The Lydd Ranges are closed this weekend, see here . Low Tide is at 14.08, so we will avoid the very most of the shingle.
Rye, Dungeness and Lydd-on-Sea Walk
Interesting coastal walk past an extra wide beach framed by sand dunes and an army range to an eerie shingle desert landscape with decommissioned nuclear power stations. Return by bus.
History
This is a list of previous times this walk has been done by the club (since Jan 2010). For more recent events (since April 2015), full details are shown.
Date | Option | Post | # | Weather |
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Sat, 05-Jul-25 | A walk like no other: Rye and Camber Sands, then back to Rye though the marshes or on to Dungeness and Lydd-on-Sea or Lydd [Swimming Walk] | 15 | overcast with a strong wind from side on | |
Sat, 15-Jan-22 | An Ancient Cinque Port Town and Sand Dunes (Rye Circular) | 10 | bright sunshine turning cloudy after lunch | |
Sun, 01-Dec-19 | An Ancient Cinque Port Town and Sand Dunes | 14 | partly cloudy clearing to bright winter sun | |
Sat, 20-Oct-18 | Guaranteed No Leaf Colours: Rye - Camber Sands - Dungeness Nuke and Shingle - Lydd-on-Sea or Lydd, or Rye Circular | 10 | sunny and hot for the season | |
Sun, 04-Feb-18 | a | A Cinque Port Town, a River, Camber Sands and Grassy Marshland: Rye Circular [New Variant] | 16 | overcast and cold then brightening up then squally |
Sat, 11-Nov-17 | A River, Sand Dunes, Shingle, a Nuke Plant, a Desert and Derek Jarman's Garden: Rye to Dungeness or Lydd [First Posting] | 15 | overcast |
Saturday 05-Jul-25
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Tue, 01-Jul-25
As for the diversion for seawall works mentioned on the webpage: these may have finished by now in the walked area and the works may have moved on further upriver.
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Fri, 04-Jul-25
Update: the diversion for works on the River Rother Tidal Walls East is still in place, and the gpx for the diversion is accurate.
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Sat, 05-Jul-25
14 walkers down from London (including an overseas visitor) assembled outside Rye Station, joined by 1 from along the coast (Brighton). We got going through the town centre and along the diversion due to seawall works, only the middle part of which is mildly annoying (tarmac path to side of busy road). Upon reaching Camber Sands, we were greeted by a strong southwesterly wind, a choppy sea and red flags, indicating no safe swimming.
That put paid to any thoughts some had had of doing just that: going swimming. The group stretched out a bit along the wide beach and when the turnoff through the dunes to The Owl pub came, some were out of shouting distance (the wind!), so only 6 turned left while 9 walked on. Some time after we had ordered our drinks and meals, we were surprised to see 2 of those 9 entering the pub, 1 of them with lots of bleeding wounds and scratches on arms and legs. Turned out they had turned around to join us but had not checked text or gpx file for how to get through the dunes in a safe manner, cue a few hundred metres of wading through brambles and bushes. Tick tweezers and anti-bacterial wipes were produced to help the 'casualty'.
On after the long-ish break, we knew that we would have some shingle to negotiate towards the end, but for the first hour of the remainder of the walk we had the very pleasant distraction of loads of kite surfers (and some wind surfers) negotiating the strong winds, some taking off to 'fly' for extended stretches!
The tide was coming in now and we desperately clung on to the remaining narrow band of sand or sand plus shingle that was good to walk on, always accompanied by the infernal noise of the crashing waves and the foam they left behind, as well as plenty of razorbills lieing about. Then, finally, there was no alternative to walking along the shingle, but not for long.
Past the nuke plant, the one or other who had thought about walking the extension through more shingle to Lydd were talked out of it on account of having to face into the wind on that stretch.
So, all 8 of us made it to Lydd-on-Sea in time for the 17.14 to Ashford, which 5 took (meeting most of the non-lunchers at the bus stop), while 3 went into The Pilot Inn.
That wasn't a great decicion in hindsight, as the 17.49 to Folkestone by design misses the hourly fast train to St P (we hadn't checked that). That left us time for another pub stop, on the plus side. Home after 21.00. A long day out.
15 overcast with a strong wind from side on
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Sun, 06-Jul-25
The non-lunchers walked up on to the embankment after the kite surfing area to be greeted by more vicious wind. Morale was low as rain hit us while we tried to find our way onto the firing range and find some shelter between the flood defence boulders to have something to eat.
