Time Out Country Walks near London Volume 2

Walk 27 : Berwick to Eastbourne

The long man of Wilmington and smugglers villages

Length

Standard walk 18.5km (11.6 miles), 5 hours 50 minutes. For the whole outing, including trains, sights and meals allow at least 12 hours.

Short walk via Folkington 10.3km (6.4 miles), 3 hours 15 minutes.

Short walk via Jevington 14.4km (9 miles), 4 hours 30 minutes.

Long walk 24.4km (15.3 miles), 7 hours, 40 minutes.

Maps

OS Landranger Map No.199, OS Explorer Map No.123. Berwick, map reference TQ524068 is in East Sussex, 12km north-west of Eastbourne.

Toughness

7 out of 10.

Features

This long but rewarding walk heads from inland Sussex to the coast taking in a variety of scenery along the way. From Berwick the walk cuts across to the peaceful birdwatcher’s paradise of Arlington Reservoir before crossing farmland towards Wilmington with the huge chalk figure of the ‘Long Man’ frequently in sight. From there the route continues to the historic smuggling village of Jevington for lunch. Then afterwards it ascends the South Downs to follow ridges of chalk grassland with views in all directions before heading towards the traditional seaside resort of Eastbourne and the possibility of extending the walk to the dramatic heights of Beachy Head.

Walk Options

It is possible to call a taxi from the Eight Bells pub in Jevington to Polegate to take a train back to London. Details of taxis are available from the pub.

You could shorten the walk by ending at Polegate in one of the following two ways, full directions for which appear at the end of the main text:

Short walk via Folkington From the road turnoff to Folkington as indicated in the main text, turn left passing St. Peter’s church. Follow footpaths to Wannock, then continue by road to Polegate.

Short walk via Jevington From the pub at Jevington follow the road for a little way before taking footpaths parallel to the road to Polegate. However, this route includes approximately 300 metres of road walking with no pavement, followed by sections of footpaths that are steep, narrow and slippery, including a rather treacherous section before reaching Wannock. However, this option directly passes Filching Manor and Motor Museum.

Lengthening the walk For full directions see the end of the main text.

Instead of leaving the South Downs Way on the bridleway leading down to Eastbourne YHA, you could continue to Beachy Head. Then you could follow the coast to descend to the outskirts of Eastbourne before turning inland to the train station. Note: it is possible to take a bus back to Eastbourne from Beachy Head. The bus stops outside the Beachy Head pub and takes you to the pier. (There are ordinary busses and a more expensive open top tour bus).

History

Arlington Reservoir was constructed in 1971 as demand for water increased. This 120-acre site is a designated site of Specific Scientific Interest and a local nature reserve.

On its 30th anniversary Bill Oddie opened a waymarked pathway around the perimeter called ‘The Osprey Nature Trail’.

Wilmington Here the famous 226 foot chalk figure of the Long Man of Wilmington towers above the village on the side of Windover Hill. It is unknown what this male figure carved into the chalk bearing two long staves represents, but theories include that he may be a fertility symbol, an ancient warrior, or just an 18th century folly.

Jevington In the 1780s this was a renowned area for smuggling organised by James Pettit, known as ‘Jevington Jigg’, the local innkeeper and leader of a local gang. His activities were well documented in reports and newspaper accounts at the time. He stored his contraband in the inn which is now the Eight Bells, the suggested lunch stop for this walk. In 1788 an attempt to arrest Jigg was made by a party of armed constables as he played cards inside the inn. He escaped by quickly donning women’s clothes, dashing outside, and feigning hysterics. The constables were too slow to react and he made his escape by horse. He shortly returned, but this time was captured after being discovered hiding in the loft. After various adventures he was convicted of horse stealing in 1799 and sentenced to 14 years at Botany Bay.

Filching Manor and the Motor Museum, Jevington (tel 01323 487838) on the short cut via Jevington houses a private collection of veteran and vintage cars. It is open to visitors from 10.30am to 4.30pm Thursday to Sunday from Easter to October. Admission is £3.50 for adults and £2.50 for concessions.

Beachy Head This famous landmark is the highest chalk sea cliff in Britain, rising164 metres above the English Channel at a location indicated by its distinctive red and white striped unmanned lighthouse.

Saturday Walkers Club

Take the train nearest to 9am from Victoria Station to Berwick, changing at Lewes (no need to change trains on Sunday). Journey time 1 hour 33 minutes. Trains back from Eastbourne are approximately twice hourly. Journey time 1 hour 35 minutes. Buy a day return ticket to Eastbourne.

By car

There is a car park (fee payable) at Berwick Station.

Lunch

The suggested lunchtime stop is the Eight Bells pub (tel 01323 484442) at Jevington, open all day every day. It serves hot and cold food from midday to 3pm Monday to Saturday, and midday to 9pm on Sunday. This is a very popular pub which gets quite crowded inside but has a reasonable sized garden. Should you be unlikely to arrive in time for lunch, or are Walk Options via Folkington, the welcoming Giants Rest pub (tel 01323 870207) at Wilmington 5km earlier serves lunch from midday to 2pm.

Picnic Although you might consider virtually anywhere along the route, the section of the Weald Way from Jevington as it bears right towards the coast offers panoramic views and has some wooden benches. Also earlier in the walk, note the turnoff uphill from the Weald Way between Wilmington and Jevington indicated in the text.

Tea

Standard walk The suggested tea place in Eastbourne is the Cafe Aroma (tel 01323 640263), open Monday to Saturday, open 10am to 4pm Monday to Thursday, and until 4.30pm Friday and Saturday, which serves coffee and afternoon teas. If you are too late for this there are many other restaurants and pubs in Eastbourne. Alternatives include the Deep Pan Pizza restaurant opposite the station (open until late daily) as well as cafes in the station. The Eight Bells pub listed under the lunch stop can also serve as a tea stop if you have lunch at the Giant’s Rest.

Short walks Mill Coffee House (tel 01323 483556) opposite Polegate station is open just until 3pm but there are a number of takeaway restaurants and the Dinkum pub.

Long walk Beachy Head (tel 01323 728060) at Beachy Head is open Monday to Saturday 11am to11pm, Sunday 11am to 10.30pm and sells tea, coffee and food. This offers a ‘family style’ menu.

Driving

Start: Berwick (Sussex) Station is near : BN26 6TA. [gmap]

Finish: Eastbourne Station is near : BN21 3QJ. [gmap]

Train Travel

London to Berwick (Sussex) | Eastbourne to London

Major Updates

Alternative to crossing the busy A27. Short walk option 27b no longer recommended (traffic) - use 27a. [details]

Warning

The text above was taken from the 2004 edition of the book, and may be a little out of date. Please check the updates for this walk.

Walking Instructions

For a map and detailed walking instruction, please see Time Out Country Walks near London Volume 2

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