This is a long but easy walk which explores the water meadows of the River Arun, with the South Downs as a dramatic backdrop.
Pulborough Circular
Length
Main Walk: 20½ km (12.7 miles). Four hours 50 minutes walking time. For the whole excursion including trains, sights and meals, allow at least 9 hours 30 minutes.
Main Walk, with short cut: 17 km (10.6 miles). Four hours walking time.
Short Walk, finishing in Amberley: 11¾ km (7.3 miles). Needs instructions from Book 1, Walk 32.
Long Walk, continuing to Arundel: 22½ km (14 miles). Needs instructions from Book 2, Walk 22.
OS Map
Explorer 121. Pulborough, map reference TQ043186, is in West Sussex, 18 km SW of Horsham.
Streetmaps
Toughness
3 out of 10 (2 out of 10 with short cut).
Features
The walk climbs gently at first to give a panoramic view of the South Downs from Pulborough Park. It joins the Wey-South Path to go past two medieval bridges across the canalised River Arun, which was part of an important transport link between London and the South Coast in the 19thC. The walk then goes across the extensive water meadows of Amberley Wild Brooks, an important area for bird-life and wetland plants, coming to the unspoilt village of Amberley for a pub lunch.
In the afternoon, you can choose between a long route through Parham Park with its Elizabethan manor house, and past the gliders at Parham Airfield, or a short cut along a quiet country lane. Both routes come to the RSPB Pulborough Brooks Nature Reserve at Wiggonholt, which has a tearoom in its Visitor Centre. There is the opportunity to spend some time bird-watching in the reserve before returning to Pulborough alongside the River Arun.
Note that the water meadows are deliberately flooded in winter and can be boggy at any time of the year after heavy rain. This walk should therefore only be attempted in relatively dry conditions.
Shortening the Walk
All the walk options have the same morning route to Amberley, so at lunchtime you can simply switch to one of the shorter options, or indeed just walk along the road to Amberley Station (about 1½ km).
If you want to end the Main Walk at Pulborough Brooks, there is an hourly bus to Pulborough Station on weekdays up to 5.15pm; the bus stop is on the main road by the entrance to the RSPB Nature Reserve.
Transport
There is a half-hourly service from London Victoria to Pulborough (hourly in the evening and all day on Sundays), taking about 1 hour 20 minutes.
If driving, Pulborough Station car park is free on Sundays and Bank Holidays.
Saturday Walkers Club
Take the train nearest to 09:40 from Victoria to Pulborough.
Train Times
Lunch
The recommended lunchtime pub is The Black Horse (01798-831700) in Amberley, which has an attractive garden and serves excellent home-cooked food. A little further on, The Sportsman (01798-831787) doesn't look quite so appealing but it also serves good food and has fine views over the water meadows.
There are also pubs along the route in Stopham and Cootham.
Tea
The RSPB Pulborough Brooks Visitor Centre (01798-875851) is conveniently situated for tea and there are lovely views of the water meadows from its terrace. Its tearoom stays open until about 4.30pm.
Stronger fare is available at the Oddfellows Arms (01798-873766) in Pulborough's Lower Street, although this is over 1 km from the station. The up-market Chequers Hotel on the A29 is nearer, but doesn't go out of its way to attract walkers. As a last resort you should be able to get a snack or a hot drink from one of the fast food outlets near the station.
Travel by Train
Out:
Back:
Travel by Car
Start:
Pulborough Station is near :
RH20 1AX
[gmap]
Click on any section heading to switch between detailed directions and an outline, or the heading above to do the same for all sections.
Pulborough to Stopham Bridge (2 km)
Turn left out of the station and take a footpath on the other side of a chain link fence up to a road. Turn left to cross the railway and follow the road round to the left, then continue ahead on a footpath across a field. At Park Farm join the Wey-South Path, initially along the edge of a wood and then down to cross the A283 by Stopham Bridge.
After leaving the station building, do not go down to the road but instead turn left towards the main car park. Immediately after passing a small bicycle shelter, veer right onto a public footpath on the other side of a chain link fence, heading NE, with the car park on your left and a service road to an industrial estate on your right.
