Main Walk: 21 km (13.0 miles). Five hours walking time. For the whole excursion including trains, sights and meals, allow at least 10 hours.
Short Walk 1, starting in Amberley: 16 km (9.9 miles). Three hours 45 minutes walking time.
Short Walk 2, finishing in Amberley: 12¼ km (7.6 miles). Two hours 45 minutes walking time.
Explorer OL10 (previously 121). Pulborough, map reference TQ043186, is in West Sussex, 18 km SW of Horsham.
4 out of 10 (less for the Short Walks).
This walk climbs gently at first to give a panoramic view of the South Downs from the low hills above Pulborough, where it joins the Wey-South Path. This goes past two medieval bridges on the canalised River Arun, part of an important transport link between London and the South Coast in the early 19thC, and continues across the extensive water meadows of Amberley Wild Brooks to the picturesque village of Amberley.
After lunch the walk heads eastwards through the landscaped grounds of Parham Park, with its large herd of dark-coated fallow deer and views of Parham House. The many “Private – No Access” notices do not encourage walkers to detour off the public footpath to visit this fine Elizabethan manor house and gardens, but for the record it is open Wed–Fri, Sun & BH from Easter to mid-October; admission is £12 (2019).
In the next section you might see gliders taking off and landing at close quarters as you go along the edge of Parham Airfield. You then have the opportunity to spend some time bird-watching in the RSPB Pulborough Brooks Nature Reserve at Wiggonholt, which has a tearoom in its Visitor Centre, before a final stretch across the water meadows and alongside the River Arun back to Pulborough.
The water meadows are deliberately flooded in winter and can be boggy at any time of the year after heavy rain. This walk should therefore only be attempted in relatively dry conditions.
In the afternoon you can save 3½ km by heading directly to Pulborough Brooks along a quiet country lane, although this short cut omits the interesting features of Parham Park and Parham Airfield.
Directions are included (in both directions) for a route between Amberley village and its station, allowing you to do a Short Walk by either starting or finishing at this station. This link route is essentially the same as the end of the Arundel to Amberley walk (1–32).
Parts of this walk could be combined with other SWC walks to provide some additional options (for which you would need to bring the relevant directions). At Cootham you could switch to either the Billingshurst to Amberley walk (#8) or the Amberley Circular walk (#11), which take different routes up the South Downs escarpment on their way to Amberley station. And at the end of Short Walk 2 you could continue to Arundel, either over the downs on the Amberley to Arundel walk (2–22) or on one of the valley routes in the second half of the Arundel Circular walk (#100·2).
There is a half-hourly service from Victoria to Pulborough (hourly on Sundays), taking 1 hour 15 minutes. Amberley is the next station down the line but not all trains stop there; its service is always hourly.
If you want to take a bus to Pulborough station, Compass 100 runs hourly along the A283 via Cootham and the entrance to the Pulborough Brooks Nature Reserve, up to around 5.40pm (Mon–Sat).
If driving, the station car park at Pulborough costs £5.95 Mon–Sat, £2.25 Sun & BH (2019).
Take the train nearest to 09:40 from Victoria to Pulborough.
There are two attractive pubs in Amberley, after 8½–9 km. In the village the Black Horse (01798-831183) re-opened at the end of 2018 after being closed for six years. Its fully-refurbished restaurant is fairly expensive but it incorporates a Garden Room Café serving light lunches and afternoon tea. As the village tea room does not do lunches the alternative is to carry on for another ten minutes to the Sportsman (01798-831787), a pub with fine views over the water meadows from its terrace.
All these places are possible early lunch stops on Short Walk 1 but the Crown Inn (01903-742625) in Cootham is more suitably placed, after about 9 km.
If you start late from Pulborough and are doing one of the shorter variations you could stop for a very early lunch at the White Hart (01798-874903), next to Stopham Bridge.
The RSPB Visitor Centre (01798-875851) at Pulborough Brooks is conveniently situated for a mid-afternoon break and (like the Sportsman) has fine views over the water meadows. Its tearoom stays open until about 4.30pm.
