Cowden to Hever walk

A contrast between a remote part of the Weald and three attractive and popular Kent villages.

History

This is a list of previous times this walk has been done by the club (since Jan 2010). For more recent events (since April 2015), full details are shown.

Date Option Post # Weather
Wed, 14-Jun-23 Wednesday walk - Cowden to Hever 18 glorious sunny day
Sat, 16-Apr-22 Cowden to Hever - a little slice of springtime heaven 21 gorgeous sunny day
Sun, 16-Jan-22 Sunday walk - Cowden to Hever 16 overcast with increasing sunny periods in the afternoon windless and mild
Sat, 18-May-19 Cowden to Hever 8 calm warm though mainly cloudy
Sun, 21-Oct-18 Sunday Walk: Cowden to Hever 18 fine and sunny
Sun, 29-Apr-18 Sunday Walk – Bluebells in the Weald (Cowden-Hever) 9 cold damp and gloomy
Sat, 10-Jun-17 Cowden to Hever - a Kentish castles walk 40 glorious sunny weather with an occasional breeze
Sat, 10-Sep-16 Saturday Second Walk - Wolf Hall territory in the High Weald 14 cloudy but warm and not wet till 4pm
Sat, 25-Oct-14 Cowden to Hever 35
Sun, 18-Aug-13 Cowden to Hever 10
Sat, 17-Mar-12 Cowden to Hever
Sun, 13-Nov-11 a Cowden Circular, omitting Penshurst
Sun, 13-Nov-11 ? Cowden to Hever, omitting Penshurst
Sat, 21-Aug-10 a Cowden Circular, omitting Chiddingstone
Wed, 05-May-10 ? Cowden Circular (short walk) - withdrawn
Sun, 11-Apr-10 Cowden to Hever
Sun, 16-Aug-09 Cowden to Hever
Wed, 14-Jun-23 : Wednesday walk - Cowden to Hever 18
Wanderer
Wanderer

T=swc.78

Length: Main walk: 16.5km (10.3 miles) with options to shorten.

Difficulty: 4 out of 10

This walk starts from a lonely station and wends its way through remote valleys, woods and tiny settlements in the undulating landscape of the High Weald. It descends into the Eden Valley for refreshment stops in the beautiful villages of Penshurst and Chiddingstone, before ending in Hever. Each of these three villages has an interesting church which is worth visiting, as well as a popular historic house open to the public.

Trains: Catch the 10.07 Uckfield train from London Bridge (East Croydon 10.22), arriving Cowden 10.53. Return trains from Hever run hourly at XX.05.

Buy a return to Cowden.

Lunch: In Penshurst village, after about 7 km the Leicester Arms Hotel (01892-871617) is suggested for a pub lunch. The Porcupine Pantry at the entrance to Penshurst Place serves sandwiches, baguettes, hot and cold drinks.

Later in the walk, at Chiddingstone, the Castle Inn (01892-87037) is another possibility. It's under new ownership and website is currently under constructio.

Tea: the suggested tea place is the Tulip Tree (01892-870326) in Chiddingstone. Chiddingstone Castle also has a Tea Room (01892-870347) open to non-visitors.

Directions, map and GPS here

  • 15-Jun-23

    18 off the train in Cowden on a glorious sunny day . We were quickly off the road and walking along quiet lanes and paths, a world away from city life. Many of the paths were shaded by trees in full leaf and with a pleasant breeze it was comfortable walking weather. 14 had a picnic in Penshurst churchyard, 2 lunched at the Leicester Arms. The group stretched out a bit in the afternoon with some rushing to get early trains home. Eight visited the tearoom tucked away at the back of Chiddingstone castle for tea/coffee and cake. All were enthusiastic about the setting - a shaded courtyard with comfortable seating. Service was quick and efficient. (It's only open Sunday - Wednesday during the summer months). One hurried off to catch the 4.05 train. The other seven were not in a hurry and had a short stroll through the gardens guided by the walk author before ambling on to Hever. We had time for refreshment at the Heny VIII before heading for the station where we caught the 17.05 back to London along with three others who had gone to the Tulip tearoom. A lovely day in beautiful countryside with hardly any traffic and good refreshment options. Thanks to the walk author who devised it.