In 300m this footpath comes out onto a minor road by a railway bridge. Turn left, crossing over the railway, and follow the road as it curves round to the left. Where the road bends to the right after 300m, take the public footpath on the left to climb gently through a field, heading W. There are soon fine views of the South Downs and Pulborough Brooks on your left.
In 350m the path passes a WW2 pillbox and heads into some trees, where it turns left and then right to meet the driveway to Park Farm. Cross over the driveway and head uphill on a wide path with wooden railings on the right.
You are now on the Wey-South Path, which you will follow all the way to Amberley. At the top of the rise go into the wood and turn left at the bridleway sign just inside it. Follow this attractive path gently downhill near the edge of the wood for just under 1 km, ignoring ways off, until it descends to meet the A283. Cross over this main road, take the footpath opposite and turn left on a minor road to go past The White Hart pub (with a fine view of the medieval Stopham Bridge1 on your right).
Stopham Bridge to Greatham Bridge (2¾ km)
Go past the White Hart pub on a minor road which curves round to the left. Just before it joins the A283, bear right onto a footpath which goes across fields and footbridges to a Pumping Station. Follow the path as it turns past buildings, crosses the railway and comes to the A29. Cross over and take a footpath just off to the right which leads into and through a narrow strip of woodland and eventually reaches a minor road. Turn left to reach Greatham Bridge.
Continue on the minor road as it climbs gently uphill and curves left to go parallel to the A283. Where the road swings left to join the main road, continue ahead through a small car parking area and go through a kissing gate to take the public footpath heading SE. This goes past a bend of the River Arun and then across a footbridge. On the other side, bear left to head SE across a potentially muddy field, leaving it via a kissing gate. Go up some steps, over a bridge across the River Rother and past a Pumping Station.
Immediately after going through a new wooden gate, turn right at a public footpath sign along a concrete track. Turn left in front of an industrial building onto a path with a fence on your right. Go through a metal fieldgate and turn right onto a broad track2. In 150m turn left at a public footpath sign and head for a bridge across the railway, then down to the A29.
Cross this busy road with great care and turn right along the pavement for 25m. Just past Priory Cottage, take the public footpath on the left and cross a stile into a small field. On the other side of the field, cross another stile to go down into a narrow strip of woodland, which follows the course of an old spur of the Wey & Arun Canal3. In just under 1 km this path comes out onto a minor road, where you turn left to reach the other medieval bridge on this walk, Greatham Bridge.
Greatham Bridge to Amberley (3½ km)
On the other side of the bridge, cross a stile on the right to go onto a riverside path. This soon leaves the riverbank and climbs to reach a farm track. Follow the footpath signs around farm buildings and eventually down into Amberley Wild Brooks. The route now goes south through these water meadows, initially on a grassy path and later farm tracks, to reach Amberley village. Turn left for The Black Horse.
After crossing the River Arun, go over a stile on the right and up to a path heading S along the riverbank (this would be a nice picnic spot). In 200m the path leaves the river and reaches a farm track, where you turn right. In 125m bear right at the top of the rise. In a further 200m, after passing Limekiln on your left, follow the track round to the left.
In 250m, having veered around some farm buildings, turn right onto a path in front of a wood. Follow this path around the wood, then down a slope to pass Hayles Barn. Go through a wooden fieldgate and turn left along a grassy path. Finally, go through a metal fieldgate and turn right, heading S. After all these twists and turns you are now in Amberley Wild Brooks.
For the next 2 km you simply follow an attractive path S through these water meadows. In about 1 km the track becomes wider (and potentially muddier) where it is used by farm vehicles. It then merges with another farm track from the left and you veer half-right; later it curves back to the left and you resume your original direction. Eventually the path climbs a short slope and comes out between houses onto a street in the very pretty village of Amberley. Turn left to reach The Black Horse pub in 125m.
For the Short Walk, go to §10.
For the Long Walk, continuing to Arundel, go to §11.
Amberley to West Lodges (2¾ km)
Head east out of the village on a minor road, passing The Sportsman pub. At the end of the houses, turn left onto a footpath which goes down through fields and past the old Rackham Mill to reach a wood. Turn right and go along the edge of the wood to emerge on Rackham Street by the Old School. Turn left and follow this past a road junction to the entrance to Parham Park.
