Birchington to Herne Bay walk

Easy coastal walks, passing the dramatic ruins at Reculver

History

This is a list of previous times this walk has been done by the club (since Jan 2010). For more recent events (since April 2015), full details are shown.

Date Option Post # Weather
Sat, 03-Feb-24 Birchington to Herne Bay 5 overcast with sunny intervals
Sun, 20-Sep-20 Late start: Whitstable Oysters anyone? 13 perfect bright and breezy autumnal conditions
Sat, 01-Feb-20 Saturday walk - Birchington to Herne Bay or Whitstable 13 full sun and wind
Sat, 22-Jul-17 b Saturday Walk - Whitstable Oyster Festival – Birchington-on-Sea to Whitstable [Easy Walk] [Swimming Walk] 24 overcast with sunny breaks
Wed, 02-Mar-16 Midweek day walk - Birchington to Herne Bay 2 extremely variable
Sat, 02-Jan-16 Saturday Second Walk - an easy walk along the sea 6 drizzle
Wed, 20-Feb-13 Birchington to Herne Bay
Sat, 08-Dec-12 Birchington to Herne Bay
Sun, 22-Jul-12 Birchington to Herne Bay
Sun, 02-Oct-11 Birchington to Herne Bay
Wed, 18-Aug-10 Birchington to Herne Bay
Wed, 19-Aug-09 Birchington to Herne Bay
Mon, 25-Aug-08 Birchington to Herne Bay
Sun, 29-Jun-08 Birchington to Herne Bay
Sat, 11-Aug-07 Birchington to Herne Bay
Wed, 18-Jul-07 Birchington to Herne Bay
Sat, 03-Feb-24 : Birchington to Herne Bay 5
DAC
DAC
SWC Walk 28 - Birchington to Herne Bay
Length: 14km (8.7 miles)
Toughness 1/10.
Catch the 09:40 train from London Victoria to Birchington-on-Sea, arrives 10:54.
Buy a day return to Birchington-on-Sea. Return from Herne Bay xx:21, Whitstable xx:28
A very easy flat coastal walk with lunch at The King Ethelbert Inn, Reculver. West extension to Whitstable add 7km.
T=swc.28
  • 01-Feb-24

    I have been doing this walk today, Thursday 1 Feb, in the sunshine.

    Lots of birds to see in the first half. Oystercatchers and curlew on the rocks at low tide at Birchington. Later, beyond Mimms Bay, dunlin-type waders running up and down along the tide line, and also roosting on the beach along the sea wall, where they are so well-camouflaged they are almost invisible. You may see some roosting on the little shingle islands in the first lagoon you come to..

    Mixed in among one of the beach flocks were ringed plovers, who are even more brilliantly camouflaged - look out for beach pebbles that move! Also in this section about 50 oystercatchers roosting - a black line on the sea’s edge. All these roosting birds cunningly gather just below the sight line of most of those walking the sea wall track, so keep to its seaward edge to see them.

    The star attraction is the brent geese, however. These breed in Siberia and fly all the way here to overwinter. A flock of about 500 suddenly materialised as I approached Reculver and landed on the sea, forming a great honking flotilla. Then they fled back inland to feed or roost on the fields. They are dark grey, fairly small for geese, with a white tail.

    I am writing this at the HatHats cafe in Reculver, where a huge flock of sparrows is too busy cheeping in a nearby bush to notice I just had a cake they could have shared….

    By the way, trainers are fine for this walk. No need for boots.

  • 05-Feb-24

    Five walkers and a fur-child named Gwen on a breezy, sunny in the morning day. As described by Walker, we were accompanied for a short time by a flotilla of gurgling Brent Geese. Four stopped at the pub for lunch - friendly service and acceptable meals. The fifth companion and Gwen who sandwiched outside, were not seen again and I hope they enjoyed the afternoon section. The four divided into two groups of two but met up at a rather charming Art-Deco style cafe on the promenade at Herne Bay. Coffees and cakes home baked by a local were consumed. Three then made their way to the station with one walking on to Whitstable. A lovely day out with great company and conversation. Thanks for posting DAC. Debra

  • 05-Feb-24

    5 plus 1 dog off the train - reacquainted with past walking companions - one from over a decade ago, another prior to the unmentionable. 4 of us lunched at the King Ethelbert; the picnicker chose to head on to Herne Bay. Coffee stop at Herne Bay; 3 set off for the station, 1 to Whitstable. overcast with sunny intervals

Stargazer
Stargazer
SWC 28: Birchington to Whitstable (or Herne Bay) t=swc.28

Distance: 14 miles/23 km to Whitstable OR 8.7 Miles/14 km to Herne Bay

Difficulty: 1 out of 10

Transport: Take the 10:27 AM train from London St. Pancras (10:34 Stratford International), arriving at Birchington-on-Sea at 11:54. Return trains from Whitstable are at 49 minutes past the hour and Herne Bay 44 minutes past.

