Walk 29 : Ashdown Forest and Medway Valley

Ashdown Forest (elevated heathland) and the Upper Medway Valley. Walks start at either Ashurst (station) or Hartfield (car/bus)

Length	Main Walk (Ashurst to Hartfield): 18¼ km (11.3 miles). Four hours 30 minutes walking time. For the whole excursion including trains, buses, sights and meals, allow at least 9 hours 30 minutes. Ashdown Forest Walk (Hartfield Circular): 16 km (9.9 miles). Four hours walking time. Medway Valley Walk (short Ashurst Circular): 13¾ km (8.5 miles). Three hours 30 minutes walking time. Extended Main Walk (long Ashurst Circular): 24 km (14.9 miles). Six hours walking time.
OS Map	Explorer 135. Ashurst, map reference TQ507388, is on the East Sussex/Kent border, between East Grinstead and Tunbridge Wells.
Streetmaps
Toughness	5 out of 10 (2 out of 10 for the Medway Valley Walk).
Features	This is a pair of contrasting walks, one with a long but gentle climb up to the highest point on Ashdown Forest, the other a leisurely stroll in the upper Medway valley. The Main Walk combines the first half of the Medway Valley Walk with most of the Ashdown Forest Walk. Ashdown Forest is the only area of elevated heathland in the south-east of England. It is now rather isolated from the rail network, but it is a fine area for walking and well worth the extra effort of reaching it. The full circular walk from Ashurst is fairly long, but shorter options are possible using the bus service between East Grinstead and Tunbridge Wells. The route of the Ashdown Forest Walk includes many features that will be familiar to readers of AA Milne's Winnie-the-Pooh stories, not least the famous Pooh Bridge. The Medway valley is a different landscape and makes a contrasting addition to the Ashdown Forest Walk, or indeed a pleasant short walk in its own right. All the walk options take in the attractive Wealden village of Hartfield and go past Withyham church, which is well worth visiting. Some of the low-lying areas in the Medway valley may become flooded after very heavy rain, but the soil on Ashdown Forest drains well and this part of the walk should be less affected.
Shortening the Walk	You can shorten the Ashdown Forest Walk at the start by getting off the 291 bus at Withyham, rather than Hartfield (do this if you miss the connection and are an hour late). If you want to finish the walk after lunch at the Dorset Arms, you can catch the bus from outside the pub; you could also switch to the much shorter Medway Valley Walk. On the Main Walk, you can take various short cuts across Ashdown Forest if you have a map, but note that there is no public transport on the long stretch between Withyham and Hartfield.
Transport	There is an hourly service from London Bridge to Ashurst (Kent), taking 50 minutes (longer on Sundays, when you have to change at East Croydon and/or Oxted). For the variations which start or finish in Hartfield, Metrobus 291 runs from either East Grinstead or Tunbridge Wells, normally hourly but with a very limited service on Sundays. On weekdays East Grinstead has two trains an hour from London Victoria, Tunbridge Wells four an hour from Charing Cross; both journeys take about 1 hour. At the time of writing the last bus to East Grinstead leaves Hartfield at 7.30pm (but 4.15pm on Sundays, which may be too early for comfort). The last bus to Tunbridge Wells is about 1 hour earlier than these times. If driving, it is simpler to do one of the circular walks because there is no public transport between Ashurst and Hartfield. Ashurst Station has a small free car park, and there is roadside parking in Hartfield.
Saturday Walkers Club	Take the train nearest to 10:00 from London Bridge to Ashurst (Kent). For the Hartfield Circular Walk, take a train connecting with a 291 bus at East Grinstead or Tunbridge Wells around 11:30 (ie. leaving Victoria or Charing Cross respectively before 10:30). You could do the Medway Valley Walk as an afternoon walk, with a train leaving around noon.
Train Times
Lunch	There are no refreshment places on the long stretch from Withyham to Hartfield, except possibly for some ice-cream vans in the Ashdown Forest car parks. If you want a pub lunch, the only convenient option is to have an early stop at the Dorset Arms (01892-770278) in Withyham. This serves good home-cooked food and has some outdoor seating on a small green. It is less than 6 km into the walk (just over 3 km if starting from Hartfield). There are two pubs in Hartfield if you want lunch on the Medway Valley Walk: the Hay Waggon (01892-770252) and the Anchor Inn (01892-770424).
Tea	Pooh Corner (01892-770456) is a pleasant tea place if you get to Hartfield before it stops serving at 4.30pm. If not, the Anchor Inn is normally open all day. If you return via East Grinstead and would like some refreshment there, it is better to get off the bus in the High Street; the only tea place near the station is a Starbucks in Sainsbury's. There are plenty of refreshment places in Tunbridge Wells if you take the bus there. If finishing in Ashurst, note that there are no refreshment places in this village: a pub marked on some OS maps closed a long time ago.

