Tenterden to Rye walk

A varied landscape between two interesting Cinque Port towns, from the low hills of the eastern High Weald almost to the coast.

History

This is a list of previous times this walk has been done by the club (since Jan 2010). For more recent events (since April 2015), full details are shown.

Date Option Post # Weather
Sat, 06-Apr-24 Wood Anemones and Wine tasting: Tenterden to Rye 13 grey and later a bit drizzly
Sun, 20-Mar-22 Wood Anemones and Wine Tasting: Tenterden to Rye 4 mostly bright sunshine with a few spots of rain in the afternoon
Sat, 18-Jan-20 Saturday Walk Two Cinque Port Towns and Wassailing an Orchard 8 notionally cold but very sunny and no wind
Sat, 20-Apr-19 Tenterden to Rye 3 warm and sunny
Sat, 04-Mar-17 Saturday Walk -- An Exploration of Ancient Cinque Port Towns 15 fairly sunny
Sat, 02-May-15 Bluebells, wild garlic and a dramatic finish in Rye
Sat, 31-May-14 Tenterden [Headcorn] to Rye 17
Sat, 03-Aug-13 Tenterden [Headcorn] to Rye 10
Sat, 21-Apr-12 Tenterden [Headcorn] to Rye
Sat, 02-Jul-11 Tenterden [Headcorn] to Rye
Stargazer

SWC Walk 113: Tenterden to Rye – Varied Landscape between Two Cinque Port Towns ending in Picturesque Rye t=swc.113

Distance: 13.4 Miles or 21.5 km for those more metrically minded

Difficulty: 5 out of 10

Train: Take the 9:29 AM Southeastern train from London Charing Cross (9:32 Waterloo East; 9:38 London Bridge) to Headcorn, arriving 10:33; then take bus route number 12, leaving opposite Headcorn Station (not the forecourt!) at 10:53, arriving at Tenterden at 11:17. Return trains from Rye are at 48 minutes past the hour (changing at Ashford for either slow or highspeed train). Buy a day return to Rye.

This walk covers varied ground from the low hills in the eastern High Weald to almost the sea, largely following the High Weald Landscape Trail. Starting in Tenterden, known as the “Jewel of the Weald”, the walk heads through a wooded valley with loads of wood anemones and then passes Chapel Down Winery (which offers tastings in its shop) on its way to the Isle of Oxney, an area of high ground which was once surrounded by the sea and rivers, before heading on into Rye perched up on a hill. On the way, you pass by Smallhythe Place, originally the harbormaster’s house when Small Hythe was a major port town before the River Rother changed course. You can find more information about the walk and download the walk instructions here.

The intended lunch pub -- the Swan Inn (01797-344444) in Wittersham has had periods of closure. However, it reportedly reopened in June 2022 but you would need to call ahead to check if it is serving food. Other options include the cafe at Smallhythe Place or as some of us did in Spring of 2022 after wine tasting at Chapel Down (at the time, 5 pounds per person for several tastes with a credit provided to the purchase of a bottle), enjoyed our picnics at their outdoor tables accompanied with a nice refreshing bottle of rose, I believe. Check with them before about picnicking on their grounds.

Tea and other late afternoon refreshments can be had at the Cock Inn in Peasmarsh. Rye also offers a variety of refreshment spots.

Enjoy the walk!
  • 06-Apr-24

    13 on this walk, a very creditable turnout given the train-plus-bus outward journey (which all worked fine). We decided from the get-go that the lunch pub was a non-starter (of which more anon…) so we lost a couple of people to sandwich shops in Tenterden. But they caught up later. In general there was “variable geometry” on this walk, people we lost track of reappearing, others never seen again after the first five minutes. I hope everyone had a nice day.

    Someone nicked the promised weather. Instead of sunny and warm but windy, it was grey and later a bit drizzly . Another “nul points” for BBC Weather. Most of the woods were invested in Battle of the Somme-style mud, at times with added fallen trees, like being on an SAS training course. Fortunately there were large field sections which were just a bit squelchy.

