Walk 78 : Cowden to Hever

A contrast between a remote part of the Weald and three attractive and popular Kent villages

Walking Instructions 

Walk Options

Click on any option to show the sections making up that route, or the heading above to show all sections.

Main Walk (16½ km)

Main Walk, omitting Chiddingstone (15 km)

Circular Walk, returning to Cowden (19½ km)

Circular Walk, omitting Chiddingstone (18 km)

Circular Walk, omitting Penshurst (16 km)

Walk Directions

Click on any section heading to switch between detailed directions and an outline, or the heading above to do the same for all sections.

Cowden Station to Hoath Corner (3½ km)

From the station, take the minor road up Blowers Hill and turn right to go past Rickwoods Farm. Take a footpath on the left and then turn right at a path crossing to go through a long valley to Birchcope Shaw. Turn left here to head north, later skirting the hamlet of Chiddingstone Hoath to reach Hoath Corner.

Turn right out of the station and take the left-hand of two ways out to a minor road. Turn left and go up this road for 100m, then turn right into Wickens Lane, signposted as a public footpath.

Continue along this lane for 400m, passing the entrances to Rickwoods House and then Rickwoods Farm. Shortly after the lane has curved to the left, turn left at a footpath sign to go up a track leading to an isolated house. As you reach its front garden, cross a stile on the right and continue across a field to the right of the house, aiming for a gap in the hedge ahead.

Cross a stile here into a large field and turn right. There is no path on the ground and the footpath sign appears to be pointing at a fieldgate in a gap in the trees 200m away. However, the continuation of the route is actually a stile into the wood 100m to its left. So, some way before reaching the fieldgate, veer left downhill into a long curving valley to find the stile on your right. Go over this stile into the wood and along a path which runs close to the valley.

The woodland path ends at another stile and you rejoin the valley for a further 500m, heading E. The next turning is also easy to miss. About 100m before the valley noticeably narrows, there is a stile down the slope on your left (near an isolated oak tree), with just an unobtrusive footpath marker pointing to it from a post on the right-hand side of the valley. Go over this stile into the wood.

Follow the path down a slope and round to the left on wooden planks across a stream. Keep ahead on the main path, initially heading NW, and take the right fork at a path junction 40m from the stream. After climbing through the trees, keep ahead where the path levels out and a wider path joins from the right.

The path ends at a stile leading into a field and you continue in much the same direction near its right-hand edge. Near the top right-hand corner of the field (where it can be very muddy), cross a stile a little way to the left of a metal fieldgate and continue on a narrow path at the edge of a small wood. You soon emerge into another field; follow the path round to the left and continue along its right-hand edge, heading N.

In the far right-hand corner go up to a stile in the hedge and carefully cross a minor road to continue on the footpath opposite. This leads up through some trees, with a driveway on the right. 75m from the road, as the path bends to the right, bear left to go up to a large field on a plateau. Continue to head N on a footpath through the middle of the field for 300m. At a track junction turn right to reach a road.

Turn left onto the road, taking care as there is no pavement. Follow it downhill into a dark cutting between rocks and tree roots. As you emerge from the cutting there is an impressive sandstone rock formation in a depression on the left and a row of houses on the right. If you do not want to visit the Rock Inn, turn sharp right onto the driveway curving round in front of these houses, almost doubling back.

If you want to stop for an early lunch at the pub in Hoath Corner, follow the directions below.

Detour to the Rock Inn and back (+150m)

Keep ahead on the road and follow it round to the right at the junction. The Rock Inn¹ is just around the corner, on the right-hand side of the road.

After visiting the pub, return the same way past the road junction and bear left at a public footpath sign onto the driveway in front of the houses.

Hoath Corner to Salmans Manor (1¾ km)

Take a footpath heading south-east round the edge of Puckden Wood to Oakenden Farm. Continue on the footpath heading east past Harden Vineyard to reach Salmans Manor.

At the end of the short driveway continue on a wide grassy path going downhill between fences, heading SE. At the bottom, follow the path as it veers left and then right into some trees. Soon after, fork right at a path junction to climb through the wood and out over a stile into a field.