This is an easy walk along the Kent coast with the charming seaside town of Whitstable, famous for its oysters, as the destination. Since the weather has been rather warm and this weekend looks pretty good, I could not help but to squeeze in a final hurrah at the seaside….The tide will be low to start which should offer plenty of bird watching. However, by mid-afternoon high tide should provide for some nice swimming at Herne Bay and/or Whitstable….More information on the walk and the instructions can be found here.

Lunch: A picnic anywhere along the route or King Ethlebert Inn in Reculver (5 miles/8km from the start).

Tea: Plenty of options in Whitstable and Herne Bay with Mackari’s (in the bandstand) being recommended in Herne Bay.

Enjoy the walk!

  • 18-Sep-20

    I'm going. Staying in Margate night before, so I don't miss the train.

  • 21-Sep-20

    9 emerged from the "party train" at Birchington...most revelers having previously alighting at Whitstable (who would have thought it apparently a destination for birthdays and hen dos)....On the seafront, three more early arrivals were found, followed by yet another who had spent the night in the area...making for 13 in perfect bright and breezy autumnal conditions ....Some picnicked at Reculver and others dined and drank at the pub...Some headed home at Herne Bay; 4 went for a swim in the lively sea; and others headed direct to Whitstable....not entirely sure what each of the various groups did...but after enjoying a very pleasant dip in the sea the swimmers headed onward and enjoyed al fresco drinks and oysters in Whitstable where we encountered 2 others....eventually we caught the 18:49....dashing off along a direct route to the station....only regret being a Sunday...as it would have been lovely to while away the evening....

Length: 14km (8.7 miles) to Herne Bay with possible extensions to 18km (11.2 miles) to Swalecliffe, or 21km (13 miles) to Whitstable T=3.28
Toughness: 1 out of 10: almost entirely flat

9.40 train from Victoria (9.57 Bromley South), arriving Birchington-on-Sea at 11.17

You can also do this journey by high speed train, but it is only 8 minutes quicker and costs more: but if this is more convenient for you, get the 9.25 from St Pancras Southeastern platforms, arriving Birchington at 10.54.

Buy a day return to Birchington-on-Sea

This makes a lovely winter outing along the sea and entirely mud free apart from two minor places (based on my walking of it on 29 Jan). Wearing trainers is therefore OK. It has to be said that in the rain, particularly driven on strong west winds, this walk would be pretty wretched, however.

The walk first skirts around some bays with low chalk cliffs, and then crosses the wild marshes that in Saxon times were the Wantsum Channel, cutting off the Isle of Thanet. You are on firm seafront paths throughout this section, and you have the picturesque ruin of Reculver church straight ahead as your aiming point.

If the sun deigns to shine, the light on the marshes is beautiful. Offshore you can admire three windfarms - the nearby Kentish Flats (the first windfarm built in the Thames Estuary, which is directly offshore from Herne Bay); the huge London Array, which is far out to sea over your right shoulder (so long as visibility is reasonably good), and the Thanet farm directly behind you beyond Margate. Note also the black WW2 gun platforms visible out to sea beyond the Kentish Flats.

Walk directions are mostly unnecessary as you are following the seafront path, but they are useful just at the start of the walk, for a short section between Reculver and Herne Bay and to get to the station at the end. I have just (Weds 29th) updated these, so if you printed them off before that, take another look. The directions are below the lunch/tea and points of interest information on the walk's home page - the section entitled "From East to West". Print off the home page, not the pdf, as the pdf has not yet been updated. If you really need a GPX file click here, and for a map click here.

Lunch is at the very competitively priced King Ethelbert Inn, just beyond Reculver. Ditch ideas of gastro food when coming here: it is good honest pub grub (possibly appropriate for this significant day in our nation's history...).

After lunch, you arc up onto the grassy cliff top, with fine views. You can stay on the heights or descend to the seafront for the last section into Herne Bay: staying up is recommended, frankly.