If you get to Pulborough in time the Little Bean Café (01798-874777; open to 4.30pm Tue–Sat, 4pm Sun, closed Mon) is on Lower Street at the point where the route enters the village, about 1½ km from the station. Stronger fare is available at the Oddfellows Arms (01798-874888), a short detour off to the right. Ten minutes before the station the route passes the Chequers Hotel (01798-872486) on the A29, which is under new ownership and seems keener to attract passing walkers than in the past. There are only some fast food shops near the station itself, although the taxi office has been known to sell hot drinks and snacks.
If you are doing Short Walk 2 as an afternoon walk the Garden Room Café (see Lunch above) and the Amberley Village Tea Room (01798-839196; open to 5.10pm but closed Wed) are both good tea stops. Amberley station is well outside the village at Houghton Bridge, but there are two more places there: the Riverside Café & Restaurant (01798-831066) and the Bridge Inn (01798-831619).
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Out (not a train station)
Back (not a train station)
National Rail: 03457 48 49 50 • Travelline SE (bus times): 0871 200 2233 (12p/min) • TFL (London) : 0343 222 1234
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The directions for this walk are also in a PDF (link above) which you can download on to a Kindle, tablet, or smartphone.
Click the heading below to show/hide the walk route for the selected option(s).
Walk Options ( Main | Short 1 )
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- Main Walk (21 km)
Click on any section heading to switch between detailed directions and an outline, or the heading above to switch all sections.
If you are doing Short Walk 1 (from Amberley station), start at §5.
- Pulborough Station to Stopham Bridge (2¼ km)
- Stopham Bridge to Greatham Bridge (2¾ km)
- Greatham Bridge to Amberley (village) (3½ km)
- Amberley (village) to Amberley Station (3¾ km)
- Amberley Station to Amberley (village) (3½ km)
- Amberley to West Lodges (2¾ km)
- Through Parham Park (2 km)
- Parham Park to Hurston Lane (2 km)
- Route across airfield
- Route via Cootham
- Hurston Lane to Pulborough Brooks (1¾ km)
- West Lodges to Pulborough Brooks direct (2¼ km)
- Through Pulborough Brooks (1 km)
- Pulborough Brooks to Pulborough Station (3 km)
Turn left out of the station and take a footpath on the other side of a chainlink fence up to a road. Turn left to cross the railway and follow the road round to the left, then keep ahead on a footpath across a field. At Park Farm join the Wey-South Path, initially along the edge of a wood and then down to cross the A283 by Stopham Bridge.
After leaving the station building, do not go down to the main road but instead turn left. Head briefly towards the main car park but almost immediately veer right by a small bicycle shelter to get onto a public footpath on the other side of a chainlink fence, with the car park on your left and a service road to an industrial estate on your right.
In 300m this footpath comes out onto a minor road and you turn left, crossing over the railway. Follow the lane as it curves round to the left. Where it bends to the right after 300m, bear left onto a public footpath which climbs gently through a field, heading W. There are soon fine views of the South Downs and Pulborough Brooks on your left.
In 350m the path passes a WWⅡ pillbox and heads into some trees, where it turns left and then right to meet the driveway to Park Farm. Cross over the driveway and head uphill on a broad grassy path with wooden railings on the right. You are now on the Wey-South Path1, which you will follow all the way to Amberley.
At the top turn left at the bridleway sign just inside the wood, with Park Mound2 up on your right. Follow this attractive path gently downhill near the edge of the wood for just under 1 km, ignoring ways off, finally dropping down to meet the A283. Cross this main road carefully and continue on a lane past the White Hart pub (with a fine view of the medieval Stopham Bridge3 on your right).
Go past the White Hart pub on a lane which curves round to the left. Just before it joins the A283, bear right onto a footpath which goes across fields and footbridges to a pumping station. Follow the path as it turns past buildings, crosses the railway and comes to the A29. Cross over and take a footpath just off to the right which leads into and through a narrow strip of woodland and eventually reaches a minor road. Turn left to reach Greatham Bridge.
Follow the lane as it climbs gently uphill and curves left to go parallel to the A283. Where it swings left to join the main road opposite a garden centre4, go through a metal kissing gate onto a public footpath heading SE.
Follow the path past a bend of the River Arun, through some undergrowth and then across the river on a substantial footbridge. On the other side, bear left to head SE across a potentially muddy field, leaving it via a kissing gate. Go up some steps, across the River Rother on a bridge and past a pumping station.