Head E across the field on a grassy path, aiming for the far end of a line of trees on your right. Cross a stile here and turn right along the field edge (soon with a distant view of Penshurst Place in the valley away to your left). Leave the field via a stile in the bottom corner and go down a few steps to come out onto a track opposite a house.

Turn left onto the track, which in 100m ends at a wooden garage. Continue on the path to its right, which soon comes to a stile leading into an attractive large field, dotted with trees. Follow a wide grassy path near its left-hand edge for about 300m, gradually descending. The path comes to a stile which you cross to continue through a wood, in 100m coming to a path junction.

A narrow path continuing ahead was the original route of the footpath, which has since been diverted. If you take this woodland path you come in about 200m to a hand-drawn “Footpath” sign pointing to the right. This leads into a field where you turn left and continue the directions at [•] below.

For the official route (which is nicer) follow the main path briefly round to the right. In just 15m turn left by a low wooden post and continue through the trees to a stile. Go over this and keep ahead along the edge of Harden Vineyard. Soon after passing this, the other path emerges from the trees.

[•] Just after this gap in the trees, go through a metal kissing gate on the left into a small fenced-off field and leave it through a similar gate in the far corner. Bear left on the other side to go across a small enclosure and leave it through a wooden kissing gate into a field. Turn right and go along its right-hand edge, later downhill. Near the bottom corner, go through a kissing gate and down a small flight of steps. Turn right onto a track and follow it between tall hedges, then through a gate to join a tarmac lane at a bend by the buildings of Salmans Manor.

It is worth going along the lane to the left for a short distance, just to get a fine view of the large mill pond² opposite a particularly attractive oast house conversion.

If you are doing the full walk, via Penshurst, go to §4.

Salmans Manor to Wellers Town Road direct (1¼ km)

Take the lane heading north and then north-west to Wat Stock.
For the short cut, omitting Penshurst, continue along the lane past the mill pond, heading N. At the top of the slope keep left, avoiding the entrance to Abbotsmerry Barn. The lane (now unsurfaced) continues between hedges, then into a wood. After passing a large pond it veers right and left and goes past some cottages. At a junction by the derelict farm buildings at Wat Stock, follow it round to the left.

Continue along the lane as it passes another pond and bends right. 150m after this bend, bear right onto a track and go through a gate to the right of a metal fieldgate into a field. Head diagonally across this on a grassy path and leave it through another gate to emerge on a minor road.

To continue the walk, go to §7.

Salmans Manor to Penshurst (1¾ km)

Take the track heading south-east and turn left onto the footpath which goes across the River Eden to The Warren. Continue on a track towards Penshurst, then on the B2188 into the village.

Assuming that you wandered up to the mill pond, return to the junction where you arrived and now follow the lane briefly round to the left. Where there is a “Private Road” sign ahead, turn right onto a wide track with a bridleway marker, heading SE. In 100m this comes to a tall hedge, where you turn left through a metal kissing gate onto a narrow fenced path. Follow this around two edges of some large fields and through another kissing gate in the opposite corner. Follow the enclosed path to a footbridge taking you over the River Eden³.

On the other side turn half-right and go across a patch of grass. Do not go through a wide gap into a field with a brick pillbox, but cross a stile to the right of the gap and go up the left-hand edge of the adjacent field. In 300m this leads onto a concrete lane by some houses. Now simply follow this lane for 600m until it comes out onto the B2188 by a school on the outskirts of Penshurst.

Turn left and follow the road into the village, passing some attractive old buildings⁴ and coming to a junction with the B2176 in 200m. Quaintways tearoom, a possible lunch stop, is on the right here, while the Leicester Arms Hotel is just up ahead on the right.

Penshurst to Wellers Town Road (3 km)

Briefly head east along the B2176 and turn left through Leicester Square into the churchyard. Follow the Eden Valley Walk past the west front of Penshurst Place and diagonally across the grass to the B2176. Turn back towards the village for a short distance, then turn right onto the old coach road. Follow this all the way to Wat Stock.