In Herne Bay, the recommended tea spot is Makcari's - not the one on your left before the clock tower, but the much nicer one after the clock tower in the former bandstand. Just beyond this is the stump of Herne Bay pier: note its original ending, which is visible far out to sea: until the Second World War it was one of the longest piers in the country, designed to allow paddle steamers to moor at all states of the tide.

If you want to extend the walk you can carry on along the seafront for another 4km (2.5 miles) to Chestfield and Swalecliffe station, or 7km (4.3 miles) to Whitstable. See the walk's home page for refreshment options on this section. The map or GPX would be useful for getting you to the station at the end of these walks (Whitstable station being particularly awkward to find)

Trains back from Herne Bay are at 20 past the hour to Victoria, 44 past the hour to St Pancras.

Trains back from Chestfield & Swalecliffe are at 24 past the hour to Victoria

Trains back from Whitstable are at 27 past to Victoria and 49 past to St Pancras.




  • Anonymous
    02-Feb-20

    11

  • Anonymous
    02-Feb-20

    13 _with_w=full_sun_and_wind. At the station, there were 11, we met another at the lunch pub who took the High Speed train. Another took 12pm train, caught up with the group that ended the walk at Herne Bay. It was a glorious sunny day at the seaside with sweeping views to the distance. The walk had the benefit of NO MUD but would have been even better if it was done in reverse from Herne Bay to Birchington-on-Sea as the gusty wind was relentless. Lunch pub was full, we just managed to get a couple of tables. food was basic with reasonable prices. After lunch, two decided to walk back to Birchington with tailwind which proved to be a brilliant idea. The rest pressed on with headwind. Three stopped at Herne Bay and hardy ones continued on into the wind never to be seen again... Tea at Herne Bay and at seaside Cafe in Brichington respectively. The two groups met up on the train and enjoyed the journey back to London. A nice day out in good company.

  • Anonymous
    02-Feb-20

    full sun and wind

Length: 22.7 km (14.1 mi)
Ascent/Descent: approx. 70m; Net Walking Time: 4 ½ hours
Toughness: 2 out of 10
Take the 09.27 Margate train from St. Pancras I’nal (09.34 Stratford I’nal), arrives Birchington-on-Sea 10.53.
Return trains are on xx.28 to Victoria, and on xx.50 to St. Pancras I’nal (they leave Herne Bay 6-7 mins earlier). Buy a Birchington return.
This is the long version of an easy coastal walk - it is entirely flat - and the directions are straightforward and consequently minimal. It passes the dramatic landmark of Reculver, the remains of the twin towers of a 12th C church set amongst the ruins of a Roman Fort (free entry) and ends in the delightful Whitstable, which has its annual Oyster Festival starting today.
Note: this Festival has gained some notoriety for “excessive drinking, littering and over-crowding”, so we should fit right in.
There are opportunities for sea swimming throughout, and though the walk is almost entirely on tarmac or concrete paths, with only a 1km section beyond Reculver on grassy clifftops, there are still plenty of rural delights. After an initial section on the seafront promenade (or cliff top park) of Birchington-on-Sea you follow the raised sea wall over the flat marshland (a sea channel until the 12th century), along an unspoilt shingle beach which has interesting wildflowers and seabirds, and also fine views of distant shipping and windfarms, and the ruins of Reculver church as an aiming point on the horizon.
Beyond Reculver your path takes you along the top (or bottom) of a very pleasant grassy slope facing the sea, which again has interesting wildflowers, to the charming, if slightly faded, seaside resort of Herne Bay (possibility of shortcutting here, as well as in Swalecliffe) and on to Whitstable.
This is a walk almost entirely without mud. But note that there is no shelter, however, so in rain and/or strong westerly winds, it can be fairly wretched.

Lunch: King Ethelbert Inn in Reculver (8.3 km/5.2 mi) or a seasonal café 1 minute away or one of many pubs in Herne Bay (14-15 km).
Tea: lots of choice in Whitstable, but expect every outlet to be very busy (as well as the trains).
For summary, map, height profile, some photos, walk directions and gpx/kml files click here.
T=swc.28.b
  • Kelda
    23-Jun-17

    Great idea ;)

  • 16-Jul-17

    It is high tide at Herne Bay at 12.13 today. This means good swimming in the morning of this walk and early afternoon: after this time the sea retreats a long way over mud and shingle at both Herne Bay and Whitstable. So get your swims in early.