The right of way now zig-zags through this light industrial area. Start by turning right after 150m onto a concrete track towards some industrial units. Turn left in front of the buildings onto a path with a hedge on your right. Go through a metal fieldgate and turn right onto a broad track5. In 150m turn left through a gate in the wire fence and go across a small field towards a bridge over the railway.
Go over the bridge and down to the A29. Cross this busy road with great care and turn right briefly along the pavement. In 25m go over a stile on the left and keep right across a small field. Go through a wooden kissing gate and down a slope into a long narrow strip of woodland.
In just under 1 km this slightly awkward path (along the course of an abandoned stretch of canal) comes out onto a lane. Turn left to reach the other medieval bridge on this walk, Greatham Bridge.
On the other side of the bridge, cross a stile on the right to go onto a riverside path. This soon leaves the riverbank and climbs to reach a farm track. Follow the footpath signs around farm buildings and eventually down into Amberley Wild Brooks. Head south through these water meadows for 2 km, initially on a grassy path and later farm tracks. Turn left when you reach Amberley village.
After crossing the River Arun, go over a stile on the right and up to a path heading S along the riverbank. In 200m the path leaves the river and reaches a farm track, where you turn right. In 125m bear right at the top of the rise. In a further 200m follow the track round to the left by the entrance to Quell Farm House.
In 150m the track swerves right and left past the last of some farm buildings, then comes to the corner of a small wood. Turn right as indicated onto a path going gently downhill beside the wood, then past Hayles Barn. At the bottom of the slope turn left along a broad grassy track. Finally, go through a metal fieldgate into Amberley Wild Brooks and turn right as indicated.
You will be heading S through these water meadows for the next 2 km. Initially the path is quite faint and overgrown in places, with plank bridges and boardwalks over some boggy stretches. Later it widens into a broad grassy path between ditches. After joining a potentially waterlogged chalky farm track it swings right, then curves back to the left to head S again.
Eventually you go through a side gate and climb a short slope into the picturesque village of Amberley. Pass between between thatched cottages and turn left onto Hog Lane to reach a junction with the High Street in 125m, with the renovated Black Horse pub ahead on your right.
The Main Walk continues ahead along East Street (coming to another pub in a further 800m), while Short Walk 2 turns right onto the High Street (with the Village Tea Room 125m down this road).
To continue the Main Walk, go to §6 (or follow the Short Walk 2 directions below to explore the village and then return the same way).
Go through the centre of the village on Church Street and continue on a footpath over the railway line and across the water meadows to the River Arun. Turn left and follow riverside paths to the B2139, crossing the river at the footbridge after 1 km. Go across Houghton Bridge (passing two possible refreshment places), then back under the railway and up the station approach road.
Amberley station is 1¾ km away and you could reach it directly by simply heading south and turning right onto the B2139. The route below is essentially the same as Walk 1–32.
For Short Walk 2 go down the High Street, passing the Village Stores. With the Amberley Village Tea Room ahead on your left, turn right into Church Street to head W through the village. Towards the far end you pass St Michael's church6 and continue down a short slope onto a path going below the walls of Amberley Castle7 to the railway line.
Cross the tracks carefully and continue on a grassy path between hedges. In 250m you go over a stile into the water meadows and turn half-left as indicated. You cross several more stiles and ditches as you make your way across these meadows (you may have to detour around some boggy areas). Eventually you climb onto a low embankment and turn left along it, with the River Arun just off to your right.
Continue along the raised path for just over 1 km to the substantial footbridge carrying the South Downs Way and turn right to cross the river. On the other side turn left and follow the riverside path to the B2139 at Houghton Bridge.
Turn left onto the road, taking great care as there is no pavement and the road is quite busy. On the other side of the bridge the Riverside Café is on your left and the Bridge Inn on your right. For the station, continue along the B2139 under the railway bridge and turn right up the station approach road. Cross the footbridge to Platform 1 for trains to London.
Go down to the B2139 and turn left under the railway bridge, then immediately right onto a footpath. This soon comes to the River Arun and you follow the riverside path for 1½ km. Opposite Bury church, turn right and head east across the water meadows. Continue through Amberley village to East Street.
Leave the station at the London end of the platform, coming out opposite the entrance to the Amberley Museum and Heritage Centre. Go down the station approach road and turn left briefly onto the B2139, passing under the railway bridge.