    Some stopped to taste wine at Chapel Down. Others had picnics and tea at the well-hidden cafe at Smallhythe Place. (Some did both.) Two of us had tried ringing the Swan Inn in Wittersham the day before, but got a generic BT answering message. The pub’s Facebook page says nothing about food. So we gave it up for lost. When we got to it, it was open with a couple of locals at the bar. If that is all the business they want, good luck to them.

    Spring is coming on like a truck. The wood anemones that should be a key feature of this walk were more than half over. Bluebells and wild garlic were more than half out. I saw other flowers I would not expect to see till mid month. None of this is good news from a climate change perspective.

    In Peasmarsh my group split 3:3 between supermarket cafe and pub. But the cafe had closed at 4pm, 10 minutes earlier, so it was 6:0 for the pub in the end. Afterwards we set off to wade and plod towards Rye.

    En route we saw a ewe that had just given birth, the afterbirth still hanging off her, the two bedraggled lambs wondering if being born was such a great idea. Most of the ewes we saw today were undelivered, however. Spring is early but lambs seem late.

    Arriving in Rye we summoned our last ounce of energy to climb to the Ypres Arms - now only a drinks pub, but who was complaining? One or two stragglers caught us there, including one who had caught the bus from Peasmarsh. After discussing food options we opted to stink out the 7.48pm train with fish and chips. Many then caught the party train to London Bridge, while two abstemious types (all right, one abstemious type and me) gratefully sunk into the comfortable high speed to lovely St P.

  • 06-Apr-24

    I guess no one saw Paul McCartney who I understand is a Peasemarsh resident.

Stargazer

SWC Walk 113: Tenterden to Rye – Varied Landscape between Two Cinque Port Towns ending in Picturesque Rye t=swc.113

Distance: 13.4 Miles or 21.5 km for those more metrically minded

Difficulty: 5 out of 10

Train: Take the 9:40 AM Southeastern Folkestone bound train from London Charing Cross (9:43 Waterloo East; 9:49 London Bridge) to Headcorn, arriving 10:46; then take bus route number 12, leaving from the forecourt at Headcorn Station at 10:53, arriving at Tenterden at 11:18. Return trains from Rye are at 48 minutes past the hour (changing at Ashford for either slow or highspeed train). Buy a day return to Rye.

This walk covers varied ground from the low hills in the eastern High Weald to almost the sea, largely following the High Weald Landscape Trail. Starting in Tenterden, known as the “Jewel of the Weald”, the walk heads through a wooded valley with loads of wood anemones and then passes Chapel Down Winery (which offers tastings in its shop) on its way to the Isle of Oxney, an area of high ground which was once surrounded by the sea and rivers, before heading on into Rye perched up on a hill. On the way, you pass by Smallhythe Place, originally the harbormaster’s house when Small Hythe was a major port town before the River Rother changed course. You can find more information about the walk and download the walk instructions here.

Unfortunately, the only lunch pub closed a few years back – so bring a picnic….. I will mention that the Chapel Down Winery does have a shop where one can purchase picnic supplies….Tea and other late afternoon refreshments can be had at the Cock Inn in Peasmarsh. Rye also offers a variety of refreshment spots.