Length: 16.2km (10.3 miles) or 19.8km (12.3 miles) T=swc.78
10.22 train from East Croydon * to Cowden, arriving 10.53.

* This train actually starts from East Croydon today. The railway planner suggests a connecting Thameslink train calling at Finsbury Park at 9.38, St Pancras Thameslink at 9.45 and London Bridge at 10.00, arriving East Croydon at 10.14. But Thameslink trains can be a tad unreliable and the Cowden train is only hourly, so you might want to leave a bigger margin of error to make the connection.

London Bridge may be rather busy today, since engineering works mean all Southern trains that normally start from Victoria are starting from there: so if you can buy your ticket elsewhere or in advance, do. The same engineering works mean there are NO direct trains from Clapham Junction to East Croydon.
Buy a day return to Cowden

For walk directions click here, for GPX click here, for a map of the route click here

What with rail engineering works, it has been a challenge picking a walk this week, so bear with me. Not that I think this walk is a substandard choice. Where better to be in the early springtime than the Weald? You are in delightful territory from the moment you step off the train at the completely remote rural Cowden station (not a house in sight...). I have no record of early bluebells or late wood anemones on this walk, but there may be some. There will be lots of little climbs and hidden woods, alive with the bright green of new foliage. Birds will sing. The mud will have dried (in case any have bad memories of doing this walk in winter).
It is Easter Saturday, and pubs may be busy/booked. Bring emergency provisions just in case, says I. There is a possible early stop at the Rock Inn in Hill Hoath, but the best placed lunch pub is the Leicester Arms in Penshurst. The cafe at the nearby Penshurst Place (not on the walk, but a short walk from the village) should be open. The Fir Tree House in the village may or may not be still in business: if so, it opens at 2.30pm.
Later tea and pub options are in Chiddingstone (particularly the scrumptious Tulip Tea Room) and there is even a shortcut route if you want to get there earlier (see walk directions). There is a pub in Hever village (a short way from the station). In fact, study the walk directions for all sorts of possible variants on this walk.
The longer 12.3 mile option is a circular route back to Cowden, which has at least one pub - the Kentish Horse - which is open all afternoon for drinks (and from 6pm for food).
Trains back from Cowden are at 00 past the hour, and from Hever at 05 past
  • 16-Apr-22

    21 on this walk on a gorgeous sunny day . No winds. No clouds. Only a very few patches of stubborn mud.

    The walk was very idyllic. There were some little and not so little bluebell woods, the best of them about half out, but most less. Patches of wild garlic (a tiny bit in flower) and other woodland wonders. Lots of eye-aching green foliage. Maybe not as many butterflies as I hoped for but a good number of orange tips. Thanks to the walk creator too for alerting me to two swallows sat on a telephone wire, the first I have seen this year. They looked a bit zonked from their long journey from South Africa. Or perhaps they were just enjoying the sunshine.

    I did not have the highest hopes of getting lunch at the Leicester Arms, but kudos to them for adapting to the Easter weekend market. They had eight staff devoted to serving food on their garden terraces (the inside tables were deserted) and you could order at an outside bar. There was also a paella on the go and a van serving bacon butties and coffee. A very efficient operation.

    In the afternoon quite a few of us stopped at the Tulip Tea Rooms, who have expanded their outside seating with a new back patio. It was then a lovely walk in golden light to Hever.

    Here some people were in an inexplicable rush to get the 5pm train, but at least five people carried on to Cowden. Three of us stopped for a drink at the Kentish Horse in Markbeech, its garden bathed in evening sunshine.

    Alas the mad urge to rush for trains soon overtook my two companions and they sped off to get the 6pm, me dragging my heels in the hope they would leave me behind so I could stay another hour in paradise. But they kept stopping to wait for me, so in the end I got the 6pm too - rather crowded (just a four car train for some reason) and so a rather jarring reintroduction to urban living.

Sun, 16-Jan-22 : Sunday walk - Cowden to Hever 16
Wanderer
Wanderer

t=swc.78

Length: Main walk: 16.5km (10.3 miles) with options to shorten.

