Benfleet Circular via Canvey Island walk

Varied walk around a unique island in the Thames Estuary: mudflats, creeks, river traffic, sandy beaches, seawall murals, grassy marshland, oil terminals & refineries

History

This is a list of previous times this walk has been done by the club (since Jan 2010). For more recent events (since April 2015), full details are shown.

Date Option Post # Weather
Sun, 26-Mar-23 Sunday Walk - A place and a walk like no other: Canvey Island (Benfleet Circular) 6 a little rain
Sun, 07-Nov-21 Sunday Walk - A place and a walk like no other: Canvey Island (Benfleet Circular) 7 sunny
Sun, 27-Jan-19 A Sunday Saunter around Canvey Island 6 bright and breezy to start turning cloudy and bracing with a few passing icy squalls
Sat, 16-Jun-18 Saturday Walk - A Walk Like No Other: Benfleet Circular (via Canvey Island) 13
Sun, 17-Sep-17 Sunday Walk - Benfleet Circular (via Canvey Island) [Swimming Walk] 7 largely sunny
Sat, 06-Feb-16 Saturday Second Walk [New Walk] "...this mudflat rescued from the sea by Dutch engineers..." 14 overcast dry blustery
Length: 23.2 km (14.5 mi) [much shorter walk possible, see below]
Ascent/Descent: 40m
Net Walking Time: 4 ¾ hours
Toughness: 2/10
Take the 09.45 Shoeburyness train from Fenchurch Street (09.50 Limehouse, 09.56 West Ham, 10.02 Barking), arrives Benfleet 10.38.
Return trains: xx.10 and xx.40 (fast) and xx.18 and xx.48 (not so fast), all to Fenchurch Street.
A flat walk, that starts and finishes with a busy road stretch, features a fair amount of hard surface paths and some A-road noise near the end, and passes – in succession – a golf course, a static caravan park, an ex-landfill site, housing estates, another caravan park, a sewage plant, an LNG terminal, an oil product terminal, an oil refinery, the site of a never-finished oil refinery, another oil terminal and another – larger – landfill site?????? And yet, and yet…

This is one not just for the Industrial Romantic, or for fans of the Pub Rock legends Dr. Feelgood, or for students of the lives of the ex-East End White Working Classes.Without navigational challenges (as all you do is: walk to the seawall and follow it) you experience an ever-changing scenery of tidal creeks and mud flats, river marshes, salt marshes, flood barriers, sluices and sandbanks, get views of the Benfleet Downs, of Hadleigh Castle & Country Park, the Essex cliffs, Southend with its Pier, the North Sea and the busy river traffic, of ships big and small, boatyards, yacht clubs and marinas, pass sandy beaches and enclosed pools on the foreshore, jetties, extensive seawall murals telling Canvey Island stories and – post lunch – long tranquil stretches past grassy marshes with abundant birdlife.

Still a walk like no other.

Shorter Walk: Canvey Island is linked to Benfleet station by many regular buses, enabling you to start or finish the walk at almost any point along the way (in the first half of the walk), as bus stops are often just a short distance from the walk route. For a route map of the bus network, you should check here: http://www.plusbus.info/benfleet.

The most logical shortcut to a bus stop, right after the late lunch stop, is described in the directions. It results in a 14.6 km/9.1 mi walk (rated 1/10).
Lunch: The Labworth Beach Café (9.7 km/6.0 mi, food to 15.00), in its modernist building with panoramic views of the Thames estuary; The Lobster Smack (13.2 km/8.2 mi, food all day) is the oldest surviving building on Canvey and a classic pub which has so much history it even features in the Dickens novel ‘Great Expectations’.
Tea: Three pubs and two sub-continental restaurants on High Street, just past the station (see pdf for details).
For summary, map, height profile, photos, walk directions pdf and gpx/kml files click here. T=swc.258
  • 22-Mar-23

    Hi all, I only saw trains running from Fenchurch St not Liverpool St (mentioned in the description). Kunal

  • 22-Mar-23

    Indeed, back to normal: Fenchurch Street. Posting amended accordingly.