Enjoy the walk!
  • 21-Mar-22

    A select 4 on this fine outing in mostly bright sunshine with a few spots of rain in the afternoon . As advertised the wood anemones were out in full force cheerfully widely open for most of the day welcoming the warming sun...towards the end of the walk, though, we noticed some small patches had started tucking in for bed...letting us know it was growing late into the afternoon....Also, as advertised, we had a good long stop at Chapel Down where 3 indulged in the wine tasting -- you now need to pay 5 pounds and are then entitled to three samples -- but also get a 5 pound credit if you buy a bottle of wine.....(our tasting host gave us a few extra tastes -- including some vodka made using the grape residue after pressing the wine...our vodka expert -- declared it a fine, smooth product...) We decided to buy a bottle of rose wine to accompany our picnics and inquired if we could have our lunches on the tables outside which was fine -- so we had a lovely and very stylish picnic in the sun on the outdoor tables at the vineyard accompanied with our dry rose in proper glasses...truly delightful! Later we passed the rather sad still closed pub...but...we peeked in the windows and it does look like some refurbishment is ongoing....so perhaps one day it will reopen....Since it had a been a long stretch since our lunch, we opted for a short break and late afternoon drinks (some hot and some cold) in the garden at the Cock Inn before the final push into Rye where we had just enough time to get some fish and chips before catching the 18:48.....on the way home one graciously shared a still chilled bottle of Flint Dry acquired from Chapel Down which washed the fish and chips down quite nicely...the long train journey was over before we knew it.....a fine day out in good company! Group cohesion factor 100%!

SWC Walk 113: Tenterden to Rye (In reverse) – Varied Landscape between Two Cinque Port Towns ending in Tenterden with optional Orchard Wassail t=swc.113

Distance: 13.4 Miles or 21.5 km for those more metrically minded (with options to shorten by catching a bus en route – see walk notes for ideas)

Difficulty: 5 out of 10

Train: Take the 9:34 AM Southeastern train to Ashford International (changing to Eastbourne train arrive 10:11; depart 10:25), arriving Rye at 10:46. The return requires a bus from Tenterden to either Headcorn or Ashford. All buses depart from near the Vine Inn: for a shorter bus journey (20ish minutes -- but more limited options), take bus number 12 towards Maidstone at 16:26; 17:39 or 22:15 – these connect reasonably well with trains back to London at Headcorn; for a longer bus journey (30-35ish minutes) with a few more options, take bus number 2 or 2a to Ashford – bus 2 leaves at 17:41, 18:46; 20: 55 and bus 2a leaves at 17:05; 17:52 or 19:55 – these connect (more or less) with trains back to London from Ashford. Buy a day return to Rye.

We had a request for a walk that involves wassailing (the orchard variety). A bit of internet research revealed that this is the weekend for it! Apparently, traditionally performed on the “old 12th night” according to Julian Calendar – 17 January-ish….to waken and bless the orchard trees….for a bountiful crop…Some further research revealed that a well-organised looking event takes place within striking distance of one of our walks….the one hitch being that you will need to do the walk backwards….to finish in Tenterden….The event takes place at Gibbet Oak Farm and involves torches, singing, dancing and general merriment. It is a ticketed event 5.25 pounds which includes a short shuttle service from the Vine Inn to the farm. If interested in the wassailing – do book ahead HERE to avoid disappointment. If anyone does go to this event, it would be interesting to know if it is worth keeping in mind for future years….

In addition to potential wassailing, this walk covers varied ground from near the coast at Rye to the low hills in the eastern High Weald, largely following the High Weald Landscape Trail. On the way, you pass by Smallhythe Place, originally the harbormaster’s house when Small Hythe was a major port town before the River Rother changed course. You also pass the Chapel Down winery that offers generous samples of its tasty wines. You can find more information about the walk and download the walk instructions here. Since you will be doing the walk in reverse, it is recommended to bring a print-out of the map and/or the gpx….
The original lunch spot for this walk, the Oxney Gourmet Pie and Burger Bar in Wittersham still appears to be closed. However, doing the walk in reverse, you could have an early lunch at the Cock Inn (01797 230 281) in Peasmarsh (4 miles/6 km into the walk). The Vine Inn on the High Street in Tenterden seems to be the center of activity – for buses and for the shuttle to the Wassailng event – so probably makes a good spot for post walk refreshies…
Enjoy the walk!
  • 14-Jan-20

    Train calls Stratford I'nal 09.41.

  • Anonymous
    14-Jan-20

    £28 return, as far as I can see.