If you want to take a short cut out of the village, simply head north on the B2176 and turn left after 200m into the lane to Salmans Farm, resuming the directions at [•] below.

For a more interesting route out of Penshurst, turn right out of Quaintways or the Leicester Arms to briefly head E on the B2176. Just before the road turns right, a short flight of steps on the left leads up to the picturesque old houses in Leicester Square⁵.

If you want to visit Penshurst Place, follow the instructions below.

Detour to Penshurst Place and back (+1 km)

Continue on the road past Leicester Square and keep ahead through a stone and brick archway onto the access road to Penshurst Place. Along the way, you get a glimpse of the gardens through a locked gate in the high brick wall on your left. At the end of the wall, turn left as indicated towards the House Entrance on the far side of the car park.

After visiting the house and gardens, return the same way to the B2176 by Leicester Square.

Go up the steps into Leicester Square and under an archway⁶ into the churchyard of St John the Baptist Church⁷ (which is worth visiting). Continue round the left-hand side of the church and leave the churchyard through a metal kissing gate, to get a fine view of Penshurst Place behind the hedge-topped stone wall on your right.

Bear slightly left away from this wall, heading NW across the grass towards a metal kissing gate 200m away, leading out onto the B2176. Turn sharp left onto the road and go back towards Penshurst for 125m. Just after a 30mph road sign, turn right down the lane to Salmans Farm, signposted as a public bridleway.

[•] Continue along the lane⁸, in 500m crossing the River Eden. Soon afterwards, fork right up a track, with a huge array of polytunnels in the fields on your left and later with fine views over the Eden Valley on your right. Continue on the main track for 1½ km to the derelict farm buildings at Wat Stock and keep ahead where a lane (the short cut from Salmans Manor) joins from the left.

Follow the lane as it passes a pond and bends right. 150m after this bend, bear right onto a track and go through a gate to the right of a metal fieldgate into a field. Head diagonally across this on a grassy path and leave it through another gate to emerge on a minor road.

If you are doing the full walk, via Chiddingstone, go to §7.

Wellers Town Road to Hill Hoath direct (1 km)

Continue across the road and take the footpath northwards through a wood. On the other side, keep left to reach the hamlet of Hill Hoath.

Turn right onto the road for just 30m, crossing over at some point. Go over a stile onto an attractive woodland path and follow this for 400m. Leave the wood through a kissing gate to continue on a wide path, which comes to a fork in 50m.

For the short cut, omitting Chiddingstone, keep ahead. In a further 200m, veer left towards farm buildings and pass to the right of them. Bear right in front of some stables onto a lane, going past a few cottages in the hamlet of Hill Hoath. At a junction with a lane coming up from Chiddingstone, turn left.

You will now be following the route of Book 1 Walk 19 (in reverse) to Hever. To continue the walk, go to §9.

Wellers Town Road to Chiddingstone (1¼ km)

Continue across the road and take the footpath northwards through a wood. On the other side, fork right onto a footpath which leads over a small hill into Chiddingstone. Turn left and go along the village street to the Castle Inn.

Turn right onto the road for just 30m, crossing over at some point. Go over a stile onto an attractive woodland path and follow this for 400m. Leave the wood through a kissing gate to continue on a wide path, which comes to a fork in 50m.

To go through Chiddingstone, take the right fork, as indicated by a sign on a tree to your right. In 200m another path joins from the left and there is a stile in the hedge on your right. Go over this and immediately turn left onto a wide path (not the wide path heading E across the field).

You will now be following the route of Book 1 Walk 19 (in reverse) through Chiddingstone to Hever.

Follow the path as it goes uphill and curves gently to the right. On the far side of the field continue on a path between hedges. This leads down to a street, where you turn left towards Chiddingstone. 30m along this street, you could make a short detour to see the Chiding Stone⁹.

Detour to the Chiding Stone and back (+300m)

Turn left onto a signposted path to the Chiding Stone, where there is an information panel. The path to it is a dead end and you will have to return to this point.