Difficulty: 4 out of 10

This walk starts from a lonely station and wends its way through remote valleys, woods and tiny settlements in the undulating landscape of the High Weald. It descends into the Eden Valley for refreshment stops in the beautiful villages of Penshurst and Chiddingstone, before ending in Hever. Each of these three villages has an interesting church which is worth visiting, as well as a popular historic house open to the public.

Trains: Catch the 9.51 East Grinstead train from Victoria, (Clapham Junction 9.58, East Croydon 10.09, changing at Oxted to catch the 10.38 from platform 3 to Cowden, arriving 10.55.

Return trains from Hever run hourly at XX.07.

Buy a return to Cowden.

Lunch: For those wanting a pub lunch, the Leicester Arms Hotel (01892-871617) In Penshurst village is reached after about 7 km.

Later in the walk, at Chiddingstone, the Castle Inn (01892-870371) is another possibility.

The Porcupine Pantry at the entrance to Penshurst Place may have tea/coffee and snacks.

Tea: the suggested tea place is the Tulip Tree (01892-870326) in Chiddingstone.

  • 16-Jan-22

    16 off the train at Cowden for a good day's walk under overcast with increasing sunny periods in the afternoon windless and mild . We began with a pleasant tramp across fields, with extensive views north, then through woods with some muddy patches, reaching Hoath Corner after which the path became even muddier until we gained the tarmac safety of Penshurst. At least three lunched in the Leicester Arms (reports welcome) while the rest picnicked alfresco in the churchyard. The post-lunch walk towards Chiddingstone started off on tarmac, then gravel, then the hard-packed earth and, on the final stretch, shin-deep mud. And yes, gentle reader, pride does come before a fall. As a riposte to my smug boasting last week about the utility of a trekking pole in preventing unwanted facial attacks on the ground, a well-placed bramble brier neatly tripped me up and down I went like a felled tree. Fortunately, a large patch of nettles broke my fall and, such was the ubiquity of large pools of deep, gloopy mud I was far from the only person sporting the walker's trophy of slowly drying patches of Wealden clay. However, the far-reaching views to the Greensand ridge, under a bright blue sky, more than made up for it.

    The Tulip Tearooms in Chiddingstone were open, but, for some reason (the known availability of toilets?) we decided to press on to Chiddingstone Castle - where the tearoom was shut. As were the toilets. There was nothing for it but to continue on to Hever station where most, if not all, caught the 16:07 homewards. An excellent day out, with many familiar faces and some new ones.

  • 16-Jan-22

    Still trying to get the china clay off my new Paramo waterproof trousers. Thank god for my 2 walking poles which not only kept me upright all day but guaranteed me a seat on both the train and bus home as it was standing room only. No one spotted the caked on mud. Must remember this in future and recommend it to anyone with mobility issues and a mudfest to deal with.

Sat, 18-May-19 : Cowden to Hever 8
Dirk
Dirk
t=SWC.78

Length: 17km / 10m
Toughness: 4 / 10
Transport: Take the 10:07 from London Bridge, arriving at Cowden at 10:53. Return trains from Hever are at xx.05

This is a very pleasant walk through the High Weald visiting two attractive villages as well as Penshurst Palace, Chiddingstone Castle and Hever Castle along the way.

  • Anonymous
    18-May-19

    8 walkers on a calm warm though mainly cloudy day. This proved a perfect day to do this walk. Conditions were dry underfoot. There were fields of rape in bloom, orchards coming along, a few lingering bluebells, Dryads Saddle mushrooms, plus plenty of wild garlic and birdsong. Twice we were treated to the sight a deer in the distance. The Leicester Arms was hosting a wedding party so after a brief liquid lunch we walked on to tea. Two branched off on a short cut to tea at The Henry VIII and the remaining six stopped for refreshment at excellent Tulip Tree cafe in Chiddingstone then on through the grounds of Chiddingstone Castle, which was having an Open Day). All of us met by chance at Hever station in time for the 16.05. A very nice relaxing day out.