  • 18-Jan-20

    This was always a guaranteed muddy walk, what with the route leading (after a quick tourist sojourn through lovely Rye) through the low-lying marshes of the Tillingham valley, later through plenty of woods, then across the Rother Levels and along the bottoms of beautiful shallow valleys (not forgetting the cattle and sheep churned areas around field gates and otherwise muddy fenced paths and tracks, and all this in the High Weald, famous for winter mud), yet with some fine-tuned routing around the worst bits, it was very enjoyable despite that: the beauty of the scenery and the very fine views from the many (modest) heights more than compensated for the extra effort needed to negotiate the course today.

    Walking in reverse and starting in Rye has the benefit of everyone being happy to look at the attractions there with a bit more enthusiasm, so for the first time (in my Rye history) we actually went into the church (a very fine example) and then also on to the lookout in Gun Gardens. With the only pub, The Cock Inn, coming after just 6 km, I had feared me might get there too early for them to be open, but - fear ye not - the sightseeing and the mud delays saw us arriving way after noon. A pleasant pub (although clearly a 'locals' pub, seeing how everyone stared at us upon arrival), with faultless food. After more than an hour, we moved on (the 1 picnicker had joined us lunchers for a tea).

    We walked map-and-compass led of course, while reverse-reading the pdf directions, so - combined with the walk author's trademark scarcity of bearings - this led us astray one-and-a-half times (thankfully without major consequences, the 'alternative' fields weren't any muddier than the route we should have taken and the route itself not much longer).

    Midway through the distance it was becoming clear that one or other walker not used to mudfests were flagging a bit, so they and their friends dropped out in Wittersham, where conveniently the next (and last) bus back to Rye was due in 12 minutes (we hope it turned up). Us remaining 4 eventually reached Tenterden (lastly through a brand-new housing estate) in the dusk (in reality it was dark to the east but still with some residual light in the far distant west), and with plenty of stars out, at 17.35.

    3 went straight into the first pub on the left (I forgot its name), 1 checked the bus times (they were indeed as per the walk post). 2, having just bought a drink, then changed their minds and hastily gulped it down to catch the 17.52, while the other two enjoyed the extra 54 minutes to the next bus in the busy but cosy pub, and then had a pretty decent connection to the HS train at Ashford.

    8 off the mega-busy train (Southern, go sort yourself out, crowded trains even in deep winter!!!! what's it going to be like in summer?) notionally cold but very sunny and no wind

    Oh, the wassailing: 2 had indeed booked up for the experience, but they were amongst the 4 that bailed out in Wittersham, so nothing to report...

  • teapot
    19-Jan-20

    Wonderful scenic walk on a beautiful sunny day. The mud made it tougher and it must have slowed us down because it was quite dark for the last half hour or more. But that gave us the benefit of seeing the bright planet Venus, helpfully identified by one of the remaining four, and then lots more stars come out. Thanks for the help through the muddy darkness, and apologies for leaving abruptly for the bus at the end after the nice companionship....

Sat, 20-Apr-19 : Tenterden to Rye 3
Dirk
Dirk
t=SWC.113

Length: 21km (13m)
Toughness: 5/10
Transport: Take the 9:40 train from London Charing Cross to Headcorn, then Arriva bus 12, leaving at 10:54, to Tenterden. Return from Rye at xx:47 to Ashford where there are many trains to St Pancras, Victoria and Charing Cross.

This walk is a nice stroll through Kentish countryside promising blue bells along the way and a superb ending in the old Cinque Ports town of Rye.

  • Anonymous
    18-Apr-19

    Is there a llama farm on the walk? I see some in the pictures!

  • 18-Apr-19

    There were some camelids (alpacas I think) in a field opposite Smallhythe Place in 2011. Things change, though. Some splendid apple orchards in Wittersham had all gone a few years later. Do let us know if the alpacas are still there!