    The main beach at Birchington (not the first bit of coast you come to, but a little way into the walk) is actually quite a nice place to swim when the tide is high.

    From memory there is also a small swimmable beach at Reculver: possibly other places between Birchington and Reculver too, but this is where I remember swimming in the past.

  • 23-Jul-17

    20 walkers alighted from the train, amongst whom was a group of 4 first-timers. Initially we walked along the clifftop, but soon descended to the waterside cliff bottom concrete path. Up to Reculver it was overcast with lots of sun breaking through, and the sea was a wee bit smelly initially (must have been the seaweed and algae?). The many beach huts, some short sandy beaches and a cafe (The Windshack) were interesting features on this stretch, guided by the far away Reculver ruins.

    Reculver itself did not disappoint: some very good info panels explaining the history of the Isle of Thanet, the ex-Roman fort site and the ruined monastery church and its towers.

    On to the King Ethelbert Inn for most of the group, where we were met by another walker who had arrived on a later train from Victoria. Our seats were outside, the service was efficient and the food ok. Life was good.

    On to Herne Bay, with a windmill farm out at sea dominating the view. Some stopped at Makcari's in the old bandstand for ice cream or cream tea, others went ahead.

    The stretch to Whistable is then more built-up, but still has a grassy nature reserve on offer. By now it was completely overcast and the threat of rain was in the air. Up to the top of Tankerton Slopes, where the Oyster Festival has been relocated this year after too many protests from businesses and residents in the centre of Whitstable. It consisted of some fairground attractions and lots of food stalls, but - bizarrely - only one oyster stall!

    Just as we had convinced ourselves that we should move on to the centre to check out the offerings there, a heavy 15 minute downpour started, splitting the remining group in the rush to put on waterproofs or to find shelter.

    About two handfuls reunited at the Lobster Shack, initially outside, then migrating inside when a table was freed up. There we stayed for quite a while, rotating in placing more orders for seafood and drink.

    We had already linked up with three other SWC stalwarts who had walked in from Herne Bay, taking to the sea along the way for a revogorating swim, but they decided to keep exploring the delightful Whistatble.

    Most of the Lobster Shack group then let another train go, prefering to sit on the pebble beach outside the Whitstable Oyster Bar with one last drink, taking in the couldscapes and the sun's rays breaking through them.

    20.50 train for those.

    So, 24 in total, with the weather overcast with sunny breaks for the fast walkers that got to Whitstable before the downpour.

Mike A

Birchington to Herne Bay - Keep the sea on your right

Easy coastal walk, passing the dramatic ruins at Reculver

Book 3* Walk 28

*On-line only
Length : 14 km or 9 miles

Toughness : 1 out of 10

Getting there : Catch the 10:27 am train from St. Pancras International (10:34 am Stratford International) to Birchington-on-Sea or
Catch the 10:07 from London Victoria (10:23 am Bromley South) changing at Rochester to join the St. Pancras train.
High speed train fares are now about £5 more than standard fares and I seem to remember someone managed to upgrade on a return journey for the difference, before the HST joined the Ashford to St. Pancras track. (Train aficionados comments welcome!)

Meeting point : Birchington-on-Sea Station at 11:53 am

Tickets : Buy a cheap day return to Birchington-on-Sea

Brief Description

It is possible to do this walk in reverse to avoid the prevailing winds, but hey, we're the Saturday Walkers! - Herne Bay also sports the better tea stop options.
For those of you wanting to extend the walk, you may carry onto Whitstable, adding about 7 km to the walk. (If I recall correctly, there's an excellent Chippy in Whitstable. )

You may find full details of this walk here

Suggested Lunch stops

King Ethelbert Inn, Reculver Lane CT6 6SU, t: 01227 374368
The Dolphin Bar & Restaurant t: 01227 504 987

Suggested Tea stops

Makcaris 54, Central Parade, Herne Bay t: 01227 374 977 - open to 6:00 pm
Additionally, Herne Bay has several pubs: just beyond the clock tower on the left the Saxon Shore is a very pleasant Wetherspoon's outlet.