On the other side immediately turn right onto a gravel track, signposted as a footpath. Go over a stile and follow the path round to the left behind some park homes. 200m from the road you reach a low embankment and climb onto it to continue alongside the River Arun, heading NW. You now follow this riverside path for 1½ km, keeping the river on your left and passing the substantial footbridge carrying the South Downs Way.
Opposite Bury church on the other side of the river, turn right at a footpath waymarker post to head E across the water meadows (you might have to detour around some boggy areas). The path crosses several stiles and ditches, turning half-left after the second stile. A third stile takes you onto a grassy path between hedges which leads to the railway line.
Cross the tracks carefully and continue on the path, soon going below the walls of Amberley Castle7 and then up a short slope onto a lane going past St Michael's church6. Continue along Church Street through the picturesque village of Amberley, ignoring side streets. At a T-junction in front of the Amberley Village Tea Room, turn left. Go past the Black Horse pub and turn right into East Street.
Head east out of the village on a minor road, in 800m passing the Sportsman pub. After the last house turn left onto a footpath which goes down through fields and past the derelict Rackham Mill to reach a wood. Turn right and go along its edge for 150m, then take a footpath on the left cutting through the wood to a road junction. Head north-east on Rackham Street to the entrance to Parham Park.
Head E out of the village along East Street. In 800m you come to the Sportsman pub on your left, another possible lunch stop. In a further 500m, after the last of the houses and just before a ‘national speed limit’ sign, turn left off the road onto a public footpath. This goes half-right downhill across a large field, heading NE.
At the field boundary go through a hedge and across a ditch on a plank bridge. Keep ahead across a smaller field and go over a stile in the corner onto a path through a copse. This comes out in front of the derelict Rackham Mill, with a house up on the right. After veering left between these buildings the path heads N towards a wood, with views across the water meadows on your left.
In 250m the path crosses a brook on a footbridge. On the other side turn right at a three-armed footpath sign to go along a path just inside the wood. In 150m you pass an isolated house on the right and come to a waymarked footpath junction, with a path on the left going uphill into the wood.
This woodland path is now the suggested route, but you could carry on along the main path (the original walk route). If you do this it comes out into a small open area with sandstone rocks off to the left, Rackham Old School on the right and a lane ahead (Rackham Street); turn left onto the lane to rejoin the main route at a road junction at the top of the slope.
On the suggested route the woodland path curves right and climbs through the trees for 250m, heading roughly NE. On the far side of the wood bear right onto a lane and then immediately fork left at a road junction, signposted to Wiggonholt and rejoining the original walk route. In 150m you come to a pair of lodges on your right, with an information panel about Parham Park.
If you are taking the direct route to Pulborough Brooks (omitting Parham Park), go to §10.
Go through the gate on the right to enter the park and follow the driveway past a lake to a T-junction. Keep ahead on a grassy path, which later merges with the main driveway to Parham House. Follow this out to the A283.
Turn right through a side gate into Parham Park and go along its tree-lined driveway, heading E. In 500m there is a lake on the right (with a distant view of Parham House8 beyond), then a high stone garden wall.
The driveway comes to a T-junction, with private roads off to both sides. Keep ahead (slightly to the right) on a grassy path, the continuation of the footpath. In 250m the path curves left to merge with the main driveway to the house, which is now behind you on your right. Leave Parham Park at Douglas's Lodge and continue along the driveway9 to a junction with the A283.
Head east along the A283 and then either take the first footpath on the left across Parham Airfield, or continue into Cootham to visit the Crown Inn and then return to take a different footpath around the edge of the airfield. After the two paths meet continue along a grassy path which curves round to the left, then veers right through a small wood to Hurston Lane.
There is a choice of routes. The more interesting route goes across Parham Airfield where you might get to see gliders taking off and landing, but if you want to visit the Crown Inn you will need to take the alternative route via Cootham in §8b.
On both routes, take care in the vicinity of the airfield and stay on the signposted public footpaths. Gliders are quiet and can only take limited avoiding action if you stray into their path when landing.
Head E briefly along the A283. In 50m cross the main road carefully and go up the signposted footpath. Follow this enclosed path for about 200m, going over a stile and round to the left along the edge of Parham Airfield.