Travel by Car	Start: Ashurst, Kent [gmap]
OS Explorer Map	135 : Ashdown Forest [Amazon]
Other The Weald (Kent) Walks	Balcombe (round walk), Balcombe to East Grinstead, Crowhurst to Battle, Wadhurst Circular, Stonegate Circular, Robertsbridge Circular, Pluckley Circular, Cowden to Eridge, Wadhurst via Bewl Water Circular, Frant to Tunbridge Wells, Balcombe Circular via Ardingly Reservoir, Forest Row Circular, Forest Row to Sheffield Park, Battle Circular, East Grinstead Circular, Cowden to Hever, Penshurst to Leigh, Buxted Circular,

Walking Instructions 

Walk Options

Click on any option to show the sections making up that route, or the heading above to show all sections.

Main Walk, Ashurst to Hartfield (18¼ km)

Ashdown Forest Walk (Hartfield Circular) (16 km)

Medway Valley Walk (short Ashurst Circular) (13¾ km)

Extended Main Walk (long Ashurst Circular) (24 km)

Walk Directions

Click on any section heading to switch between detailed directions and an outline, or the heading above to do the same for all sections.

For the Hartfield Circular Walk, start at §3.

Ashurst Station to the Medway Valley (2 km)

Turn right out of the station to join the Sussex Border Path, which goes up along the side of the valley, then descends. Where the path meets the Wealdway, turn right to go under the railway and down to the River Medway.

From the station's small car park do not take the obvious way out to the A264, but take the private road in the opposite direction, heading S, shown on the OS map as the Sussex Border Path. This lane winds uphill and curves to the right where a footpath joins from the left. After 200m along a level stretch, turn left and go through a wooden gate to the left of a metal fieldgate, to go up a wide grassy path between hedges.

At the top, turn right onto a wide track. This soon starts to go back downhill through trees, and later with fields sloping down to your right. After 500m you pass some derelict brick outbuildings on your left.

In another 150m, just after a short stretch through some trees, fork right at a prominent footpath sign to go down a wide grassy path (joining the Wealdway). At the bottom of the field go through a gate and under the railway. On the other side turn left into a meadow, with a loop of the River Medway ahead on your right.

Follow a faint path through the meadow as it curves gently to the right. Cross the River Grom on a footbridge and bear right to go across the next field, aiming for a metal gate on the far side if there is no path visible. Turn right here onto a concrete bridge to cross another of the River Medway's tributaries, the River Eridge.

Along the Medway Valley (2½ km)

The suggested route is to continue along the Wealdway to Summerford Farm and then turn left onto a minor road to cross the River Medway. If the meadows are waterlogged, however, take the alternative route along the Forest Way. The routes come together again at the old Withyham Station building; take the Forest Way from there up to its junction with the Wealdway and turn left.

After crossing the concrete bridge, you have a choice. The main route follows the Wealdway but if the meadows are waterlogged, take the alternative route in §2b along the Forest Way¹.

Route along the Wealdway

Go straight on across the meadow, following the overhead power cables. At the end of the meadow, cross the River Medway on a concrete bridge and bear left across a field.

Immediately after the bridge, there used to be a permissive path which went along the riverbank to the left for 800m before rejoining the public footpath. This alternative route is shown on the OS map but the path is overgrown and seems to have been abandoned.

On the far side of the field, ignore a stile in the hedge and bear left along the field edge, heading SW. In 450m you come to a loop of the River Medway. Keep ahead through a copse and cross a small footbridge, then go along the right-hand edge of some meadows for 700m.