We passed lots of rusty tanks as described in the directions, then eventually found the embankment path blocked by a thicket of brambles on which one of us unfortunately got badly scratched. But we located the gate on to the road down to the beach. I wa relieved to find there was a thin sandy band to walk along just by the water, and made good progress, now blown along by the strong wind. Others less confident about going so near the waves and ploighed through the shingle.
There were a few hundred yards of unavoidable shingle before the nuclear power station - it was interesting to walk round it in such close proximity. I enjoyed the last section though that was partly elation at having actually made it to Lydd! All 7 finished more or less together and just missed the 1614 bus, so we had plenty of time for refereshments at the Pilot before the 1714 and - for most - the very busy 1816 train back to London. Thanks for working out the opportunity to do this walk in viable conditions, albeit the wind made it a trial at times.
Saturday 15-Jan-22
SWC 154: Rye Circular (in reverse) t=swc.154
Distance: 11 or 12.5 Miles (17.6 or 19.9 km for those more metrically minded)
Difficulty: 4 out of 10
Train: Take the 9:34 AM train from London St. Pancras to Ashford International (9:41 Stratford International) and change onto the Southern service to Eastbourne (arriving 10:11 and departing 10:25) to arrive in Rye at 10:46. Return trains from Rye are at 48 past the hour. Buy a day return to Rye.
Rye is a charming place to start and finish a walk at any time of the year – so thought this would make for a pleasant outing in winter (also, I thought the marsh and dunes would be quite atmospheric and hopefully not too muddy). For a bit of a change, I am suggesting we do the route in reverse, so that the lunch stop in Camber falls later in the walk (after 7 miles/11km -ish). In reverse orientation, the route meanders through the charming center of Rye before crossing the marsh to Camber Sands and its magnificent dunes for lunch (there is a possible extension along the way adding 1.5 miles). After lunch, the route follows the River Rother back to Rye. You can find more information about the walk and download the walk instructions here. As we will be going in reverse, it will be helpful to print the map and/or download the GPX file!
The recommended lunch venue is the Owl Inn in Camber (0 1797 225 284) about 7 miles/11 km into the walk. There are plenty of tea and other watering holes in Rye….my personal favorite being the Ypres Castle Inn….hidden down some steps near the top of the village….
Enjoy the walk!
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Fri, 14-Jan-22
Anyone planning to go on this?
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Fri, 14-Jan-22
Yes, I hope there are others also. A bonus would be no mud
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Fri, 14-Jan-22
Somebody usually comes on most walks...
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Sat, 15-Jan-22
Well I've been on swc walks when no one turns up. Too risky.
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Sat, 15-Jan-22
Best not tell them that you are turning up then Gavin
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Sun, 16-Jan-22
10 walkers plus one dog assembled at Rye station after the Rye day tripper crowds cleared the area...As advertised, we set off on the route in reverse, taking particular pains to follow the suggested route through historic Rye. Nice to more fully explore the town in the morning rather than at end when also weighing up time for post walk bevies and trains....Then, down a partially hidden staircase we went and set off across the marsh in bright sunshine turning cloudy after lunch . The marsh was particularly beautiful in the soft winter sunlight....most stopped and visited the historic church in East Guldeford before carrying on...We reached the vast expanse of Camber Sands at the beginning low tide and walked along the beach and then through the dunes to The Owl where 8 enjoyed very tasty lunches and one and her dog later joined for a drink...After lunch, back through the dunes and down to the beach where the water was still miles away (could have definitely walked to Dungeness on the sand). Two extended the walk slightly by walking all the way down to (and along) the water line. We then walked up the path along the River Rother into Rye...where many of the usual post walk haunts were closed or packed....so one of the group made some inquiries and found us an outside heated table at Waterworks, a very charming CAMRA approved micropub before the journey home....A great day out -- the walk works very well in reverse and is not too muddy in the winter...
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Sun, 16-Jan-22
Yes, I'll tell everyone that in future, to increase the numbers.
Love the Waterworks, great beer and cider, in a beautiful old waterwork building.
Sunday 01-Dec-19
Distance: 11 or 12.5 Miles (17.6 or 19.9 km for those more metrically minded)
Difficulty: 4 out of 10
Train: Take the 9:37 AM train from London St. Pancras (9:44 from Stratford International) to Ashford International and change onto the Southern service to Hastings (arriving 10:14 and departing 10:25) to arrive in Rye at 10:46. Return trains from Rye are at roughly 50 past the hour until 21:52. Buy a day return to Rye.
