South West Coast Path : Abbotsbury to West Bay walk

Ridge walk, then coast and beach walk overlooking the majestic sweep of Lyme Regis Bay

Abbotsbury
Abbotsbury

Jun-08 • JonCombe on Flickr

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Abbotsbury
Abbotsbury

Jun-08 • JonCombe on Flickr

coastwalk77 dorset southwestcoastpath coast swcwalks swcwalk327 21609946946

Abbotsbury Tithe Barn
Abbotsbury Tithe Barn

Jun-08 • JonCombe on Flickr

coastwalk77 dorset southwestcoastpath coast swcwalks swcwalk327 21609932756

Abbotsbury from St Catherine's Chapel
Abbotsbury from St Catherine's Chapel

Jun-08 • JonCombe on Flickr

coast southwestcoastpath swcp jurassiccoast dorset coastwalk77 swcwalks swcwalk327 21448289319

Chesil Beach from St Catherine's Chapel, Abbotsbury
Chesil Beach from St Catherine's Chapel, Abbotsbury

Jun-08 • JonCombe on Flickr

coastwalk77 dorset southwestcoastpath coast swcwalks swcwalk327 21624670152

Chesil Beach from St Catherine's Chapel, Abbotsbury
Chesil Beach from St Catherine's Chapel, Abbotsbury

Jun-08 • JonCombe on Flickr

coast southwestcoastpath swcp jurassiccoast dorset coastwalk77 swcwalks swcwalk327 21014075213

Chesil Beach from St Catherine's Chapel, Abbotsbury
Chesil Beach from St Catherine's Chapel, Abbotsbury

Jun-08 • JonCombe on Flickr

coastwalk77 dorset southwestcoastpath coast swcwalks swcwalk327 21609920186

Length 9.3 miles (15.0 km) with 850 feet (275 m) of height gain
OS Maps OS Explorer 15 (Purbek and South Dorset)
Toughness 4 out of 10
Walk Notes

This stage of the South West Coast Path (SWCP) is an easy coast walk along the sweeping curve of Lyme Regis Bay, with great views, great swimming and great beach cafes! It starts with a ridge walk with fabulous view over the curve of the bay and back to the Isle of Portland. The route then descends to the long sandy beach and low cliff tops, still with lovely views of the sweeping bay passing several remote beaches.

The walk starts in Abbotsbury (Swannery, Subtropical Gardens, the start of the Chesil Beach spit) with a short but recommended out-and-back detour to climb a small hill with St Catherine's chapel (viewpoint, free if open). After returning to the town, it then climbs onto the downs above it, and follows the ridge for 4km (the 'South Dorset Ridgeway') above the coast with fine views over the curve of the bay. It then drops down to the beach, from where the route follows low cliff tops or the beach for the remainder of the route.

Starting at Wext Bexington beach (upmarket beach cafe), you pass Cogden Beach (remote), Hive Beach (gastro beach cafe and a hotel pub), and Burton Cliff before reaching a small river (the Bride). You can paddle across at low tide, or take a 400m out-and-back detour inland to a bridge.

Burton Freshwater beach has a caravan park, from here is 2km to West Bay, a small seaside town with a harbour, and the setting for the Broadchurch TV series. It has a pub, cafes, several shops and eateries, and a bus stop.

Travel is easy, there is a regular coastal bus service, which links to Weymouth, Dorchester and Axminster stations.

The ridge top route at the start is a little close to a road in places, but its views more than make up for it. If you prefer, there is a peaceful beach level alternative along the official SWCP.

Walk Options

Visit St Catherine's Chapel

1 mile longer, and a hill : Do make the short out-and-back detour near the start to visit the iconic chapel on a small hill above the town, with views of the Chesil Beach spit.

Visit the Subtropical Gardens

Highly recommended if you have time. On the circular walk, and main walk's 'beach level start' option.

SWCP along the beach

Same distance, but avoids most of the ascent. : The ridge top start is nicer with great views of the bay, but involves climbing the ridge and some road noise. An alternative start is to follow the official SWCP route instead, down to Abbotsbury's beach (passing the Chapel and Subtropical Gardens), and following the beach level path. This option joins up with the main route after a couple of sandy miles of beach walking at West Bexington beach.