The river meanders away on your left and eventually you come to a minor road opposite Summerford Farm. Turn left onto this road, crossing the river on a stone bridge. At the 30mph sign, unless you want to take a short cut to the pub, turn right onto the Forest Way.

Route along the Forest Way

Immediately after crossing the bridge over the River Eridge, turn left to go alongside the river for a short distance, then through a gap in the hedge. On the other side do not follow the river round to the left, but keep ahead (slightly to the left) on a path across the field towards some trees, heading S.

On reaching these, go over a stile, up some steps to the Forest Way and turn right. Follow the route of this old railway line for 1½ km. Eventually you come to the old Withyham Station building (now a private house) on your left and go across a minor road.

If you want to take a short cut to the pub in Withyham, do not take the Forest Way here but instead head south along the minor road through the village of Balls Green. In 700m turn right at the T-junction with the B2110. The Dorset Arms is 300m along this road. Continue the directions at [•] in §5.

For the recommended route, head W along the Forest Way for 750m, passing the occasional picnic table and going across two bridges over some streams. The turning off this long straight path is easy to miss. 75m after the second of these bridges, there is a gap in the trees on both sides. Turn left here and go over a stile into a meadow, rejoining the Wealdway.

To continue the walk, go to §4.

Hartfield to and along the Forest Way (2¼ km)

From the centre of the village, take a short loop round by the church, then cross the B2026 onto a bridleway heading north-west to the Forest Way. Turn right onto this track, passing back under the B2026. At a path junction with the Wealdway, turn right.

From the centre of the village, head E up Church Street, passing the Anchor Inn on your left. At the end of the tarmac surface, turn left under part of Lych Gate Cottage. Go along the left-hand side of the churchyard, exiting down steps onto a tarmac path past a school. At the end of the driveway turn left to return to the High Street.

Cross the road and take the bridleway opposite, with a sports field on your left. In 150m pass to the right of the Youth Centre and follow the path through a gate and downhill. After heading NW along the edge of two fields the path goes into trees. On the other side of a bridge turn sharp right and drop down to join the Forest Way¹ below, heading E.

In 300m the track goes under the B2026. Turn left on the other side and then in 20m turn right to resume your original direction, passing the old Hartfield Station building (now a private house) on your right.

Continue E on the Forest Way. The turning off this long straight path is easy to miss. After 800m ignore a path crossing, with a stile and footbridge over the River Medway on your left, but in a further 400m there is a gap in the trees on both sides. Turn right here and go over a stile into a meadow, joining the Wealdway.

The Forest Way to Withyham (¾ km)

Head south along the Wealdway towards Withyham, crossing the B2110 and taking the lane up towards the church.

Follow a faint grassy path S across the field for 400m. In the next field continue in much the same direction for another 250m, to meet the B2110 just to the right of Hewkins bridge.

Turn left onto the road, taking care as there is no pavement. On the other side of the narrow bridge, cross over and fork right up a lane signposted to the Church of St Michael and All Angels. In 75m you come to a junction of lanes, with the church up a small hill on your left.

If you are on the Medway Valley walk and do not want to visit Withyham's church or pub, go to §10.

To the Dorset Arms and back (¾ km)

Go up to the church and then round to the back of the churchyard. Take a path leading down to the B2110 and turn right for the Dorset Arms. Return along the road and bear left onto a lane around the base of the hill, or the same way if you want to visit the church after lunch.

Turn left at the path junction and take any of the paths on the left which lead up to the Church of St Michael and All Angels², which you can visit either before or after lunch.

From the church entrance, continue on a path which bends round to the far side of the churchyard. Leave through a wooden kissing gate and go down the slope to find a metal kissing gate leading back out to the B2110 (after lunch, you will return to this point). Turn right onto the road, crossing over carefully where the pavement continues on the other side. The path nips behind a hedge and goes past the village hall; where it emerges the Dorset Arms is ahead of you on the other side of the road.

[•] From the pub, return to the B2110 and turn left. Cross over carefully and go past the village hall, then cross back where the pavement continues on the other side.

If you did not visit the church before lunch and want to do so now, take the alternative route in §5b.

