Saturday Walkers Club www.walkingclub.org.uk

Guildford to Horsley Walk

Viewpoints on the North Downs ridge

Length

20.8km (12.9 miles)

a) Shortcut to Newlands Corner - reduces walk by 3.0km (1.8 miles)

b) Using Book Two start - reduces walk by 1.6km (1.0 miles)

c) Shortcut through the woods - reduces walk by 0.8km (0.5 miles)

d) Diversion to Percy Arms - adds to walk 1.4km (0.9 miles)

e) Starting from Chilworth - reduces walk by 6.4km (4.0 miles)

Options b+a, b+c and b+d can be combined in the same walk.

Toughness

4 out of 10 – a couple of extended hill climbs

Maps

OS Explorer 145, Landranger 186 + 187

Walk notes

There are numerous fine viewpoints looking southwards from the North Downs escarpment, but less well known are the views to the north, where London can be seen in the far distance. This walk takes in both, starting with a climb over Chantries Hill and then carrying on to St Martha’s Church, perched high on the downs, You then descend to the village of Albury for lunch, though picnickers can miss out this descent and stay on the North Downs Way.

From Albury, there is a steady climb up to Newland’s Corner, another popular viewpoint, before a wooded stretch along the North Downs Way. To finish, the walk descends through beautiful upland country to the north of the ridge, with views right to the distant City of London on clear days. You end at Horsley station, from where there are half hourly trains back to Waterloo.

This is a good walk in any season, but in late April and early May Chantries Hill is awash with bluebells, and in high summer the slopes leading up to Newlands Corner puts on a fine display of wild flowers. In late autumn, this walk alternates plenty of fine leaf colour with extensive views.

Walk Options

a) Shortcut to Newlands Corner. If you are not planning to eat at either of the lunch pubs (ie, if you have brought a picnic, or if you plan to eat at Newlands Corner), you can save yourself 3km (1.8 miles) by simply staying on the North Downs Way from St Martha’s church to Newland’s Corner.

b) Using the book two start. Walk 13, Guildford to Gomshall, in the Book 2 section of this website provides an alternative route to St Martha’s Hill which is 1.6km (1 mile) shorter than the one described here. You don’t get the views and bluebell woods of Chantries Hill, but you do pass over Pewley Down, which is another fine viewpoint. You can download directions for the Guildford to Gomshall walk for free from this website: go to the Book Two section of the site, and find the home page for this walk. Click on a link at the top of the page to get the directions - you only need page three and four. Follow the directions to St Martha’s Church (point [3] in the book, paragraph 21 in the website directions), and then switch to paragraph 25 of the main walk directions for this walk on page 5 of this document.

c) Short cut through the woods. This shorter route from St Martha's Hill to the lunch pub in Albury has become popular with some walkers. It follows a wooded ridge for most of the way, while the main walking route goes through more varied scenery. It is 0.8km (0.5 miles) shorter than the main walk route. The option starts in paragraph 28 of the main walk directions on page 5 and the directions for it are on page 9.

d) Diversion to the Percy Arms. This 1.4km (0.9 mile) diversion off the route, which starts from the point indicated in paragraph 32 of the main walk directions, brings you to an alternative lunch pub. For details of the pub see Lunch below, and for how to get there see the directions on page 9. This option also takes you past the interesting ruins of the Chilworth Gunpowder Mills.

e) Starting from Chilworth. Starting from this railway station, which is just below the hill on which St Martha’s Church stands, allows you to cut 6.4 km (4 miles) off the start of the walk. You miss out the viewpoints of Chantries Hill and St Martha’s Hill but you pass the interesting ruins of the Chilworth Gunpowder Mill.

Transport

The walk starts at Guildford station, which is served by fast trains from Waterloo every 15 minutes (journey time about 40 minutes). Ignore the slower stopping services to Guildford, which sometimes leave just a few minutes later. Take a train at around 9.30am to get to the lunch options in time, though a train half an hour later would not be a problem for faster walkers.

Buy a day return to Guildford , which is valid for return from Horsley, which is on the slow line from Guildford to Waterloo. There are four trains an hour back from Horsley Monday to Saturday and two an hour on Sunday. On Mondays to Saturdays it is slightly quicker to ignore the trains via Epsom, and wait the extra ten minutes for the trains via Surbiton, but there is only a few minutes in it: the trains via Surbiton take just under 50 minutes, while the Epsom ones take just over an hour, so they arrive at Waterloo at almost the same time as each other.

If starting from Chilworth (see option 4) in Walk Options above) you need to take a train to Guildford and change there for the Redhill/Gatwick Airport line. Buy a day return to Chilworth. Stopping trains Redhill line are only every two hours, so currently the 9.00 from Waterloo connects at Guildford with a train that arrives at Chilworth around 10.00, and the next option is the 11.00 from Waterloo, arriving Chilworth at 12.00. If you want to get to Chilworth between those times, you can take a bus number 32 from Guildford to Chilworth station (15 mins). To find the stop, follow the main walk directions to paragraph 4, but instead of turning right between the navigation and the river, keep straight ahead on a bridge over the lock. Carry on down a footpath to emerge in front of the Yvonne Arnaud Theatre, with the main road beyond. Cross the main road and turn right to find the bus stop on the left in 50 metres. On Monday to Saturday the buses go at 20 and 50 past the hour currently, but see www.surreycc.gov.uk/buses for the latest timetable. Incidentally these buses also go on to Albury, stopping outside the Drummond at Albury pub (see Lunch below).