    Must have had trackworks scheduled when I posted it, that subsequently got pp'd, or I made a mistake (heaven forbid...)

  • 26-Mar-23

    5 off the train, with 1 other a train behind due to severe delays on the Jub Line, so 6 . The forecast had been for heavy rain most of the day, only stopping after we would have finished, but as so often, this was wildly off the mark. In reality we had some drops of rain on and off initially, then none at all, so in summary: a little rain .

    The other 5 had never or not for a long time been to Canvey, so the various sights, marinas, mud flats, river views, murals, beaches, industrial leftovers and even the caravan parks found some interest. It was a three-stopper for 4 of us, at the tea room in Smallboat Marina for elevenses, The Labworth for lunch and the Lobster Smack for refreshers. The other 2 skipped the Snack, claiming an Ocado delivery window approaching.

    Fine day out, especially when compared to the weather forecast.

  • 26-Mar-23

    Oh, the bird life...

    A bit disappointing initially, as the mud banks at low tide didn't have many birds in them. More luck when we got to the Thames, now at ultra low tide: black headed gulls, wagtails, turnstones. Later in the marshes, finally some waders, egrets and other folk.

Length: 23.2 km (14.5 mi) [much shorter walk possible, see below]
Ascent/Descent: 40m
Net Walking Time: 4 ¾ hours
Toughness: 2/10
Take the 09.45 Leigh-on-Sea train from Liverpool Street (09.52 Stratford, 10.03 Barking, 10.12 Upminster), arrives Benfleet 10.32.
Return trains: xx.18 and xx.48 to L’pool Street.
A flat walk, that starts and finishes with a busy road stretch, features a fair amount of hard surface paths and some A-road noise near the end, and passes – in succession – a golf course, a static caravan park, an ex-landfill site, housing estates, another caravan park, a sewage plant, an LNG terminal, an oil product terminal, an oil refinery, the site of a never-finished oil refinery, another oil terminal and another – larger – landfill site?????? And yet, and yet…
This is one not just for the Industrial Romantic, or for fans of the Pub Rock legends Dr. Feelgood, or for students of the lives of the ex-East End White Working Classes.Without navigational challenges (as all you do is: walk to the seawall and follow it) you experience an ever-changing scenery of tidal creeks and mud flats, river marshes, salt marshes, flood barriers, sluices and sandbanks, get views of the Benfleet Downs, of Hadleigh Castle & Country Park, the Essex cliffs, Southend with its Pier, the North Sea and the busy river traffic, of ships big and small, boatyards, yacht clubs and marinas, pass sandy beaches and enclosed pools on the foreshore, jetties, extensive seawall murals telling Canvey Island stories and – post lunch – long tranquil stretches past grassy marshes with abundant birdlife.

Still a walk like no other.

Shorter Walk: Canvey Island is linked to Benfleet station by many regular buses, enabling you to start or finish the walk at almost any point along the way (in the first half of the walk), as bus stops are often just a short distance from the walk route. For a route map of the bus network you should check here: http://www.plusbus.info/benfleet.
The most logical shortcut to a bus stop, right after the late lunch stop, is described in the directions. It results in a 14.6 km/9.1 mi walk (rated 1/10).
Lunch: The Labworth Beach Café (9.7 km/6.0 mi), in its modernist building with panoramic views of the Thames estuary; The Lobster Smack (13.2 km/8.2 mi, food all day) is the oldest surviving building on Canvey and a classic pub which has so much history it even features in the Dickens novel ‘Great Expectations’.
Tea: Three pubs and two sub-continental restaurants on High Street, just past the station (see pdf for details).
For summary, map, height profile, photos, walk directions pdf and gpx/kml files click here. T=swc.258
  • 07-Nov-21

    7 walkers in sunny weather.