If you want to explore the village before continuing the Main Walk, turn left out of the pub and then right at a road junction in 75m. St Michael's church is about 350m along this road, with Amberley Castle (now a luxury hotel) a little way further on.
To return, retrace your steps from the church but then turn left along a minor road after 200m. After the road curves to the right you pass the footpath where you came up from Amberley Wild Brooks. Go straight past The Black Horse to continue the walk.
Turn right on leaving the pub and then immediately right at the road junction to head E along a minor road. In 800m you pass The Sportsman pub on your left. In a further 500m, soon after the last house on the left (Whiteoaks), turn left off the road onto a public footpath. This goes half-right downhill across a large field, heading NE.
At the field boundary go through a hedge and across a ditch to reach the corner of another field. Cross a stile here and bear left along a path through a small wood. This emerges between a house and a disused outbuilding, Rackham Mill. After passing these the path heads N with a ditch on the right and views of the water meadows on the left.
In 250m the path crosses a brook on a footbridge and enters a wood. Turn right here at a three-armed footpath sign to go along a path just inside the wood. In 200m there is a short cut going uphill to the left, but it is more interesting to continue ahead. This path comes out onto a small open area, with sandstone rocks to the left and Rackham Old School on your right.
Go up to the road (Rackham Street) and turn left. In 150m continue ahead at a road junction, following the sign to Wiggonholt (this is where the short cut mentioned above rejoins the route). In a further 150m you come to a pair of lodges on your right, the entrance to Parham Park.
To take a short cut to Pulborough Brooks, go to §8.
West Lodges to Cootham (2 km)
Go through the gate on the right to enter the park and follow the driveway past a lake. At a T-junction, continue ahead on a grassy path which then merges with the main entrance to Parham House. Follow this out to the A283.
Turn right and go through a kissing gate to the left of the main gate to enter Parham Park. Continue E on the driveway, in 500m passing a lake (with a view of Parham House4 beyond) and later going alongside a stone wall.
Where the driveway comes to a T-junction, with private roads off to both sides, continue ahead (slightly to the right) along a grassy path, as indicated by the "Footpath to Cootham" sign. In 250m the path curves left to merge with the main entrance to the house, which is now behind you on your right. Follow this road E to leave Parham Park at Douglas's Lodge, and continue along the driveway5 to the junction with the A283. Just up ahead there is a footpath on the left leading onto Parham Airfield.
Cootham to Hurston Lane (1¾ km)
Take either of two footpaths on the left of the A283, leading across or round the edge of Parham Airfield. Continue along a grassy path which curves round to the left, then veers right through a small wood to Hurston Lane.
The first footpath on the left of the A283 goes across Parham Airfield, with views of the gliders taking off and landing. The alternative route at §6b is better if you want to detour into Cootham, or visit the Crown Inn.
Across Parham Airfield
Go up the footpath and over a stile onto an enclosed path. Follow this round to the left for 200m, along the edge of the airfield. At the end of the fence, turn right at a footpath signpost onto the airfield, aiming for the right-hand edge of a field of crops up ahead.
Head NE along the edge of the airfield for 750m. The right of way continues to the far edge of the field and then turns left, but in practice you can veer left onto a wide grassy path about 100m before that, heading for some railings.
Around Parham Airfield
Continue along the A283, passing Clay Lane. Unless you want to visit The Crown Inn up ahead, turn left at a footpath sign 100m before reaching it. Go along a lane and turn left again in front of some houses, then follow the lane round to the right. For the next 250m you go through an estate of (im)mobile homes. At the end, bear left to find a footpath sign indicating a path going into a strip of woodland. 50m along this path, fork left on a path going up to the airfield.
Strictly speaking, the right of way is along the main path (which can be muddy). This soon crosses a small brook and goes up a few steps to a three-armed footpath sign, where you would turn left. The path later recrosses the brook and comes out onto the edge of Parham Airfield. The right of way now continues around its perimeter, initially heading N and later curving slightly to the left.
If you took the left fork up to the airfield, bear right and stay close to its perimeter, so as not to interfere with gliders taking off or landing. In 350m bear left on a grassy path towards some railings.
Continue NW along the right-hand side of the railings (which are guarding a track used for exercising horses). The path curves gradually to the left but in about 400m veers right towards a strip of woodland. In 75m you go through a wooden gate and in a further 75m reach a minor road (Hurston Lane).