Lunch

The Drummond at Albury (01483 202 039) 8.8km (5.5 miles) into the walk, has a large formal restaurant area, but also some tables in its bar area where it will serve food, and – in summer – a garden with outside tables by the river. When the weather is less clement, groups should phone to check if they can be accommodated. The menu is a mix of more gourmet items (which are however not overpriced) and “pub classics”.

An alternative pub 7km (4.3 miles) into the walk - but requiring a 1.4km (0.9 mile) diversion off the route - is The Percy Arms in Chilworth (01483 561 765). Describing itself as “a country pub and grillhouse, serving modern British cuisine with a South African twist” it is more of a restaurant than a pub inside, but will serve food in its bar area as well as in its large garden. In colder or wetter weather, groups of more than eight should definitely phone to book a table. Food is served 12-3pm and 6-10pm Monday to Friday, 12-10pm on Saturday, and 12-6pm on Sunday, when there is a carvery.

A later option, 10.7km (6.6 miles) into the walk, is Squirrel Hill cafe at Newlands Corner, a cafe offering the usual tea shop items along with baked potates, salads and toasted sandwiches

The tea kiosk at Newlands Corner, to the right end of the visitor’s centre is open daily except Christmas Day and serves hot drinks, cakes, and basic food such as burgers, chips and jacket potatoes “until about 4.30pm” in summer, and 4pm or earlier in winter. It seems to be popular with bikers (ie motorcyclists)

For a picnic, the benches in front of St Martha’s Church (or the grassy hill just beyond it) 5.6km (3.5 miles) into the walk is one possibility, but by far the best spot is the wonderful downland escarpment at Newlands Corner 10.7 km (6.6 miles) into the walk. If you are planning to have a picnic at the latter spot, you can save 3km (1.8 miles) off the walk by taking the shortcut described in option 2) in Walk Options above

Tea

The best place is Newlands Corner – the tea kiosk or Squirrel Hill cafe mentioned in Lunch above, but this is relatively early in the afternoon of the walk.

At weekends you may find a tea van in the car park in paragraph 61 of the main walk directions on page 7, which serves a good range of homemade cakes.

Otherwise, a possible tea stop is The Barley Mow pub in West Horsley, 1.6km (1 mile) from the end of the walk. This is a cosy pub with a large garden, and does do tea and coffee, though the barman sometimes declines to serve it when the pub is too busy (or if he has had too many other tea requests that afternoon). In winter, note that from this pub to the end of the walk is all on tarmac – for the most part a tarmac path alongside the railway line. This path is unlit, but would be perfectly easy to follow with a torch.

There is sadly no pub or café in the vicinity of Horsley station. However, there is a Budgens on the corner that serves hot drinks, as well as quite a nice selection of pastries, and this is open till 10pm daily.

Points of interest

- It is tempting to think of medieval pilgrims stopping at St Martha’s-on-the-Hill church on their way from Winchester to Canterbury, but there is actually scant evidence for this. The church is on what is described as The Pilgrim’s Way on Ordnance Survey maps, but this turns out to have been romantic notion of Victorian map makers rather than having any great basis in historical fact. Chaucer and his pilgrims certainly didn’t come this way – in The Canterbury Tales they were in fact travelling down Watling Street from London to Canterbury: what is now the A2. Nor is the church you see today that old – it is essentially a Victorian reconstruction of a Norman ruin. But still, it is the kind of place you can imagine medieval pilgrims might have come, and maybe that is enough.

- The biggest mystery of crime writer Agatha Christie’s life was not the plot of one of her novels, but what happened to her on eleven days in the winter of 1926. On 3 December that year she disappeared from her home in Sunningdale, Berkshire, and the following day her car was found abandoned at Newland’s Corner, with her coat on its back seat.

The area was exhaustively searched. There were reports of “an agitated woman near the Chilworth gunpowder factory” - the ruins of which are passed on option 1) Diversion to The Percy Arms - but Agatha was nowhere to be found. The press went wild with speculation. Was it a publicity stunt? Had she committed suicide? Suspicion of murder also fell on her husband, Colonel Archibald Christie, who had fallen in love with a younger woman – Nancy Neele – and told Agatha he wanted a divorce.

Eventually Agatha was found registered in a hotel in Harrogate in Yorkshire under the name of Mrs Neele. She claimed to have lost her memory. She and Archibald got divorced and in 1930 she married archeologist Max Malloran. To the day she died - in 1976 - she never explained what she was doing in those missing eleven days.

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Trains

Out: (not a train station)

Back: (not a train station)

By Car

Start: GU1 4UT | Directions at 4pm

Finish: KT24 6QX | [Directions] at 10am

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Start walking Large print Using GPS data

National Rail: 03457 48 49 50 • Travelline SE (bus times): 0871 200 2233 (12p/min) • TFL (London) : 0343 222 1234

Version

Nov-16

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Walk Directions  

Full directions for this walk are in a PDF file (link above) which you can print, or download on to a Kindle, tablet, or smartphone.

This is just the introduction. This walk's detailed directions are in a PDF available from wwww.walkingclub.org.uk