Rye is a charming place to start and finish a walk at any time of the year – so thought this would make for a pleasant early winter Sunday outing complete with a visit to the seaside……The route follows the River Rother down to Camber Sands and its magnificent sand dunes for lunch and then circles back through the marshes to Rye. There is an optional short extension on the return leg. You can find more information about the walk and download the walk instructions here.
The recommended lunch venue is the Owl Inn in Camber (0 1797 225 284) about 3.8 miles/6.1 km into the walk. There are plenty of tea rooms and other watering holes in Rye to quench your thirst after the walk….my personal favorite being the Ypres Castle Inn….atmospherically hidden down some steps near the top of the village….
Enjoy the walk!
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Fri, 29-Nov-19
Hi, There does not appear to be an official short-cut described in the walk notes (just an extension) -- but, looking at the map, it does look like there is a potential "map-led" short cut from near the lunch pub which could shave off a mile-ish....
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Mon, 02-Dec-19
Simply, a fab day out in good company....Some came by train and some by car, in the end 14 plus one dog set off under partly cloudy clearing to bright winter sun skies for this breezy delight. The soft winter sun first on the river, then the sea, then across the marshes cast a lovely light on the seaside and marshland...with a just a few dark clouds lurking in the distance to add a bit of drama to the scene....
All but two dined in the Owl which served very tasty and upmarket food. The picnickers joined for a drink and we all set off back through the dunes together, save for 2 who opted for puddings and a shorter return route....
Back in Rye, we were greeted with festive lights and events during a brief tour of the ancient town before retiring with a bevie in front of a fire in one of the cozy bar lounges at the Mermaid Inn...the perfect end to the day...
Saturday 20-Oct-18
Rye to Dungeness and Lydd-on-Sea , or Rye Circular , or Rye to Dungeness to Lydd
Length: 21.7 km/13.5 mi or 17.6 km/11.0 mi or 27.3 km/17.0 mi
Trains from Victoria or Charing X to Ashford can’t be recommended, as they either just miss the connection, or leave only one minute to change trains!
[Rye] Too numerous to list here, check the pdf. [Lydd] The Dolphin or The George Hotel .
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Sat, 20-Oct-18
"More than 500.000", even according to the Tory-press, on the 'Final Say' march, but just 9 off the train at Rye, plus 1 other on an earlier train, who we caught up with after lunch. This included 2 first-timers, pulled in via our automated feed-through post on Meetup.
It was sunny and hot for the season , there was a little breeze at times, the tide was receding as we followed The Rother to the Sea and then turned left along Camber Sands, revealing a good 300m of sandy beach-width at that stage of the tide. There were horse riders, dog walkers, bucket-and-spade tourists, floatsome and jetsome, and even a few people in the water! The pub lunchers got to The Owl just after opening, a couple of others had drinks outside, the picnickers stayed on the dunes-backed beach (some of them went for a bit of a paddle, I hear). We continued after lunch all together, with the two first-timers falling behind soon though (as they had planned to: we met them again on the train back, they had walked out along the beach for as long as they wanted, then returned to Rye the same way). The tide timing was just perfect, the sandy beach revealed for as long as there was a sandy beach, which is to the far boundary of the military range. Then it was a mixture of shingle and sand, forcing us into a bit of a dance to try to walk on the sandy bits as much as possible. At long last, the Nuclear Plant at Dungeness, its Tsunami-Defence shingle wall and a concrete path around its perimeter. Never has a concrete path been so welcomed!
The first group reached the End of the Line Cafe at Dungeness at 16.00 hours, and - just after all had sat down - a steam train pulled in. As we left, the others passed the spot and we continued together. The steam train then departed for its return journey, back to Hythe, passing close to us on our final stretch. Our bus was to be the 16.52, and it was delayed, so much so that we needed a mini-sprint in Rye to catch the 17.47 (apologies to Miriam: you were right, we should have taken the 17.10 in the other direction to Ashford). And then, on the train, the sun started to set and the fluffy clouds turned all red.
All in: perfect. Rather perfect. 10
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Sun, 21-Oct-18
Those who slogged over the seemingly endless shingle yesterday may be interested to catch up with the BBC The Living World radio programme which was all about the Dungeness habitat - not as it might appear just lifeless heaps of stones but full of fascinating life.