  • 23-Apr-19

    After an ominous start with the bus engine overheating and the bus driver having had to stop the bus repeatedly to allow the engine to cool down 4 walkers arrived in Tenterden when one of them decided that this wasn't the type of group he wanted to walk with and stayed in Tenterden while the other 3 set off after having stocked up on "provisions" in a tempting bakery. Not long into the walk a longish delay was caused by Chapel Down vinery where several local wines were sampled. Fortunately, the knowledgable presenter told us that the burger bar in Wittersham has closed so we had lunch in the garden of the tea shop at Smallhythe Place. Later intelligence revealed that the community is exploring ways to reopen the burger bar as a community pub. Onwards we walked staying on the High Weald Lanscape Trail, bypassing Wttersham, through the varied landscape of the isle of Oxney through drained marshes, copses on elevated grounds passing bluebell and wood anemone woods, apple orchards in bloom and several fascinating churches (a round sandstone arch with leopard carvings separating chancel and nave ? Why ? The leaflet in the church did not explain.) Some places required careful navigation. But our eagle-eyed spotter saw the distant trail markers long before the man with the map could figure out where north is. After a quick drink in the Cock Inn in Peasmarsh we descended into Rye, enjoying fish & chips at the harbour before taking the 19:47 back to Ashford. Since the 18:47 had been canceled and it having been a warm and sunny Easter Saturday the platform was packed with visitors to Rye who barely squeezed into the small two carriage train. With only one passenger fainting we all made it to Ashford for the onwards journey to London. A great day out in great company.

Stargazer
SWC Walk 113: Tenterden to Rye – Varied Landscape between Two Cinque Port Towns ending in Picturesque Rye T=SWC.113

Distance: 13.4 Miles or 21.5 km for those more metrically minded (with options to shorten by catching a bus en route)
Difficulty: 5 out of 10

Train: Take the 9:40 AM Southeastern Dover bound train from London Charing Cross (9:43 Waterloo East; 9:49 London Bridge) to Headcorn, arriving 10:45; then take bus route number 12, leaving from the forecourt at Headcorn Station at 10:53, arriving at Tenterden at 11:19. Return trains from Rye are at 56 minutes past the hour until 21:56. Buy a day return to Rye.
This walk covers varied ground from the low hills in the eastern High Weald to almost the sea, largely following the High Weald Landscape Trail. Starting in Tenterden, known as the “Jewel of the Weald”, the walk heads through a wooded valley and then onto the Isle of Oxney, an area of high ground which was once surrounded by the sea and rivers, before heading on into Rye perched up on a hill. On the way, you pass by Smallhythe Place, originally the harbormaster’s house when Small Hythe was a major port town before the River Rother changed course. You can find more information about the walk and download the walk instructions here.

The recommended lunch spot is the Oxney Gourmet Pie and Burger Bar (formerly known as the Swan Inn) (01797 270 913) in Wittersham. Tea and other late afternoon refreshments can be had at the Cock Inn in Peasmarsh. Rye also offers a variety of refreshment spots.

Enjoy the walk!
  • 26-Feb-17

    The cafe in Jempsons supermarket is the best place for tea

  • 01-Mar-17

    I am thinking of doing this work arriving on the no 2 bus from Hastings getting to Tenterden at 1110.

  • 04-Mar-17

    15 on this walk. The weather started cloudy and at the very end turned rainy but late morning and for a chunk of the afternoon was fairly sunny , which made a nice change.

    The train-bus connection at Headcorn was very smooth: the kind of joined up public transport this country does not usually have. But the £4.50 fare was a bit steep. Tenterden was a lovely place to start the walk and the wild garlic wood in the early stages was coming on nicely. There was some cherry plum blossom and just before Wittersham the excitement of seeing a few wood anemones in flower. A few stopped at the vineyard in Smallhythe for what the French call a "degustation libre".

    The dowdy Swan is now a trendy gourmet and pie place. Super friendly staff and the food was certainly pleasant, though personally I think "gourmet" is overstating it. In the afternoon after crossing another former seabed two of us were surprised to be the only ones going to Jempsons in Peasmarsh for tea. I understand other would be tea-ers were shanghaied by other walkers keen to get to Rye earlier. Some also went to the pub in Peasmarsh.

