arcade. In 45 metres you come to the High Street, where you turn left. In 30 metres you come to the Clock Tower on the other side of the road. If you have the time, the Clock Tower is a good starting point for a wander through the alleys of the old town, starting with French Row to its left.

  41. For St Albans Thameslink Station

    1. To get to St Albans Thameslink Railway Station from the Clock Tower, go to the left of the Clock Tower, with the Fleur de Lys pub (now branded “The Snug”) on your left-hand side, to go up French Row, your direction 30°.
    2. In 100 metres you come out into Market Square. Continue ahead and in 75 metres go right through an archway (Sovereign Way), your direction 130°. In 40 metres cross the main road by pedestrian traffic lights nearby on your left to turn under the archway into the Maltings Shopping Centre.
    3. Swing right then left through this centre, and in 250 metres at its far end, turn left to exit the Maltings, onto a main road (opposite the Police Station). Turn right on the main road, downhill, your direction 105°.
    4. In 650 metres, as the road goes uphill, you go over the railway bridge. Before the bridge ends, go down the steps to your left, to St Albans Thameslink Railway Station. The platform (no.1) for trains to London is on this side.

  42. For St Albans Abbey Railway Station

      For the Abbey Railway Station, continue along the High Street. In 45 metres you come to the Thai Square Restaurant (formerly the Tudor Tavern) on your right-hand side. Go straight on and in 100 metres fork left on a tarmac road signposted “Cathedral West Gate”.
    1. In 110 metres go through the Great Gateway of the monastery. Carry on down Abbey Mill Lane. In 150 metres take the left fork, with a house on your left-hand side.
    2. In 80 metres turn right to pass the front door of the Ye Olde Fighting Cocks pub. The water is on your left-hand side. 30 metres beyond the pub, turn left over the bridge, into Verulamium Park, your direction 245°, with the ponds to your right. (25 metres beyond the bridge, turning right leads to the museum). The suggested route is straight on, along the edge of the pond on your right-hand side, to carry on beyond the ponds for 30 metres to the remains of the Roman Wall.
    3. Bear left along the line of the Roman Wall, your direction 185°. In 85 metres, cross a tarmac path to carry straight on, your direction now 120°, on a tarmac path. You pass a sports ground on your right-hand side.
    4. In 300 metres you come to a tarmac road, a larger leisure centre complex ahead, where you go left, your direction 100°. Follow the line of the road, but just inside the park railings.
    5. In 260 metres exit the park by the main road T-junction. Cross the road by pedestrian lights and turn right along it. The entrance road to St Albans Abbey Railway Station is in 35 metres on your left, under a yellow metal gate.