Sun, 21-Oct-18 : Sunday Walk: Cowden to Hever 18
Mr M Tiger
Mr M Tiger
Difficulty 4 out of 10, 16½ km (10.3 miles)
Wend your way through the undulating landscape of the High Weald. Visit remote valleys, woods and tiny settlements. Descend into the beautiful villages of Penshurst and Chiddingstone before finally reaching Hever. Each village has an interesting church, as well as a historic house open to the public. The walk can be shortened by up to 5km (3 miles) but the shortcuts bypass the villages.
Trains
Get the 9:51 East Grinstead train from Victoria (Clapham Jct 9:58, East Croydon 10:09). Change at Oxted onto the 10:38 Uckfield train. Arrive Cowden 10:55.
Return from Hever at xx:07, changing at Hurst Green or Oxted.
Get a return to Cowden.
Lunch
The attractive Rock Inn (01892-870296) in Hoath Corner is an early option.
The suggested lunch place in Penshurst is the Leicester Arms Hotel (01892-871617).
Nearby, just outside the main entrance to Penshurst Place, the Porcupine Pantry (01892-870307) serves light lunches and afternoon teas.
Later in the walk, you have the Castle Inn (01892-870371) at Chiddingstone.
Tea
In Chiddingstone you got The Tulip Tree (01892-871504), behind the Chiddingstone Stores, open to 5pm. You also got the Chiddingstone Castle Tea Room (01892-872746) in the castle grounds (it's accessible without paying).
Last up, you got the King Henry Ⅷ (01732-862457) in Hever village. The station is still 1½ km away and trains are hourly so allow enough time (say, 20-25 minutes).
Optional Features
Penshurst Place is a medieval manor house with an attractive formal garden, admission is £11.50, or £9.50 for the gardens only.
Chiddingstone Castle is a castellated manor house rebuilt in the 19thC, admission is £9.50.
Hever Castle, the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, has spectacular gardens, admission is £17.25, or £14.50 for the gardens only.
Walk directions here
We are doing the Main Walk.
T=swc.78
  • 22-Oct-18

    I counted 18 names at the station roll call and we all set off in fine and sunny wather although this phrase hardly does justice to the beautiful "last of the summer wine" autumnal glow that we enjoyed all day.

    About 6 peeled off to lunch at the Rock in Hoath Corner whilst the rest of us ambled along the gentle trails to Penshurst where most ate outdoors at the Leicester Arms, a couple at the Pantry and a further 2 lunched in a sunny seat in the churchyard.

    After lunch the group fragmented a bit and after a short break at Chiddingstone where a small group detoured for a brief "chiding" at the stone we continued on to Hever wher 6 of us stopped for refreshments at the excellent King Henry V111 whose gardens were packed. It looks a great place for a meal. The final short section back to the station ended a superb day out with lots of anarchic chat; a perfect way to spend a sunny and warm autunmnal Sunday.

Extra Walk 78 – Cowden to Hever (or Circular)
Length: 16½ km (10.3 miles), with longer and shorter options. Toughness: 4/10

09:47 Lewes train from Victoria (Clapham Jct 09:53), changing at East Croydon (arr 10:09, dep 10:15 from Platform 6) for the Uckfield train and arriving Cowden at 10:53. Buy a return to Cowden (Kent).

If it's more convenient you can travel from London Bridge on the 09:34 Three Bridges train (Norwood Jct 09:46), again changing at East Croydon (arr 09:50).

Trains back are hourly at xx:04 from Cowden and xx:09 from Hever, changing at Oxted for Victoria.

This Wealden walk is noted for both mud and bluebells, and it would be nice to find more of the latter than the former. The full version goes through the attractive village of Penshurst for lunch at the Leicester Arms Hotel, but you've also got the option of the Castle Inn in the next village, Chiddingstone (perhaps after taking the short cut bypassing Penshurst). The Castle Inn re-opened a year ago and has had good feedback. Both places are up-market and likely to be busy, but you should be able to squeeze into their gardens (or call in advance to book a table). As it's a Sunday you should be able to wander freely around the grounds of Chiddingstone Castle, which has also got a nice tearoom if you're stopping for a second round of refreshments in this village.

When you get to Hever you can choose between heading for its station or completing a circular walk back to Cowden. There's a pub in the village and another along the route to Cowden, but note that there's nothing very near either station.

You'll need to bring the directions from the Cowden to Hever walk page. T=swc.78
  • Anonymous
    27-Apr-18

    planning to go - anyone else? heavy rain isn't forecast until late afternoon fingers x'ed!