Map

OS Explorer : 150

Return train times

Trains return from Herne Bay at 44 minutes past the hour to London St. Pancras ( journey time 1 hour 26 minutes ) and to London Victoria at 16:12 | 17:16 | 18:16 ( journey time 1 hour 40 minutes )

Trains return from Whitstable at 50 minutes past the hour to London St. Pancras and to London Victoria at 16:19 | 17:23 | 18:23
  • Marion
    29-Feb-16

    Journey time for me from Victoria of 2 and a half hours and a cold wet and windy forecast will mean I shall be joining the West London Ramblers today if I can face the weather at all!

  • Anonymous
    02-Mar-16

    This walks was too much of a trek for me too especeially as i like to get back for dancing in the evenings.

    Also some people who like to attend these walks are between jobs and walks that are so far away can be pricey ticketwise.jfk

  • 02-Mar-16

    2 hardy souls on this trek. The weather was extremely variable with a microburst of hail and strong gusty winds as we left Birchington - but just for 10 minutes. Intrepid walker 2 was heard to mutter "We must be insane" as we huddled in a bus shelter. However the hail and rain ceased and the wind dropped and the sun shone as we approached Reculver. During a hearty meal at the King Ethelbert Inn, another shower rolled in and the wind increased. It was a little challenging as we walked onto Herne Bay, but the sun re-appeared on our approach. We stopped for a welcome break and a drink at Makcaris before catching the 4:44pm back to London.

    All in all an invigorating and exhilarating outing, but not for the faint hearted.

    HST train fares were £18.40 with a card.

Walker
SWC walk 28 - Birchington to Herne Bay
Length: 14km (8.7 miles)
Toughness: 1 out of 10

9.37 train from Victoria (9.53 Bromley South), arriving Birchington-on-Sea at 11.14

Buy a day return to Birchington-on-Sea.

This is a very simple walk along the sea. If the weather cooperates it makes a rather glorious winter outing, with views of marsh and estuary in the morning, the ruins of Reculver as an aiming point, a cheap and cheerful lunch pub, and then a very gentle walk over low cliffs to Herne Bay in the afternoon. See photos of this walk for what it can be like.

It is fair to say that if the weather is wet and windy, however, it has absolutely no shelter whatsoever. And you are going west, so strong winds from the west will be straight in your face.

When you first see the four lines of walk directions (at the bottom of the home page for this walk) you will think they are a joke, but this really is all you need to do this walk. The morning is all on tarmac paths - so no mud - but in fine wild scenery after the first kilometre or so. In the afternoon you are on grassy paths, but these too are usually pretty firm underfoot.

Herne Bay has various cheerful tea places, not mentioned in the walk document - a large cafe on the seafront whose name escapes me, or try the structure on the prom about 100 metres beyond the clocktower (a former bandstand and open air dance hall?) which has another nice cafe.

Trains back are at 21 past to Victoria and 44 past to St Pancras: for the latter train you need to have paid the high speed supplement (and you can't have a boundary zone ticket), but any ticket holder can take St Pancras trains to Faversham and change there (arrive 58, depart 03) for a Victoria train.

  • 25-Dec-15

    "And you are going east, so strong winds from the west will be straight in your face." Actually you're going west, so you will indeed be facing those westerly winds.

  • 27-Dec-15

    Thanks, Chris. I have corrected the post.

  • Anonymous
    29-Dec-15

    anyone planning on going? this sounds like a great one

    thanks

  • Anonymous
    30-Dec-15

    To have the wind at our back, shouldn't we be starting at Herne Bay?

  • 30-Dec-15

    Actually, looking at the current weather forecast (which is alas quite wet at time of writing) it would not help to reverse the walk, as the wind is due to come from the south. The problem with doing the walk in reverse is also that Birchington has no tea places, as far as I am aware, though Westgate on Sea just over a mile further on MAY (repeat MAY) have a beachfront cafe open: another mile and three quarters takes you to Margate.

    The main objection to reversing the direction of the walk, however, is that it will create confusion amongst those going on it, splitting the group into those that start at Herne Bay and those that start at Birchington.

    Given that it is a southerly wind anyway, I would stick to the Birchington start.

  • 06-Jan-16

    6

    drizzle

    Weather not as forecast. In fact there was only light drizzle towards the end of the walk. The tide was out so the rock pools (at the beginning of the walk) looked very attractive in the Winter light. If you get excited by Saxon churches - commes moi - there is one on this walk, albeit a ruin. Lots of interesting information boards on the Herne Bay seafront were read by two of us before we had a nice cup of tea at a pub by the station. The only down side to this walk was the amount of unpicked up dog mess.