    We started with low-ish tide, so initially had plenty of mudflats, wading birds and abandoned car tyres lying in the mud to look at. Egrets and a curlew were among the confirmed bird types seen. As the going was pretty fast, we had time to potentially add the out-and-back to Canvey Point along the low-lying marshes. At the decision point though, 1 of the 7 mentioned an afternoon appointment with her husband, so walked on, 1 other didn't quite fancy it, so she waited for the other 5.

    We thus followed the intermittent path in the slowly incoming tide and were rewarded with the small lonely beaches at the Point, the views of Southend Pier and the North Sea and a very large (500?) flock of oystercatchers, initially sitting on the beach to the north, then moving to the other side as we approached. After the taking of pictures had subsided, it was time to go back to the safety of the seawall around Canvey, but we now found that the incoming tide - had indeed come in, and quite quickly at that. Some of the formerly dryish paths were now properly wet, some channels were twice as wide as before, and some were twice as wide and twice as deep as well. Despite that, we got close to safety and close to walker 6 and also a couple of people from the adjacent Coast Watch station watching proceedings, without too much wetness in boots and trainers. But that's where the widest and deepest channels were, on the final 20 metres or so. So, we waded (without waders), and we all got plenty of water in our shoes. Thankfully, we couldn't stop laughing and there were no recriminations (no emails have come in yet to the SWC complaint line either, so far at least). Some had change socks, others didn't. And on we walked.

    There are several interesting, new murals along the Thames-facing seawall to take in (Covid-19, The History of Wall Murals etc.), as we were walking into the sun, the wind (not too bad, some of us never put a jacket on all day) and the view.

    The Labworth Bistro was predictively full (and with a waiting queue of people), so our lunch stop was to be the Lobster Smack, as it usually is. Leaving from there just before 15.00, we knew we'd beat darkness easily and could thus soak in the relative quiet of the marshland and the inland creeks that followed without rushing. 16.48 train for 6.

Stargazer
Stargazer
SWC Walk 258: Benfleet Circular via Canvey Island T=SWC.258

Distance: 14.5 Miles or 23.2 km for those more metrically minded (shorter options available)

Difficulty: 3 out of 10

Train: Take the 9:55 AM Shoeburyness train from London Fenchurch Street (10:05 West Ham), arriving at Benfleet at 10:39. Return trains from Benfleet run 4 times an hour – but the fastest are at XX:01 and 31 past the hour. Buy a day return to Benfleet.

A walk like no other? Most certainly…This walk explores varied terrain in the Thames Estuary, including tidal creeks and countryside, industrial operations (past and present) and iconic musical and TV associations. There are frequent buses (and stops) along the route – so drop-off points are possible (check the walk instructions for details). You can find more information about the walk and download the walk instructions here.

The recommended lunch stop is the Lobster Smack (01268 514 297) on Haven Road (8.2 miles/13.2 km into the walk). For post walk refreshies, the Hoy & Helmut just up the hill from Benfleet Station is suggested……however, loads of options abound...

Enjoy the walk!
  • 28-Jan-19

    Five mostly familiar faces assembled at Benfleet Station in eager anticipation for the journey ahead with the signs of industry beckoning them forward. As the tide was already quite low, we were treated with a great variety of birds along the various mud flats and creeks passed along the early and late stretches of the walk. Taking advantage of the low tide, we opted to explore the recommended diversion to Canvey Point with 3 going most of the way out along the spit and 2 satisfying themselves with the view. We then carried along the sea wall enjoying a vast array of murals depicting various local topics from wildlife and natural disasters to Dr. Feelgood. When checking out the early lunch venue, the trailing 3 spotted yet another familiar face, who had taken a later train and by-passed us while we were on the diversion, making for a total of 6 . The whole group reassembled at the late lunch option. There was some real excitement just before and after lunch with a large multi-product tanker unloading its cargo at one of the terminals passed along the way....After lunch the route became a bit more wild with interesting relics of abandoned petroleum infrastructure and the site of the UK's first "bug reserve" in a brownfield area of Special Scientific Interest. Three finished the day with a warming beverage at the locally recommended Hoy & Helmut before catching the 18:01. The weather for the day was almost as varied as the scenery passed along the route bright and breezy to start turning cloudy and bracing with a few passing icy squalls . Really a very interesting and fun day out and certainly, as the tin says, a walk like no other....