Sunday 04-Feb-18
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Thu, 01-Feb-18
Rye to Camber Sands: #89 in ITV's list of Top 100 Walks in Britain (as shown on the tellie a few days ago)
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Mon, 05-Feb-18
16 walkers in all kinds of weather, from a snow flurry while waiting for the connecting train at Ashford, via short squalls in the afternoon, and a proper shower while we were at lunch to sunny blue sky moments as we sautered up Camber Sands; so I'd call that - during walking time - overcast and cold then brightening up then squally .
The posting wasn't perfectly timed, as it was mid-tide and incoming in the a.m., so the river was full and the sandy beach less than half exposed, but nevertheless I think everyone enjoyed it.
One walker insisted on booking a table at The Owl for the 11 lunchers, and that was a good idea indeed, as we had one their many nooks all to ourselves. Fine meals were had and the walk continued through the dunes and along the beach to turn inland back to Rye through the marshes, and soon into the wind.
A good contrast, I'd say, and 6 walkers then walked the previously untested extension to the nearny windfarm. One or two problems occured with being on the wrong side of a ditch (and therefore not getting out of a field where the ditch turned), adding a bit of distance, but we still got back in time for 3 to head for the 17.38 train, while the other 3 followed the route through the quiet cobbled streets of Rye. One last bevvie at The Goerge and off to catch the (delayed) 18.38.
Saturday 11-Nov-17
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Tue, 07-Nov-17
Just an alert about the Rye Fireworks due to take place this Saturday.
https://www.familiesonline.co.uk/local/east-sussex/whats-on/rye-bonfire-night-fireworks-display-2017
It shouldn't affect the walk too much unless you are coming back through Rye after the walk. The event can be quite rowdy and local transport can be affected due to congestion. Hopefully the walk be over by the time the festivities take place.
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Tue, 07-Nov-17
Thanks for the comment, Johnny. I wasn't aware of the fireworks. Timings are ok for the walk though: "Procession from Tilling Green Estate at 7:50pm, Bonfire & Fireworks from 8:45pm".
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Sat, 11-Nov-17
A walk of great variety despite - basically - just following a river to the coast and then turning left along the coast.
Route finding was not a problem, despite there being no writen direction, and Rye's Old Town was quickly negotiated, the impressive bonfire site passed and the Rother River crossed to turn right and follow the river atop the grassy seawall. A couple of walkers were left trailing on this stretch due to them birdwatching (it was low tide after all, and muddy riverbanks very exposed). We then met the sea at the stunning Camber Sands beach, complete with dunes, horse riders, dog walkers, seals (reportedly) and lots of sandy expanse. We passed along Camber village, assuming what pubs/cafes there were would be along the seafront, but they weren't. So we went back along the road through Camber to find them. We did end up in the Rye Bar Cafe (and The Owl pub was just 100 further along), which supplied us with tasty fare at decent prices pretty quickly. The walk back cost us about 30 minutes, which proved to be a bad thing at the end...
The next stretch to the Military Range boundary was very pleasant, along a new flood defence-top broad concrete path, with the waves crashing on our right hand side(the tide was now coming in, as the surfers went out). At the gate to the MOD range we found that - although the range was closed for firing this weekend, as the posting said - the gate was still shut anyway due to 'urgent seawall repair works'. The majority favoured climbing over the concrete seawall and negotiating huge boulders for a stretch to walk along the closed part anyway, one bailed out though and instead walked to Lydd, then took the bus back to Rye.
Now we embarked on the longest stretch of shingle walking of any SWC walk, too long for comfort and enjoyment really. [This could be avoided though by choosing a day when low tide is mid-afternoon, as one can then walk along the sandy beach; note to future walk posters.] To avoid some of the shingle, we stayed on the seawall for a while, where it bent away from the coast, passing many adornments of the military practice ground, from abandoned tanks to bunkers and even a tramway. The Dungeness Nuclear Power Station was still some way away, and spirits started to sag, but eventually we passed it and the following lighthouse to bear inland. We passed Derek Jarman's garden in darkness and met the other 2 at The Pilot Inn to take the 17.23 bus to Ashford, and then the 18.38 train to Victoria or the 18.43 to St. Pancras.
So, we survived one of the largest expanses of shingle in Europe, and despite some people's spirits sagging, I'd say it's been a great day out. Next time, posted on a day with a later low tide and with a more detailed gpx and maybe even a write-up, we'll find the pub/cafe no problem and finish in broad daylight.
overcast , with the only rain falling while we were in the lunch cafe, and 15.