Hurston Lane to Pulborough Brooks (1¾ km)
Turn left onto the lane and then immediately fork right onto a bridleway. Follow this up to a house and all the way round its garden to the other side. Join its driveway which leads to the A283. Cross over and bear right onto a bridleway which crosses a minor road and goes into woodland. Keep right, staying close to a car park on the right, to come to the Visitor Centre at RSPB Pulborough Brooks.
Turn left onto the lane and then immediately fork right along a driveway at a bridleway sign, heading NW. In 600m ignore a footpath on your right and bear left with the path, with a large garden containing a long narrow pond coming into view on your left. At the end of the garden the path crosses a stream and turns sharply left to go back along its other side. In 125m you pass a wooden gate on your left leading to a house and bear right onto its driveway, heading W. In 400m this comes out onto the A283.
Cross the main road carefully and take the bridleway opposite (slightly to the right). This bears right to run parallel to the road for a short distance and then bends left to reach a minor road. Cross the road and continue ahead.
You should be able to see the overflow car park for the RSPB Pulborough Brooks Nature Reserve6 through the trees on your right; the Visitor Centre is about 300m further on. Stay on the main bridleway at first, but before it goes downhill on a sunken path, veer right at an RSPB sign. Follow this path out of the wood and into the main car park for the Visitor Centre. There is a side entrance to the tearoom on the left of the main building.
West Lodges to Pulborough Brooks (2 km)
Continue north on Rackham Street until it comes to a T-junction. Go straight ahead onto a bridleway into a wood and follow it round to the right. At a three-way path junction fork left onto a path which leads up to to the Visitor Centre at RSPB Pulborough Brooks.
Continue on the road, heading N. In 800m stay on the road as it bends to the right, ignoring a bridleway forking off to the left (note the unusual round house on your right here). Finally, after another 650m along this quiet road, you come to a T-junction. Cross over and go straight ahead onto a bridleway heading N into a wooded area, Wiggonholt Common7.
Follow this bridleway as it curves gently round to the right. 400m from the road, take the left fork at a three-armed footpath sign to climb uphill. In 200m the path emerges from the wood alongside the main car park. Turn left to reach the Visitor Centre for the RSPB Pulborough Brooks Nature Reserve6. There is a side entrance to the tearoom on the left of the main building.
Pulborough Brooks to Pulborough (4 km)
Go onto the Visitor Centre's access road but then immediately turn left onto a footpath which leads to Wiggonholt Church. Turn left onto a track going down to the RSPB reserve. Follow a public footpath across the reserve, leaving it in its north-west corner. Go down a track and across the water meadows to an embankment alongside the River Arun and turn right onto it. After crossing a footbridge over a stream, head across the meadows towards houses, then up a lane to the A283. Turn left onto the main road (or right if you want to visit the Oddfellows Arms). At a footpath sign on the right, go up steps and cross a field to reach a lane. Turn left to go past the Chequers Hotel, across the A29 and along a lane. Just before a bridge over the railway, turn left onto a path and retrace your steps to Pulborough Station.
If you are an RSPB member, or are prepared to pay the entrance fee, you can spend some time in the reserve. To resume the walk, pick up the public footpath which runs across the reserve, leaving it near Little Hanger hide, and pick up the the directions at [•] below.
To continue the walk without visiting the reserve, leave the Visitor Centre to join the access road leading out of the main car park. Almost immediately, however, turn left onto a public footpath (the continuation of the one you arrived on), heading N between hedges. The path soon reaches a more open area, then goes into a dip and climbs back up to the hamlet of Wiggonholt.
Just before a wooden fence in front of the small church8, turn left onto a car-wide track which goes past its lychgate and heads downhill. In 250m the track crosses the perimeter path around the RSPB reserve.
Cross a stile into the large field opposite and head for a point halfway along its right-hand edge. Go over a stile (or through a gate) into the next field and head NW towards its top left-hand corner. Go over another stile and turn half-left to go downhill on a car-wide track, leaving the RSPB reserve.