Length: 23.2 km (14.5 mi) [much shorter walk possible, see below]
Ascent/Descent: 40m; Net Walking Time: 4 ¾ hours
Toughness: 3/10
Take the 10.02 Shoeburyness train from Fenchurch Street (10.06 Limehouse, 10.11 West Ham, 10.16 Barking, 10.25 Upminster), arrives Benfleet 10.45.
Return trains: xx.00 and xx.30 to Fenchurch Street, and xx.15 and xx.45 to L’pool Street.
A flat walk, that starts and finishes with a busy road stretch, features a fair amount of hard surface paths and some A-road noise near the end, and passes – in succession – a golf course, a static caravan park, an ex-landfill site, housing estates, another caravan park, a sewage plant, an LNG terminal, an oil product terminal, an oil refinery, the site of a never-finished oil refinery, another oil terminal and another – larger – landfill site?????? And yet, and yet…
This is one not just for the Industrial Romantic, or for fans of the Pub Rock legends Dr. Feelgood, or for students of the lives of the ex-East End White Working Classes.
Without navigational challenges (as all you do is: walk to the seawall and follow it) you experience an ever-changing scenery of tidal creeks and mud flats, river marshes, salt marshes, flood barriers, sluices and sandbanks, get views of the Benfleet Downs, of Hadleigh Castle & Country Park, the Essex cliffs, Southend with its Pier, the North Sea and the busy river traffic, of ships big and small, boatyards, yacht clubs and marinas, pass sandy beaches and enclosed pools on the foreshore, jetties, extensive seawall murals telling Canvey Island stories and – post lunch – long tranquil stretches past grassy marshes with abundant birdlife.
A walk like no other? Most certainly.
Shorter Walk: Canvey Island is linked to Benfleet station by many regular buses, enabling you to start or finish the walk at almost any point along the way (in the first half of the walk), as bus stops are often just a short distance from the walk route. For a route map of the bus network you should check here: http://www.plusbus.info/benfleet (under ‘Additional Information’).
The most logical shortcut to a bus stop, right after the late lunch stop, is described in the directions. It results in a 14.6 km/9.1 mi walk (rated 1/10).
Lunch: The Labworth Restaurant and Beach Bistro (9.7 km/6.0 mi), in its modernist building with panoramic views of the Thames estuary; The Lobster Smack (13.2 km/8.2 mi, food all day) is the oldest surviving building on Canvey and a classic pub which has so much history it even features in the Dickens novel ‘Great Expectations’.
Tea: Three pubs and two sub-continental restaurants on High Street, just past the station (see pdf for details).
For summary, map, height profile, photos, walk directions pdf and gpx/kml files click here.
T=swc.258
  • 18-Jun-18

    13 on this very enjoyable walk. The first highlight was the little extension onto the tidal mudflats facing Southend Pier, we had beautiful clear views of Leigh-On-Sea and the Isle of Sheppey to our right. After walking around to face the Kent coast several of us took refreshments outside at a little tea room while watching children play on a little beach. The cafe offered us 10p on each mug we bought back, apparently a lot of Canvey Islanders walk off with them! And so on to a lovely lunchtime pub where most walkers enjoyed lunch alfresco. Next bit was a bit industrial with big gas/oil holding facilities but this in no way spoilt what was a varied and interesting walk. The last third was green and beautiful.