Continue W along Chiddingstone's village street¹⁰. You pass the Chiddingstone Stores and its tearoom on your left, opposite St Mary's Church¹¹. Just before the road turns sharply to the right, you come to the Castle Inn on your left, another possible tea place.

Chiddingstone to Hill Hoath (1¼ km)

Either skirt around Chiddingstone Castle on the road, or consider going through its grounds if they are open. On the other side head south on the lane to Hill Hoath.

From any of the tea places, return to the street and go up to the right-hand bend, where there is a pedestrian entrance into the grounds of Chiddingstone Castle through a gate in the wall ahead. If the castle grounds are open you could go through them, although this is not a public right of way.

Please do not take the alternative route in §8b unless you are prepared to pay the £1 entry fee (the charge might be waived if you are visiting the castle's tearoom). The grounds are not very large but include an attractive lake and some pleasant woodland paths beyond the lawn at the back of the house.

Route along public roads

Continue along the road for 500m, with some views of the castle beyond the lake on the left. At a crossroads, turn left onto a lane. You soon pass the main entrance to the castle on the left (the exit for the alternative route).

Route via castle grounds

Go through the gate and follow the path as it curves round and crosses an arm of the lake on a footbridge. The entrance to the house is up ahead; to go directly to the Victorian Tearoom without visiting the house and its collections, turn left and go round to the back of the house to find the shop and tearoom in the far corner.

Afterwards, return to the front of the house. Go past the entrance on your left and continue along the driveway as it curves round to the right past a vehicle barrier. The driveway leads to a lane, where you turn sharp left, almost doubling back.

Stay on the lane as it heads S for 700m, passing some private exits from the castle grounds. At the hamlet of Hill Hoath, follow the lane round to the right at a junction.

Hill Hoath to Hever (2½ km)

From Hill Hoath, follow the Eden Valley Walk westwards all the way to Hever.

Go along the short stretch of lane, passing an attractive cottage. At the end, keep ahead on a track (the waymarked route of the bridleway, a narrow path to its right, appears to have been abandoned). Veer to the right of a metal fieldgate to go onto an earth track heading W, ignoring a stile on your left.

The track soon goes up a small rise, through a sandstone rock cutting and then alongside a field. Before the end of the field, fork right at a path junction. Stay on this path, crossing several broad paths laid out with horse jumps. The path continues down a flight of steps and across a stream, then zig-zags right and left between fences to reach a lane.

Cross over and continue on a similar path opposite, which later goes past a cottage and comes to a private road at a junction. Veer right, crossing this road, then turn left to go through a gap onto a grassy path running alongside it, initially SW and later bending right to head NW. Stay on the path as it goes into some trees and later crosses the road on a wooden footbridge. Shortly afterwards the path turns left to go alongside the grounds of Hever Castle (which is hidden behind trees). Eventually the path crosses a stream and goes up a slope to enter the churchyard of St Peter's Church¹². Go past the church and out through its lychgate to Hever Road, with the King Henry VIII pub opposite.

If you want to visit Hever Castle, follow the instructions below.

Detour to Hever Castle and back (+1 km)

Turn right onto the road. Just past the churchyard, bear right to go through a gateway to the entrance kiosks. The moated castle and its formal gardens are some 400m further on. After visiting the castle, return to the road by the King Henry VIII pub.

If you are doing a Circular Walk back to Cowden Station, go to §11.

Hever to Hever Station (1½ km)

Continue to follow the Eden Valley Walk, initially along a road and then south-west on a track. At a T-junction, keep ahead on a lane. After crossing the railway bridge, turn right into a driveway; this leads onto a path which drops down to Hever Station.

Stay on Hever Road as it turns sharp right by the pub, and follow it for 450m to a T-junction. Turn right, then in 50m go over a stile on the left onto an enclosed path, signposted as the Eden Valley Walk. Follow this path for 500m to come out onto a minor road at a junction.