Direct route

Ignore a footpath sign on the left and continue along the pavement. Where it ends, bear left through a wooden gate with a sign for the Buckhurst Estate. Follow the track through some trees and round to the left past Rectory Cottage. At a junction of lanes, bear right to join the lane coming up from the B2110.

Church route

At a footpath sign, turn left up a few steps and go through a metal kissing gate in the hedge. Continue on a grassy path up the slope and through a wooden kissing gate into the churchyard. Follow a path round to the far side of the church to find its entrance.

After visiting the church, turn right and take any path down the hill to a junction of lanes. Go onto the lane coming up from the B2110 and turn left.

If you are doing the Medway Valley walk, go to §10.

Withyham to Five Hundred Acre Wood (3 km)

From the junction of lanes below the church take the main driveway heading south, still following the Wealdway. At Fisher's Gate, turn left to go around the property and into a wood. Follow the path round to the right across a small valley by Kovacs Lodge, then fork left onto a path into Five Hundred Acre Wood.

With an impressive house³ up on your left, take the “Private Drive” heading S, signposted as the Wealdway (which you now follow all the way to the top of Ashdown Forest). Stay on this lane, ignoring all ways off. After 1½ km go past a cattle grid. 200m later, where the way ahead to Fisher's Gate is blocked by a gate marked Private, cross a stile on the left to go along the edge of a field beside a fence.

Follow the path downhill, round to the right and over a stile as it goes into some trees. Where the path comes out at a junction, keep ahead and soon bear right at the next junction. After passing a house (Forest Place), fork right and stay on this tarmac lane as it bends right and goes downhill, ignoring forestry tracks ahead and to the left.

At the bottom continue W past Kovacs Lodge to go uphill on a rough track. In 250m a field appears on your right and the path curves to the left. 25m later fork left on a path into Five Hundred Acre Wood⁴.

Five Hundred Acre Wood to Gills Lap (4¼ km)

Continue to follow the Wealdway uphill through the wood and later across the open heathland of Ashdown Forest. Just before reaching the B2026, turn right onto the Vanguard Way, which leads to Gills Lap car park.

Keep to the main path, which climbs steadily through the wood. In 450m fork right, then in another 200m go over a path crossing and past a wooden gate to enter the Access Land of Ashdown Forest.

Continue SW on the main path through the wood, still climbing. In 600m, where open heathland finally appears up ahead on your right, fork right (still following the Wealdway signposts: the white-painted notches on the top of these posts indicate the direction). As you emerge there are fine views back across to your right.

Continue to follow the Wealdway signposts across the open heathland of Ashdown Forest for the next 2 km. Essentially you are following the main path, initially S and later curving gently to the right above a valley⁵. At one point the path narrows, goes through the edge of a clump of trees for a short distance and then merges with a wide track from the left. 100m after this, fork right in front of another large clump of trees, and take the left fork (virtually straight on) 100m later. You are now walking parallel to a road a little way off to your left (mostly hidden behind trees).

As you reach the highest point in this part of Ashdown Forest there are fine views ahead of the South Downs. Eventually your path approaches a road directly ahead of you, coming to a T-junction with a wide track 50m before reaching it. Turn right onto this track, leaving the Wealdway, to walk parallel to the road towards Gills Lap car park.

After 500m you could detour left to a viewpoint in the car park on the other side of the road, but there are no convenient paths over there so you have to return to this point.

Continue on the main track. After going downhill for 200m bear left as the path levels out. In 50m fork right in front of some gorse and continue up to the B2026. Cross the road to enter Gills Lap car park.

Gills Lap to Pooh Bridge (2¾ km)

Head north across a grassy area onto a ridge path which goes past Gills Lap Clump. After passing the Memorial the track descends and curves to the left, then veers right to meet a minor road. Cross over and bear left onto a track which meets the road again by Andbell House. Turn right after the house onto a bridleway which goes downhill to Pooh Bridge.

From an information board to the right of some trees at the back of the car park, head N across a grassy area and bear right onto a ridge path. In 400m you come to Gills Lap Clump⁶ and a trig point on your right.