Length: 23.2 km (14.5 mi) [much shorter walk possible, see below]
Ascent/Descent: 40m; Net Walking Time: 4 ¾ hours
Toughness: 3/10
Take the 09.55 Shoeburyness train from Fenchurch Street (09.59 Limehouse, 10.05 West Ham, 10.10 Barking, 10.19 Upminster), arrives Benfleet 10.39.
Return trains are on xx.01 and xx.31.
A flat walk, that starts and finishes with a busy road stretch, features a fair amount of hard surface paths and some A-road noise near the end, and passes – in succession – a golf course, a static caravan park, an ex-landfill site, housing estates, another caravan park, a sewage plant, an LNG terminal, an oil product terminal, an oil refinery, the site of a never-finished oil refinery, another oil terminal and another – larger – landfill site?????? And yet, and yet…
This is one not just for the Industrial Romantic, or for fans of the Pub Rock legends Dr. Feelgood, or for students of the lives of the ex-East End White Working Classes.
Without navigational challenges (as all you do is: walk to the seawall and follow it) you experience an ever-changing scenery of tidal creeks and mud flats, river marshes, salt marshes, flood barriers, sluices and sandbanks, get views of the Benfleet Downs, of Hadleigh Castle & Country Park, the Essex cliffs, Southend with its Pier, the North Sea and the busy river traffic, of ships big and small, boatyards, yacht clubs and marinas, pass sandy beaches and enclosed pools on the foreshore, jetties, extensive seawall murals telling Canvey Island stories and – post lunch – long tranquil stretches past grassy marshes with abundant birdlife.
A walk like no other? Most certainly.
Shorter Walk: Canvey Island is linked to Benfleet station by many regular buses, enabling you to start or finish the walk at almost any point along the way (in the first half of the walk), as bus stops are often just a short distance from the walk route. For a route map of the bus network you should check here: http://www.plusbus.info/benfleet (under ‘Additional Information’).
The most logical shortcut to a bus stop, right after the late lunch stop, is described in the directions. It results in a 14.6 km/9.1 mi walk (rated 1/10).
Lunch: The Labworth Restaurant and Beach Bistro (9.7 km/6.0 mi), in its modernist building with panoramic views of the Thames estuary; The Lobster Smack (13.2 km/8.2 mi, food all day), recently refurbished, this is the oldest surviving building on Canvey and a classic pub which has so much history it even features in the Dickens novel ‘Great Expectations’.
Tea: Three pubs and two Sub-continental restaurants on High Street, just past the station (see pdf for details).

For summary, map, height profile, photos, walk directions and gpx/kml files click here.
T=swc.258
  • 17-Sep-17

    7 in largely sunny weather. The walk started with the tide in, so no mudflats in the morning. On the initial 'inland' leg, away from the Thames, there was hardly any breeze, so it felt quite muggy at times. A good pace was had, the scenery enjoyed and the many murals on the seawall on the Thames side much admired. A busy day for dogwalkers on Canvey, but not so busy for swimmers: no one was seen in the paddling pools or along the beaches. Are Essex folk not hard enough for these temps?

    The Labworth Bistro was nearly full, and couldn't have accomodated us anyway, so we strode on to The Lobster Smack for lunch, past the first paraphernalia of the Oil & Gas Industry, with the odd container ship passing by on the left.

    Lunch was passable, and certainly quick in delivery and therefore good value for money.

    On past the low lying salt marshes, now at low tide, so with plenty of birds in the mudflats and then towards the end with the striking sight of large areas of Red Samphire around some of the ponds in the marshes (so we think anyway).

    16.31 train back.