  • Anonymous
    28-Apr-18

    Yes I am planning on going as well so you won't be on your own. Am hoping it will not be too muddy!! Paula

  • Anonymous
    30-Apr-18

    Two walkers met at Victoria. However after the cancellation of two consecutive trains (excuse-faulty train) and in the face of the bitter and unseasonal cold, we took this as an omen and returned home.

  • 30-Apr-18

    As noted above Southern were in truculent mood and did their best to prevent anyone joining this walk from central London. As a result two car drivers met only five off the train at Cowden, though two more resourcefully took a later train to Leigh and met others at the lunch pub in Penshurst. So 9 walkers on a cold damp and gloomy day, but thankfully with no rain to speak of.

    The starters split up in mid-morning with three opting for lunch in Chiddingstone and a circuit back to Cowden. The Penshurst lunchers did much the same length of walk by finishing in Hever. This was not a day for lingering in pub gardens or courtyard tearooms, so there was a reunion on the 4pm train back.

    Anyone hoping that last week's heatwave had dispelled the Wealden mud was soon put right, with gloopy stretches around wobbly stiles and along narrow fenced paths. There were plenty of bluebells in the woods but the judges awarded the Flower of the Day award to the ramsons (wild garlic), with thick carpets around every woodland stream spreading up into bluebell territory.

  • Anonymous
    01-May-18

    I ended up doing this walk on my own as the rail companies managed to cancel my trains so could not find anyone else by the time got there over an hour later than scheduled.

    It was a nice walk but I have to say I found the directions rather difficult to follow - I got lost in the woods - the right fork completely threw me and I ended up climbing up towards a field until I retraced my steps - I would say keep left!! Also at the end I did actually get lost totally at the Hamlet of Hill Hoath where you were meant to vere right but there was a sign saying "private road" on one road on the right and to the left a footpath sign after which I vered right but this took me in completely the wrong direction - in the end found a pub and got rescued but to me it was not at all clear at that point - some more landmarks would have been very useful. Would be a lovely walk on a sunny day!!Paula

  • 01-May-18

    I do not know the details of this walk, but would just like to say that it is not uncommon to find “private road”’signs on a right of way. Ignore such signs. Nearly all rights of way are across private land. The ownership of the land or the views of the land owner are irrelevant. It is a RIGHT of WAY for walkers. This sign was probably directed at car drivers anyway.

Walker
Walker
SWC walk 78 - Cowden to Hever
Length: 16.5km (10.3 miles) with options to lengthen or shorten
Toughness: 4 out of 10

10.08 train from London Bridge (10.23 East Croydon) to Cowden, arriving 10.53

Buy a day return to Cowden

For walk directions click here

There is lots of historical interest on this walk, and plenty of gentle ups and downs, wood and pasture. The walk directions contain two possible short cuts - missing out either Penshurst or Chiddingstone - and a longer option of finishing back at Cowden.

The most obvious lunch stop is the Leicester Arms in Penshurst and you might want to spend the afternoon visiting Penshurst Place with its Elizabethan Garden (used in filming Wolf Hall: bus 231/233 goes from Penshurst to Edenbridge at 17.10 and 18.09: it takes 25 minutes and serves a stop close to Edenbridge Town station, from where your Cowden return is valid to London).

Or you can cut out Penshurst altogether and lunch at the newly reopened Castle Inn in Chiddingstone. Sadly the adjacent Chiddingstone Castle is not open on Saturdays, but on this 13km/8 mile version of the walk you might have time and energy to fit in a visit to wonderful Hever Castle, childhood home of Anne Boleyn, towards the end.

If you have not had lunch at Chiddingstone, the Tulip Tree tea room there is recommended - gorgeous cakes. Otherwise, there is a pub in Hever and one on the Cowden extension too.

Trains back are at 01 past from Cowden, serving Hever at 05 past.
T=3.78
  • Anonymous
    11-Jun-17

    40 on this walk with glorious sunny weather with an occasional breeze making it perfect weather for this walk with open stretches and shady woods.

    Lots of us arrived at the Leicester Arms around the same time and they handled the influx of something like 25 of us with aplomb ( just looked it up to see if it was the right word and it is - self-confidence or assurance, especially when in a demanding situation ), courtesy, enthusiasm, efficiency and friendliness - hats off to the staff and I will pop up a note on trip advisor for them as well.