Sandy beach or behind-the-beach path

2 parallel routes 25m apart The middle of the walk is along a sandy beach backed by sandy beach vegetation. You can alternate between the sandy beach (easier at low tide) or footpath behind it.

Short Circular Walk

Start with the main walk's ridge route to West Bexington beach, then return along the beach route, stopping off at West Bexington's beach cafe, Chesil Beach, the Subtropical Gardens and St Catherine's Chapel along the way.

Cliff Falls

The low cliffs at the end of the walk (between Hive beach, Burton Freshwater beach and West Bay) are crumbling, and there have been several large cliff falls. In 2023, there were many fresh car sized boulders on the beach. It is to risky to walk along the beach - even at low tide, you'd still be far to close to the unstable cliffs.

Use the (very pleasant) cliff top path between these beaches and stay well away from the cliff edge! There are a couple of small detours to take you past recent cliff falls. [Aug-23]

Travel

Trains go from London Waterloo to Dorchester / Weymouth (on one route) or Axminster (on another), and take about 3 hours. If you need to return from the other 'route', consider Advance Singles rather than a period return instead. There are (were?) occasional SWT Promotions, e.g. £15 day trips in summer 2014.

X52/53 Bus : Weymouth (station) - Abbotsbury - West Bay - Bridport (inland, change for Dorchester) - Charmouth - Lyme Regis - Axminster (station). Hourly in summer.

The Jurassic Coast bus serves the entire route. Much more frequent in summer. [2019] Week tickets, and Week tickets and group (~ 5 for the price of 2) day tickets good value. Adult day tickets expensive. 2023 bus special offer: single tickets are £2

Take the X53 bus from Weymouth to Abbotsbury.

From West Bay, either return to Weymouth by the X53 bus, or continue to Bridport (2 miles inland from West Bay), and change for Dorchester (quicker, if its a good change).

Car drivers: Park in Abbotsbury village (free). West Bay's long term car park (just outside the town on Station Road) is expensive. Hive Beach has an NT car park.

Eat

Abbotsbury at the start has 2 nice pubs - The Swan, and the Ilchester Arms

West Bexington Beach

  • The Club House - upmarket beach cafe, same owners as the Hive Beach Cafe, just behind the beach, limited cafe parking, or large pay beach car park.

Hive Beach

  • Hive Beach Cafe - upmarket beach cafe with terrace slightly above the beach with a stunning view. popular, and deservedly so. Seafood Mains £15 - £85! But you can just have a cake and a coffee on the terrace. National Trust pay parking.
  • The Seaside Boarding House hotel, has a bar and terrace, and some free parking on cliff road.

West Bay at the end has many places. The Watch House Cafe is the only one right on the beach (same owners as the Club House and Hive Beach cafe above).

Abbotsbury

Abbotsbury is a picturesque historic village with some special tourist attractions:

  • Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens - very highly recommended. DT3 4JT. £12.50. Free with HHA membership. 2-4-1 with Gardener's World annual scheme.
  • The Swannery
  • St Catherine's Chapel (English Heritage, wikipedia). The chapel was built by abbots as a pilgrim chapel but survived the dissolution, as it was deemed a useful beacon. It certainly provides impressive views out to sea and around. Modern day visitors still offer prayers to St Catherine there, including one for a good husband (?!). Free entry (when open), but worth a visit for the view alone.
  • Chesil Beach Spit (wikipedia, geology, nature reserve). The town's beach is at one end of the 10 mile long Chesil Beach spit. It's a shingle (pebble) bar with a brackish laggon behind it, attached to the coast at either end. Continue on past the tropical gardens to the car park DT3 4JT. Cafe (summer only). Parking £3 when the cafe's open. The spit is closed Apr-Aug (so open Sep-Mar). Left is the start of the spit, right is the "beach level" SWCP route.

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Start Abbotsbury, Dorset Map Directions

Finish West Bay, Dorset Map Directions

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National Rail: 03457 48 49 50 • Traveline (bus times): 0871 200 22 33 (12p/min) • TFL (London) : 0343 222 1234

Version

Aug-23 Andrew

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