SWC Walk 258 – Benfleet Circular (via Canvey Island)
Length: 23.2 km (14.5 mi) [shortcut possible, see below]
Ascent/Descent: 40 m; Net Walking Time: ca. 4 ¾ hours
Toughness: 3 out of 10
Varied walk around a unique island in the Thames Estuary: mudflats, creeks, river traffic, sandy beaches, seawall murals, grassy marshland and oil terminals & refineries
Take the 09.47 Shoeburyness train from Fenchurch Street (5 mins walk from Tower Hill or Aldgate tubes, 10 mins from Bank or L'pool Street), arriving Benfleet at 10.31
On route the train calls: Limehouse at 09.51 (DLR), West Ham at 09.56 (DLR, Jubilee, H’smith & City and District Lines), Barking at 10.02 (Overground, H’smith & City and District Lines) and Upminster at 10.11 (District Line).
(Fast) Return trains: XX.00, XX.15, XX.30 and XX.45 hours (46 or 49 minutes journey time)
First posting of this new walk, we will take the opportunity to check the walk directions.
To quote the summary of the write-up:
“A flat walk, that starts and finishes with a busy road stretch, features a fair amount of hard surface paths and some A-road noise near the end, and passes – in succession – a golf course, a static caravan park, an ex-landfill site, housing estates, another caravan park, a sewage plant, an LNG terminal, an oil product terminal, an oil refinery, the site of a never-finished oil refinery, another oil terminal and another – larger – landfill site??????
And yet, and yet…
This is one not just for the Industrial Romantic, or for fans of the Pub Rock legends Dr. Feelgood, or for students of the lives of the ex-East End White Working Classes.
Without navigational challenges (as all you do is: walk to the seawall and follow it) you experience an ever-changing scenery of tidal creeks and mud flats, river marshes, salt marshes, flood barriers, sluices and sandbanks, get views of the Benfleet Downs, of Hadleigh Castle & Country Park, the Essex cliffs, Southend with its Pier, the North Sea and the busy river traffic, of ships big and small, boatyards, yacht clubs and marinas, pass sandy beaches and enclosed pools on the foreshore, jetties, extensive seawall murals telling Canvey Island stories and – post lunch – long tranquil stretches past grassy marshes with abundant birdlife. “
The recommended lunch options are the iconic Labworth Beach Bistro in its modernist building with panoramic views of the Thames Estuary (9.7 km/6.0 mi), or the legendary smugglers’ inn the Lobster Smack (13.2 km/8.2 mi).Tea options are aplenty just a few hundred meters beyond the train station.
A walk like no other? Most certainly.

For walk directions, map, height profile, gpx/kml files and plenty of photos click here.
The directions include details of a shortcut to a bus stop, straight from the late lunch stop, it results in a 14.6 km/9.1 mi walk (rated 1/10).

T=swc.258
L=swc.258
  • Anonymous
    30-Jan-16

    A native of Benfleet writes: the recommended pub option us the Hoy & Helmet, a 16th century coaching inn but redecorated more recently, just up the hill from Benfleet station

  • 01-Feb-16

    Intend going.

  • Anonymous
    05-Feb-16

    Is this likely to be muddy? Or is it paved most of the way?

  • 05-Feb-16

    Don't like the mud? The Only Way Is Essex! It's paved for 5.6 km, the rest is on top of seawalls, i.e.: firm and grassy (if they weren't firm, they wouldn't be fit for purpose). Leave the gaiters at home...

  • Karen
    07-Feb-16

    14 overcast dry blustery

    14 off the train at Benfleet. It was overcast and windy, but the rain held off all day. When not concentrating on avoiding being blown into the sea, lots of interesting features to comment on and discuss, be they natural features like mud flats, tidal creeks and marshes, or the manmade relics of the recent past.

    At least 9 people lunched at the Lobster Smack (really lovely), with the picnickers joining for drinks hot and cold in order to enjoy the good company of their fellow walkers (or maybe just to escape the wind). Everyone set off together after lunch and we soon left behind the paved paths and completed the walk on the earthen sea walls. Nice underfoot, and, as promised, virtually mudfree.

    11 completed the full walk, with the rest taking the shortcut/bus. Back in Benfleet, 6 tried out the Hoy and Helmet as recommended by a former resident of Benfleet. 6 became 4 and made their way to the Anchor Inn. The last 3 standing returned to the Hoy and Helmet for reasonably-priced, adequate food served by friendly staff, before catching the 20:45 back to London.

    A nice long but not arduous walk that is quick to get to from London, yet feels a world away. Less than £8 from Central London with a Network Railcard. Friendly staff in the eateries and drinking holes. 'Reem', as the locals might say.

  • Anonymous
    07-Feb-16

    apparently wind speeds were up to 50mph by the end of the day so we did well not to be blown away completely!

  • Anonymous
    08-Feb-16

    Thanks to Thomas for devising this bleakly beautiful addition to the SWC programme, and for the typically comprehensive walk guide.