At the end turn right onto the grass, aiming for the right-hand edge of a field of crops up ahead. Head NE for 800m along the edge of the airfield. Eventually the other route joins from the right at a three-way footpath signpost in front of some trees, where you turn left onto an enclosed path.
Head E along the A283. In 350m cross the main road carefully to the Crown Inn on the outskirts of Cootham.
After visiting the pub, briefly retrace your steps along the A283 but almost immediately turn right into Dukes Row, signposted as a footpath. Go up to a row of houses and turn left, parallel to the main road and heading W. At the end of the houses follow the lane round to the right into Cootham Mobile Home Park.
At the end of these well-kept homes, bear left to take a potentially muddy footpath leading into a strip of woodland. Ignore unoffical paths on the left going up to the airfield and stay on the main path, which soon veers right and comes to a three-way footpath signpost.
Turn left at this path junction and follow the woodland path for 150m, with long stretches on a boardwalk over the muddy ground alongside a brook. Eventually the path emerges onto Parham Airfield and you continue around its edge. In 350m the other route joins from across the airfield at a three-way footpath signpost, where you continue on an enclosed path.
Follow this narrow fenced path around the perimeter of a large field for 600m, with a few sharp turns along the way. Eventually the path veers up to the right into a lightly wooded area, where you ignore a footpath off to the left. Go through a wooden gate and follow a short woodland path out to a minor road (Hurston Lane) at a bend.
Turn left onto the lane and then immediately bear right onto a bridleway. Follow this up to a house and all the way round its garden to the other side. Join its driveway and follow it out to the A283. Cross over and bear right onto a bridleway which crosses a lane and goes into woodland. Keep right, staying close to a car park on the right, to come to the RSPB Visitor Centre at Pulborough Brooks.
Turn left onto the lane and then immediately bear right onto a long driveway, signposted as a public bridleway and heading NW. In 600m ignore a footpath on the right and bear left with the path, with a large garden containing a long narrow pond coming into view on your left. At the end of the garden the path crosses a stream and turns sharply left to go back along its other side.
In 125m follow the path round to the right, joining the driveway to a house. This climbs gently and in 400m comes out onto the A283. Cross the main road carefully and take the bridleway opposite (slightly to the right) onto the edge of Wiggonholt Common.
The RSPB has bought part of this wooded common and is restoring its original heathland habitat. If you detour onto the new permissive paths through the common you will need to find your way to the Visitor Centre on the north side of the common.
For the direct route follow the bridleway signposts, initially bearing right to run parallel to the main road. It then turns left and you go straight across a minor road into more woodland. The bridleway is less clearly defined here but you soon pass a brushwood fence on your right, enclosing a play area. At the end of this veer right towards the Nature Reserve's overflow car park, leaving the bridleway which goes down a gully.
After continuing along the edge of the wood for a short distance turn right at an RSPB sign for the Visitor Centre into the main car park for the Nature Reserve. The Visitor Centre is ahead on your left, with a side entrance to the tearoom on the left of the building.
Continue the directions at §11.
Continue north on Rackham Street until it comes to a T-junction. Go straight ahead onto a bridleway into Wiggonholt Common and follow it round to the right. At a three-way path junction fork left onto a path which leads up to the RSPB Visitor Centre at Pulborough Brooks.
Continue on this quiet road for nearly 1½ km, heading N. Halfway along there is an unusual round house behind the hedge on your right, where the road bends slightly right. Eventually you come to a T-junction where you go straight across Greatham Lane onto a bridleway into Wiggonholt Common.
For the direct route stay on the bridleway as it curves gently round to the right. 400m from the road, fork left at a three-armed footpath sign to climb a slope. At the top turn left
Go onto the Visitor Centre's access road and turn left onto a footpath which leads to Wiggonholt church. Turn left onto a track going down to the RSPB reserve and follow a public footpath which runs across it.
If you are an RSPB member (or pay the small entrance fee) you can visit the reserve and its bird hides. If you do this, make your way to Little Hanger hide (where the public footpath through the reserve crosses the perimeter path and leaves it on a wide chalky track) and complete the directions at §12.
To continue the walk on the right of way, leave the Visitor Centre and briefly take the access road leading out of the main car park. Almost immediately, turn left onto a public footpath signposted to the Church, heading N between hedges. The path dips through a more open area and then climbs back up to the hamlet of Wiggonholt.