[•] In 100m the track out of the reserve curves to the right and comes to a potentially very muddy area, where you go over a stile by a gate to enter the water meadows. Turn half-left to head NW towards an embankment 200m away (you may have to detour around some boggy areas). Climb up the embankment and turn right along it, with the River Arun on your left.
Follow the path N as it meanders alongside the river. After 750m, when you can see a footbridge ahead on your left, drop down off the embankment to cross this bridge. On the other side, go over an embankment to find a pair of footpaths heading across the meadows. Take the left-hand one, heading N towards a row of houses on the outskirts of Pulborough.
This grassy path is the right of way, but you could also turn left and walk along the embankment as it curves round to the right. In 200m you would need to go down steps to join the footpath, to avoid ending up on the wrong side of a water channel.
After reaching a water channel and going alongside it for about 150m, the path climbs gently to reach a narrow lane. Continue uphill to the A283. If you want some refreshment before the return journey, the Oddfellows Arms is about 100m away to the right; otherwise turn left towards the station.
If you are in a hurry, you can reach the station directly by continuing along the A283, but the route given below is more interesting and not much longer.
Cross over the main road at some point. In 300m, go up a ramp (or steps) on your right to enter a field. Follow the tarmac path half-left up the hill and bear right at the top (with some fine views of the South Downs behind you) to reach a lane.
Turn left on the lane and go past the Chequers Hotel to the A29. Cross this busy road with great care and go straight ahead into Church Place (you can detour into the churchyard but St Mary's church itself is usually locked). In 250m, just before this minor road crosses the railway, turn left onto the footpath you started out on, retracing your steps to Pulborough Station.
Amberley to Amberley Station (3½ km)
Go into the centre of the village. As you head west along its main street, you are on the route of Volume 1, Walk 32 (Arundel to Amberley): follow its directions to the end of the walk.
Turn left out of The Black Horse and then right at a road junction in 75m. Continue past Old Place and The Pottery to reach St Michael's church. Now pick up the directions in Volume 1, Walk 32 (Arundel to Amberley) between points [13] & [14] and follow them to the end of the walk.
Briefly: The route continues past Amberley Castle on a footpath that heads W across the water meadows towards the River Arun, where it turns left. The final section follows the riverbank and reaches the B2139 at Houghton Bridge, near Amberley Station. For refreshment there is the Riverside Café and the Bridge Inn.
Amberley to Arundel Station (14¼ km)
Head south out of the village, across the B2139 and then steeply uphill on a minor road. After passing High Titten, you are on the route of Volume 2, Walk 22 (Amberley to Arundel): follow its directions to the end of the walk.
Turn left out of The Black Horse and continue for 300m down to the B2139. Cross over and take the minor road opposite going steeply uphill. In 400m you pass High Titten on the right and continue up past a house (Highdown) to reach some grain silos. Now pick up the directions in Volume 2, Walk 22 (Amberley to Arundel) at point [2] and follow them to the end of the walk.
Briefly: The route heads E along a farm track towards Rackham Hill, where it turns right onto a bridleway and eventually descends into the pretty village of Burpham. The final section is along the riverbank into Arundel. There are plenty of opportunities for refreshment in this attractive town before heading for the station.
There is an information panel nearby about Stopham Bridge. Like its neighbour at Pulborough, it carried traffic on a main A-road until quite recently, when a new bridge was constructed alongside.
This is the trackbed of an old railway line, which ran to Midhurst and Petersfield.
The Wey & Arun Canal was a strategic transport link between London and the South Coast for 50 years, until the spread of the railways heralded its decline in the mid-19thC. A Trust is restoring the canal and 2½ miles of waterway have been re-opened at Loxwood.
Parham House is a fine example of an Elizabethan manor house, with a Walled Garden and 18thC Pleasure Grounds. Close to the house, St Peter's church dates from the 12thC and has interesting box pews and Gothic revival features.
Soon after passing the lodge, there is an information panel about the history of the house and some of its more unusual owners, and its connection with a famous variety of apple.
The RSPB first bought land at Pulborough Brooks in 1989. It has restored the original wetland habitat by carefully controlling water levels in the meadows, which had become drier after engineering works to the river in the 1960s.
The RSPB has recently been buying land to the left of this path and some more routes through this attractive area may become open to the public.
Wiggonholt church (which is undedicated) has some original walls dating from around the 12thC.