Continue on the main track, now heading NE. In 150m you pass a large pit⁷ on your right. 40m later, a small gap in the trees on your left leads to a viewpoint with a bronze memorial plaque to AA Milne and EF Shepard, the author and illustrator of the Winnie-the-Pooh stories.

The stony track now starts to descend steeply. In 500m fork left in front of some trees, where the right fork leads to Wren's Warren car park. The track continues N and later curves left into some trees. As it approaches a house hidden in the wood it veers right and soon comes to a minor road.

Cross over the road⁸ and take the right fork to meet a track 50m away running parallel to the road (the left fork also meets this track eventually). Turn left at the signpost for Pooh Bridge and follow this track for 250m through woodland, then onto a minor road by Andbell House. 50m past its entrance, turn right onto a bridleway. This track goes downhill through the edge of a wood, in 600m coming to Pooh Bridge⁹.

Pooh Bridge to Hartfield (2¼ km)

Continue past the bridge up to a lane. Bear left onto the lane, then cross a stile on the right to go up across fields towards some houses. Bear right onto a path, then turn left at a three-way junction to reach the B2110. Turn right onto the road to reach Hartfield.

Cross the bridge and continue N on the bridleway, which in 250m joins a farm track and comes to a lane. Bear left onto the lane, then 100m later go over a stile on the right to enter a field. Head half-right uphill across the field on a wide grassy path and cross a stile into the next field. Continue up to its top right-hand corner (with fine views behind you).

Go over a stile here and turn right to go through a kissing gate and stile between two driveways. Head E on this path, with houses on your left and a large field on your right. In 250m turn left at a three-armed signpost to go across a small dip and onto a path heading N through some trees.

In 150m go over a stile to join a track which leads down to the B2110. Turn right on the road and walk along the pavement, keeping left at a road junction to enter Hartfield. Pooh Corner, the recommended tea stop if you arrive before 4.30pm, is on the left in about 100m.

After having tea here, or to find other refreshment places, continue along the High Street for a further 250m. You pass the Hay Waggon pub on your right, with the Anchor Inn just beyond it at the bottom of Church Street.

If you are finishing the walk here, the bus stop for East Grinstead is by the Hay Waggon pub. Buses for Tunbridge Wells stop a little further along the High Street, just past the junction with Church Street.

If you are doing the Extended Main Walk back to Ashurst Station, go to §11.

Withyham to Hartfield (2 km)

From the junction of lanes below the church take the main driveway heading south but soon go over a stile on the right to follow the High Weald Landscape Trail. After going through some trees, turn right to cross a stone bridge and go along a field edge past Forstal Farm. On entering a large field, bear left to go diagonally up across it. Keep to the right-hand edge of the next fields to enter Hartfield and go down Church Street to the centre of the village.

With an impressive house³ up on your left, take the “Private Drive” heading S, signposted as the Wealdway and High Weald Landscape Trail. In 300m, just after the driveway to Forstal Cottage, go over a stile on the right, following the High Weald Landscape Trail marker. Go across the field¹⁰, aiming just to the left of a large oak tree.

On the far side the path goes into some trees. When it emerges briefly, take the right fork. In 60m, veer left in front of a hedge to meet an earth track in 40m. Turn sharp right onto this track, cross a stone bridge over a stream and follow the right-hand field edge NW towards Forstal Farm.

Soon after passing the farmhouse continue ahead into a small (possibly damp) grassy area, towards a gate to the left of some trees. On the other side, do not follow the obvious path up the right-hand field edge but turn half-left to head W, climbing gently towards a line of tall trees 250m away. As you get nearer you should see a footpath post in a gap between two of the trees. After passing this post, the path levels out and you continue in the same direction.

At the end of the field cross a stile and take the right fork on the other side to go along the right-hand field edge. In 200m cross a stile and a concrete slab over a ditch into the next field. Follow the right-hand field edge up to the corner, turn right to cross a stile and go down a few steps to a lane opposite Hartfield church.

Turn left along the lane, which leads into Church Street. The Anchor Inn, a possible lunch place, is on your right just before the main road.

The return route goes back up Church Street, but before leaving Hartfield the following short detour is recommended.