At the top turn left onto a broad grassy strip in front of the tiny Wiggonholt church10. Follow the grassy path past its lychgate and downhill. In 250m keep ahead across the perimeter path around the RSPB reserve, going through a wooden kissing gate into a field.
Continue alongside a low wire fence to the far side, then turn half-right as indicated to go through another gate and across the next field on a broad grassy path. In the far corner go through another gate and back across the perimeter path onto the signposted footpath opposite, a wide chalky track going down a slope.
Leave the RSPB reserve in its north-west corner on a footpath going across the water meadows. On reaching the River Arun, turn right onto its embankment. After crossing a footbridge over a stream, keep ahead towards houses and go up a lane to the A283. Turn left onto the main road, then go up a ramp on the right and cross a field to reach a lane. Turn left to go past the Chequers Hotel, across the A29 and along a lane. Just before a railway bridge, turn left onto a footpath leading to Pulborough station.
Follow the track downhill and round to the right at the bottom, going through a kissing gate beside a fieldgate into the (sometimes flooded) water meadows11. Continue along a broad and slightly elevated grassy path heading NW. At the far end veer right onto a path climbing a low embankment and turn right to go along it, with the River Arun down to your left.
In 750m the path veers left off the embankment and crosses the River Stor on a footbridge. From the top of another embankment take the left-hand of two signposted footpaths across a large meadow, a grassy path heading N towards houses on the outskirts of Pulborough. This later goes alongside a water channel and then climbs gently to the far side.
Go through a new wooden gate and up a narrow lane to the A283 (Lower Street), where there are two refreshment places nearby: the Little Bean Café is directly opposite and the Oddfellows Arms 100m along the road to the right. To complete the walk, however, turn left onto the road, heading W.
You can reach the station directly by continuing in this direction through the town on the A283, but the route given below is more interesting and not much longer.
Cross over the main road at some point. 300m from the lane, just before Allfreys Wharf, bear right up a ramp and into a field. Follow the tarmac path up the slope and round to the right (with a fine view of the South Downs behind you) to reach a lane.
Turn left onto the lane, passing the final refreshment place (the Chequers Hotel) just before the A29. Cross this busy main road with great care and go straight ahead into Church Place (you could detour through the churchyard but St Mary's church12 is usually locked).
In 250m, just before the lane crosses the railway, turn left onto a tarmac path (the start of the Main Walk) leading to Pulborough station. Make your way around the left-hand side of the station building onto Platform 2; go under the tunnel to Platform 1 for trains to London.
- The 58 km Wey-South Path runs from Guildford to Houghton Bridge, following the route of the River Wey, the River Arun and the canal linking them.
- Park Mound on the right of the bridleway is the site of a motte and bailey fortress, built shortly after the Norman Conquest.
- Stopham Bridge was built in 1423, replacing an earlier wooden bridge. The central arch was raised in 1822 to allow barges to pass. The bridge was still being used by traffic until the new A283 road bridge was constructed alongside in 1986.
- The South Downs Light Railway Society operates an extensive 10¼" gauge railway in the grounds of the garden centre on the other side of the A283.
- This is the trackbed of an old railway line, which ran to Midhurst and Petersfield.
- St Michael, Amberley is Norman, with the nave and chancel arch dating from about 1100. There are medieval wall paintings to the right of the arch. The church was enlarged in 1230 and much altered in a Victorian restoration.
- Amberley Castle was built as a palace for the Bishops of Chichester soon after the Norman invasion. It was owned by a prominent Royalist in the Civil War and partly destroyed by Parliamentary forces. It is now a luxury hotel.
- Parham House is a fine example of an Elizabethan manor house, with a large Walled Garden and 18thC Pleasure Grounds. To the south of the house, St Peter's church dates from the 12thC and has interesting box pews and Gothic revival features.
- A Heritage Trail panel beside the driveway tells the history of some of the more eccentric owners of Parham House, and its connection with a famous variety of apple.
- Wiggonholt church (which is undedicated) has some original walls dating from around the 12thC.
- The RSPB has restored the original wetland habitat by carefully controlling the water levels in Pulborough Brooks, which had become drier after engineering works to the river in the 1960s.
- St Mary, Pulborough dates from the 12thC, although the nave is 15thC. The church is only open for a few hours each day and is usually locked after 4pm.
» Last updated: September 9, 2019