    Sadly after we left Peasmarsh the weather went downhill: it was a bit wet and rather gloomy for the otherwise lovely descent to Rye. Eight of us had a quick drink in the Wipers Castle and got an 18.56 train.

SWC Walk 113 - Tenterden to Rye
Length: 21.5km (13.4 miles), with shorter options ** by bus
Toughness: 5 out of 10

9.31 train from Victoria (note NOT Charing Cross due to engineering works), calling 9.54 at Bromley South and 10.02 at Orpington, to Headcorn, arriving 10.43. There catch the number 12 bus at 10.53 from the forecourt, to Tenterden, arriving 11.19.

OR

9.34 Southeastern high speed train from St Pancras International to Ashford International, arriving 10.11. There catch the number 2 bus (direction Hastings) at 10.30 from the station forecourt (main entrance, domestic side, to the left when you get down into the underpass) to Tenterden, arriving 11.12.

Via Ashford types please wait for the other bus before starting the walk.

Buy a day return to Rye. As you will see the high speed train does not get you there significantly quicker on the outward journey, but having a high speed ticket saves you 45 minutes on the return leg: see below.

For walk directions click here.

As you can see, getting to the start of this walk takes a little extra effort, but it is worth it, I promise you, and hey, it is a bank holiday weekend, so don't you want to do something a bit special?

The walk starts and finishes in two beautiful old towns and in between traverses terrain unlike any other on the walks. Chief reason for doing it today is that it has a large wild garlic (ramsons) wood - see photo (not of this wood, but of wild garlic in flower) - that should now be in full bloom. There are also two good bluebell woods, one before Wittersham and the other before Peasmarsh.

Otherwise the walk makes a pretty descent to Smallhythe, where there is a small National Trust property and which astonishingly was once a port. It is way inland now, and your onward route heads out across big open country which was once a seabed, but with an ascent midway up onto the Isle of Oxney for lunch at Wittersham. The pub here is the only refreshment option apart from a cafe at Smallhythe Place (accessible to paying visitors only?) so it might be worth calling them from Tenterden to check they are still there.

Halfway through the afternoon you can stop for tea in a supermarket… Go with me on this one, because this is actually a very nice tea stop, as nice as any rural tea room. The walk then has one final surprise - you crest a hill and there below you is Rye, to which you descend, with panoramic views.

Trains back from Rye are at 56 past, direction Ashford. Don't get the train to Hastings in the opposite direction which goes at the same time. You get to Ashford at 18 past, and there Victoria customers have to wait 20 minutes for a 38 past train, while high speed train passengers have to wait 25 minutes for a 43 past. Despite this wait, journey times from Rye to London are nevertheless just 1hr 25 to St Pancras compared to 2hrs 11 to Victoria.

Last practical trains home, if you want to linger in Rye, are the 20.56 for Victorians and the 21.56 for St Pancrasites.

** SHORTER OPTIONS

This route is served by a limited bus service:

- If you got the Ashford bus and were quick, you could get bus 312 to Smallhythe at 11.18, see the National Trust property and catch the group as they went past an hour later

- Otherwise a 13.24 or 15.24 number 312 bus goes from Smallhythe to Wittersham (11.29, 13.29) or Rye

- The 312 also goes at 15.29 from Wittersham war memorial to Rye, if you have lingered over lunch and don't fancy walking any further

- Lastly Peasmarsh, the place with the supermarket tea shop, has bus number 313 at 16.38 to Rye. For three or four walkers, a taxi from the supermarket to Rye might also not be too taxing.


  • 30-Apr-15

    The walk notes say that on this walk you tend to be walking towards the sun throughout most of the day. For this reason I suggest packing a pair of sunglasses. However, this might not be necessary as the forecast isn't too promising.