You could turn right to Hever Station, as indicated by the road sign, but the suggested route is to keep ahead on the road towards Cowden. Go over the railway bridge (with the station visible on your right), then in 40m turn right into a driveway, still following the Eden Valley Walk. Keep to the right past the entrance to several houses. As you approach the station, fork right onto a path leading down to the platform, which is the one for trains to London.

Hever to Mark Beech (3 km)

Take the footpath opposite the pub, heading south. Go across a lane and continue on the footpath opposite, but turn right before Meechlands Farm onto a footpath leading to the Greyhound pub. Head north along the road for a short distance, then turn sharp left onto a footpath which goes under the railway and through Oak Wood to Bramsell's Farm. Turn left onto a road to reach Mark Beech.

On the bend in Hever Road by the King Henry VIII pub, take the driveway heading S, signposted as a footpath. After passing Hever Primary School, keep ahead on a path, which leads to a minor road at a bend. Bear left onto the road for 50m, then veer right up the continuation of the footpath, through a kissing gate into a large field.

Continue to head S, keeping fairly close to the left-hand edge of the field. The shortest route is to go through the trees ahead near the corner of the field, but the path here can be awkward and you could veer a little way to the right where there is a wide gap. In the next field, aim for the left-hand end of the hedge opposite, where it meets some trees. Go over the first of two stiles here and turn right onto a narrow path between the hedge and a wire fence.

Follow the path for 300m, where it leads into the beer garden of the Greyhound pub (which is usually closed in the afternoon). Turn right onto Uckfield Lane, then in 125m turn sharp left onto an enclosed footpath, to the left of a house called Wedgwood.

In 350m the path goes under a high brick railway bridge and bends left on the other side. Follow the path S through Oak Wood for 750m, climbing gently. After going alongside a more open area on the left for about 125m, and where the main path veers down to the right, fork left onto a narrow path. This goes between fields and later farm buildings before coming out onto a minor road.

Turn left and follow the road E for 300m into Mark Beech¹³. Just before you come to the churchyard of Holy Trinity Church on your right, there is a wide track on the right with a stile and a footpath sign on its left.

If you want some refreshment before the journey home, follow the directions in §11b.

Direct route

Go over (or around) the stile onto the footpath, which goes through a belt of trees into the churchyard. Bear right towards a stile in the hedge.

The track from the road is a more direct route as it passes the exit from the churchyard, but a fieldgate along it is usually locked.

Detour through village (+150m)

Continue along the road and turn right at the crossroads to find the Kentish Horse on the right-hand side.

After visiting the pub, go onto the driveway leading to the pub's car park and through a gate into the churchyard. Go past the left-hand side of the church and keep ahead on a faint grassy path towards a stile in the hedge opposite.

Mark Beech to Cowden Station (1½ km)

Take the footpath heading south-west from the churchyard. Go down through some fields, then bear left to go through a strip of woodland. Head south-east alongside the railway to reach a road just past Cowden Station. Go under the railway bridge and turn left for the station entrance.

Go over the stile to leave the churchyard, straight across a wide track and turn half-left. Head SW across the field, aiming for a wide gap to the left of a clump of trees 125m away. Go through this gap and veer left to go gently downhill alongside a line of trees. In 250m go over a stile in the hedge on the left into the adjacent field and continue in your previous direction on the other side of the hedge. In the bottom corner of the field cross a stile and continue on a path through a wood.

The path gradually curves round to the left, passing an unusual old cottage in a clearing on the right. Shortly afterwards, keep left at a path junction by a large beech tree, now heading SE. Later, ignore a path on the right leading down to a footbridge over a stream.

At the next path junction, with a post containing two footpath markers, fork right. Continue on this path for 400m, now with the railway (which has emerged from a tunnel) in a cutting on your left. After passing Cowden Station, the path veers up to the left and you go over a stile to reach a road. Go under the railway bridge and turn left for the station.

The railway here is single track, so take care to catch a train heading in the right direction. As you go through the entrance hall onto the platform, trains to London are going from left to right.

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» Last updated: August 22, 2010