Detour to Pooh Corner and back (+500m)

Turn left at the bottom of Church Street to head SW along Hartfield's attractive High Street. You soon pass another possible lunch pub, the Hay Waggon, on your left. About 200m further along the High Street, on the other side of the road, you can browse through all manner of Winnie-the-Pooh memorabilia at Pooh Corner. After visiting the shop or its tearoom, retrace your steps to Church Street.

Hartfield to Summerford Farm (2½ km)

From the centre of the village, take a short loop round by the church, then continue ahead across a small green. Cross over the B2110 and take a residential road out to some fields. Follow a footpath as it curves round to the right and later crosses the Forest Way. Continue across the River Medway, then turn right onto a path which runs parallel to the river and reaches a minor road by Summerford Farm.

From the centre of the village, head E up Church Street, passing the Anchor Inn on your left. At the end of the tarmac surface, turn left under part of Lych Gate Cottage. Go along the left-hand side of the churchyard, exiting down steps onto a tarmac path past a school. Go along this driveway and keep ahead through a gate onto a tarmac path across a green. On the other side, turn right onto the B2110, then immediately left into Castlefields.

At a T-junction turn right into Mottefield. Ignore a cul-de-sac on the left, but 20m later turn left onto a tarmac footpath towards a stile. Go over this and turn right to head E through a field¹¹. In 100m cross a ditch and go up to a gap in the hedge ahead.

Cross a stile here and follow the left-hand field edge, initially heading NE and slowly curving round to the right. 100m after passing into a second field, veer left through a gap in the hedge and head diagonally across another field. In the far corner go through a fieldgate, up a bank and straight across the Forest Way via two stiles.

Cross a footbridge over the River Medway and continue with a wire fence on your left. Go over a stile and turn right onto a wide grassy track (ignoring a footpath into the field ahead). Follow it into some trees, then along the top of a field. At the far corner go through a wooden gate and take the path downhill into some trees. A footpath soon comes up from the right and you continue ahead, now with a fence on your right.

At the end of the fence go through a gap in the hedge on your left, over a stile and up a few steps to emerge on a wide track. Turn right to go gently downhill, keeping right at the bottom to join a tarmac lane by the converted buildings of Summerford Farm. Follow this driveway out to a minor road and turn left.

If you took the Wealdway route in §2a you may recognise this point in the walk: you arrived at the road from the footpath opposite and turned left.

Summerford Farm to Ashurst Station (3¼ km)

Turn left onto the road to go uphill. Where the road curves left, continue ahead on a driveway, following it round to the right and downhill. Turn left in front of a hedge to go along the right-hand edge of some fields, then across a small plantation. After crossing a stream, turn right to go around the edge of a large field to its far corner. Cross a meadow to reach the River Medway and turn left to go alongside it. Shortly before reaching the A264, veer right onto a path across a weir, which comes out onto the main road. Turn right, then right again to reach the station.

Head NE along this minor road, climbing steadily for about 300m. Where the road levels out and curves sharply left at Summerford Cottage, keep ahead on the driveway to Hale Court Farm, signposted as a bridleway.

In 300m stay on the driveway as it curves right, ignoring a rough track going straight on. You soon pass a house on the left and there is a cattle grid beside the driveway, which is now going gently downhill. The turning off this driveway is not signposted and is easy to miss. 200m past the house, where the field on the left ends at a hedge, turn left off the concrete track to head N alongside the hedge.

In 75m go into the next field and continue down its right-hand edge. In the bottom corner cross a stile and a plank bridge to go through a small plantation. In 100m keep ahead at a path crossing. Go through some trees and cross a stream on a wooden footbridge to emerge in the corner of a large field.

Turn right and go round the field edge to the opposite corner. Go through a wooden gate, turn right to cross a stile and head NE on a wide path across a meadow. On the far side bear left to go over a stile and now simply head N alongside the River Medway for 800m.

100m before reaching the A264 (which is behind a row of tall trees up ahead), fork right onto a narrow path to cross the river at a weir. Follow this dank path through a tall metal gate and under the railway. Turn right when you reach the main road. In 50m (having ignored a cul-de-sac to some houses) turn right again into the access road for Ashurst Station. Cross the footbridge for trains to London.

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» Last updated: June 15, 2010