    One day all pubs will be this good.

    Other than that there is little to report as as far as I know the walk went off without incident ( well much like most of our walks really ).

    Good views, gentle hills and occasional loud voices about recent political developments.

    Swift halves, a glass or two of wine, tea / coffee and cake ( dessert really ) at the Henry VIII about 20 minutes before the station topped off the day nicely for about 20 of us.

    Generalismo Ovaeata

SWC walk 78 - Cowden to Hever
Length: 16.6km (10.3 miles), with possible extension to 19.5km (12.1 miles)
Toughness: 4 out of 10

10.08 train from London Bridge (10.23 East Croydon), to Cowden, arriving 10.53

Buy a day return to Cowden.

For walk directions click here.

The High Weald between Hever and Penshurst has always been popular with the SWC, so much so that we probably visited it too much a couple of years back. A reaction then seems to have set in, because none of the walks has had an airing for some time.

In particular, this variant has not had an outing since October 2014, if our resident statistician is to be believed, and so deserves one now. It takes some familiar building blocks - the villages of Penshurst and Chiddingstone, the attractive Rock Inn in Hoath Corner - and assembles them in a different order.

Since we are still (just about) in the long lazy days of summer, you might even have time to visit one of the attractions on the walk - particularly the Elizabethan mansion of Penshurst Place (Wolf Hall territory), and perhaps, if you do one or both of the shortcuts, Hever Castle, childhood home of Anne Boleyn). (Chiddingstone Castle is annoyingly closed on Saturdays.)

As a walk poster one gets lots of moans - too many long walks, not enough long walks, too many confusing options, winter walks posted in winter, swimming walks posted or not posted etc - but this walk is well designed to please all tastes. The main walk is a reasonable 10.3 miles, and you don't have to decide until near the end of it if you want to do the longer option (12.1 miles) - a circular route back to Cowden. Meanwhile there are two sneaky short cuts on the main walk which save a mile or two and might enable slower walkers to catch up with their speedier comrades.

For details of the various lunch and tea options see the walk document. Travel is by Southern Railways, so let's hope they behave themselves. The train starts from London Bridge, whose new underground concourse is worth a look.

Trains back from Hever are at 05 past the hour (until 22.05): from Cowden they are 01 past the hour.
  • 09-Sep-16

    "winter walks posted in winter"!! This is clearly unacceptable (;>)

  • Anonymous
    09-Sep-16

    What time from clapham?

  • 10-Sep-16

    I agree Pete B - certainly broken my rule

  • 10-Sep-16

    14 on this walk and despite downbeat weather forecast it was cloudy but warm and not wet till 4pm . Nice to be in the Weald again a time of year when the paths are not muddy, but the cloud and fallen leaves make it feel a bit autumnal - decidedly so for the two of us who opted for the longer circular walk in what was by then steady rain.

    Lunch at the Leicester Arms was.....hmm. The staff were friendly but the soup was a disgrace - water laced with oil and vinegar, according to my companion, and no hint of the supposed tomato flavouring. I found the menu choices disappointing and had fish and chips (admittedly nicely cooked) faut de mieux. On the plus side we had the outside terraces to ourselves.

    Three of us stopped for tea at the Chiddingstone tea room. What happened to the rest of you? Having been nagged by my companions into having a vast slab of chocolate fudge cake - truly a giant piece - I am now on a diet for a month. It was in a vain attempt to use up some of the calories from this that I did the longer walk option.

    Southern need to sort out the train indicators at Cowden, which indicated a London Bridge train, only for one going in the opposite direction to pull in at the single platform. Luckily I know north from south. The London train then disappeared from the indicator, with only the one an hour later showing, but did materialise five minutes later. On the plus side this may be the first Southern journey I have taken since May in which neither outward or return train was cancelled or terminated early....

  • 10-Sep-16

    Another four of us left Hever at 3.30 to do the longer walk option, two stopping at Markbeech for a quick half, and we all got the 5.01 train from Cowden station together with a fifth walker from another subgroup. We left three people in the King Henry in Hever. A very nice day out.

  • 10-Sep-16

    I was one of the three in The Henry. 16.05 from Hever after refreshment - delightful